The importance of distributor timing

Discussion in 'Engine' started by Vtec6000, Jan 2, 2014.

  1. chrismc_DC2

    chrismc_DC2 Member

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    For my B18 the stock figure is 16+/- 2degs.

    As such I run it at a smudge under 18degs advance. At this setting it's still within the factory tolerances & feels a bit perkier than the stock 16degs

    No issues with pinking & religiously use VPower so I'm happy it's still a safe setting for a stock motor

    Would never risk going outside factory specs however
     
  2. chrismc_DC2

    chrismc_DC2 Member

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    As the distributor takes its drive off the end of the inlet cam & fully advancing the distributor only nets you 16degs ignition advance it's worth looking at cam timing

    I'm assuming 'cam timing at zero' means the vernier is set at neutral?

    I'd reference the cam specs to get them accurately timed- sounds like the inlet might be overly advanced.

    Some cam manufacturers used to deliberately grind their cams off so that a vernier was necessary to ensure you could dial in neutral cam timing...
     
  3. MadM1ke87

    MadM1ke87 Member

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    Sorry what you don't understand about cam timing set at zero if the cams are not advanced or retarded then it's zero, which mean zero degrees of advance or retard. Never heard anyone say neutral degrees.

    Cam specs don't say anything about intake cam being advanced by grinding distributor slot which is what they must have done.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2017
  4. chrismc_DC2

    chrismc_DC2 Member

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    My point is 'zero' timing on your vernier is not necessarily the correct 'neutral' for the cam itself (neither advanced/retarded) depending on how it has been cut.

    The cam timing sounds like it needs dialling in. There should be a set of figures within the spec that allow you to do that..

    If you google it you should get a rough idea
     
  5. MadM1ke87

    MadM1ke87 Member

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    Tuner 1 cams are designed for stock cam gears.
     
  6. chrismc_DC2

    chrismc_DC2 Member

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    OK- so why do you have a vernier?!

    Only trying to be of help here.

    I'd go back & double check the inlet cam isn't a tooth out at TDC hence throwing out your rotor arm positioning in relation to the distributor body & limiting ignition advance.

    If not then I'd suspect either the cam timing needs 'zeroing' accurately (using the vernier) &/or the slot in the end for the distributor drive is slightly different positionally to OEM inlet cam.

    I wouldn't religiously trust 'works with stock cam gears' to mean it will be spot on...
     
  7. jesse888

    jesse888 Ek9+Turbo+Nurburgring= Heaven Staff Member Donator

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    Ive seen this issue before but cant remember what the issue was. are you using the b16b head and dizzy or is it all b16a?
    I think the issue was a difference in dizzy between b16a and b16b.
     
  8. MadM1ke87

    MadM1ke87 Member

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    I have adjustable cam gears because I didn't have stock ones so just bought after market instead.

    I'm not being funny but all of that has been checked and rechecked was wondering if anyone else had had this problem that's all as there isn't much information about it?
    I think the distributor slot is different to oem. I have some c4 cams that I'm going to try mainly to dull the power down as it's a abit wild:))
    Jesse that's interesting as I'm on B16a engine with b16b dissy didn't think that would matter?
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2017
  9. jesse888

    jesse888 Ek9+Turbo+Nurburgring= Heaven Staff Member Donator

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    I thought the exact same as you did originally but this fella kept telling me no its not right. He said he timed up a broken b16a dizzy and it would set up midway, a type R one would leave him right at the end of his adjustment.
     
  10. jesse888

    jesse888 Ek9+Turbo+Nurburgring= Heaven Staff Member Donator

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    I imagine the rotor arm must sit afew degrees off between the b16a and b16b dizzy. So the shaft being the different part here. Im not sure why or even 100% that its true but its something for you atleast.
     

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