Stem Seals


Ek9185

Ek9185

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Joined
Jun 30, 2010
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176
Well lads, so i have recently put a decat in the teg and since i have done that, it has been throwing out a slight bit of smoke, it's not that bad, i have often seen worse.. So basically i am wondering what i could do before it gets any worse....?

I have heard that doing the stem seals will stop this, so if i do decide to do them, i am just wondering is there anything else that i could do while the head is off to help and also, is there much work involved in doing this...?
 
May as well change the head gasket while the head is off...and a new timing belt/chain depending what engine you have
 
its a b18, Integra dc2, Well i will be doing the timing belt anyways for sure.. So just wondering performance wise, or to stop the car smoking would there be anything else that could be done bar the stem seals...?
 
Do you know what colour smoke it is?

Gray=overfuelling
Blue=burning oil
White=water
 
kellsled said:
it could also be piston rings mate
Click to expand...

Would they be a big job or would they be just handy to do while the head is off...?

ek9ctr said:
Do you know what colour smoke it is?

Gray=overfuelling
Blue=burning oil
White=water
Click to expand...

Well i haven't really seen it myself but i am told it is just slightly blue when in vtec, i know the difference with the different types... It's not taking a load a oil though at the same time. It's serviced every 6000 kms, not topping up oil otherwise...
 
That's fair. It could be piston rings. For that you'll need to remove the sump to get to the crank and undo the big end(?) bearings or each con rod and then push the pistons out the top off the block (of course the head will need to be off). Then its a matter of wiggling the old rings off the pistons and wriggling the new ones on again. Then you'll have to find a way of compressing the rings whilst pushing the pistons back in to the block (obviously con rod first) all the way till the con rods meet the crank (new bearing shells would be advisable here). Then do up the big end bearings up to Tue correct torque setting.

Sounds a lot easier than it is tbh. Once again though I'd change the head gasket whilst the head is off :nice:
 
ek9ctr said:
That's fair. It could be piston rings. For that you'll need to remove the sump to get to the crank and undo the big end(?) bearings or each con rod and then push the pistons out the top off the block (of course the head will need to be off). Then its a matter of wiggling the old rings off the pistons and wriggling the new ones on again. Then you'll have to find a way of compressing the rings whilst pushing the pistons back in to the block (obviously con rod first) all the way till the con rods meet the crank (new bearing shells would be advisable here). Then do up the big end bearings up to Tue correct torque setting.

Sounds a lot easier than it is tbh. Once again though I'd change the head gasket whilst the head is off :nice:
Click to expand...

Jaysus i wouldn't say that sounds easy by any means, does sound like there is serious work involved..! would there really be need in doing the head or would it be a case of being just as well doing it....?

Also does anyone have any experience in doing these before, would it def help if the seals and rings were done...?:nice::nice:
 
I have a basic experience (but that's through work). I think that before you go stripping the engine down to change the rings, a compression and leak down test should be carried out. I have no idea personally how to do that (although knowing me it'll be quite easy).

I'm only suggesting changing the head gasket as whilst the head is off it'll be al lot easier to do than taking the head off, doing whatever needs doing and then putting it back on again just to take it off later on down the line when/if the head gasket fails...kinda like if someone is changing a gearbox, it makes sense to change the clutch whilst its off as you'll just have to take it all off again.

But anyway...back on to subject. Firstly get the checks done, then depending on the results, change either the stem seals or the rings (or both if you like).

Sorry to ramble on lol. Hope that helps :nice:
 
Dont forget to rule out the PCV first !!

Then leakdown , then dry/wet compression test :)
 
Ek9185 said:
Would they be a big job or would they be just handy to do while the head is off!?
Click to expand...

i wouldnt do the seals without doing the rings just in case, i changes both on my car at the one time recently
 
ek9ctr said:
I have a basic experience (but that's through work). I think that before you go stripping the engine down to change the rings, a compression and leak down test should be carried out. I have no idea personally how to do that (although knowing me it'll be quite easy).

I'm only suggesting changing the head gasket as whilst the head is off it'll be al lot easier to do than taking the head off, doing whatever needs doing and then putting it back on again just to take it off later on down the line when/if the head gasket fails...kinda like if someone is changing a gearbox, it makes sense to change the clutch whilst its off as you'll just have to take it all off again.

But anyway...back on to subject. Firstly get the checks done, then depending on the results, change either the stem seals or the rings (or both if you like).

Sorry to ramble on lol. Hope that helps :nice:
Click to expand...

No hassle man, would rather know all the relevant stuff to do while it's off anyways so cheers for that!!:nice:

Darragh_K said:
Dont forget to rule out the PCV first !!

Then leakdown , then dry/wet compression test :)
Click to expand...

Right, whats the PCV.........?

DOSvtec said:
i wouldnt do the seals without doing the rings just in case, i changes both on my car at the one time recently
Click to expand...

Sound out man, did you notice a change in yours afterwards.......?

Cheers for all the responses lads, appreciate it..:nice::nice:
 
ek9ctr said:
That's fair. It could be piston rings. For that you'll need to remove the sump to get to the crank and undo the big end(?) bearings or each con rod and then push the pistons out the top off the block (of course the head will need to be off). Then its a matter of wiggling the old rings off the pistons and wriggling the new ones on again. Then you'll have to find a way of compressing the rings whilst pushing the pistons back in to the block (obviously con rod first) all the way till the con rods meet the crank (new bearing shells would be advisable here). Then do up the big end bearings up to Tue correct torque setting.

Sounds a lot easier than it is tbh. Once again though I'd change the head gasket whilst the head is off :nice:
Click to expand...

I was told the rings were an engine out job as the crank needed to be removed? Can it definitely be done with the block in place?
 
Kozy said:
I was told the rings were an engine out job as the crank needed to be removed? Can it definitely be done with the block in place?
Click to expand...

yeah...sounds scary to do it this way, talk about awkward position to be building an engine.
 
Wouldn't you also want to do a mild hone if you were fitting new rings (and the bore's are in tolerance of course)?
 
To do piston rings proper there is no chance you can do it with the engine in situ

Something missed above is the valve guides, these can wear with age and cause excessive oil use! Worth having these checked and replaced when necessary if the head is off
 
You can do it with the engine in situ but its very awkward. And the crank doesn't have to come out...just undo the conrods from the crank and they'll just "simply" push out the top of the block
 
A good way to check if it is the stem seals is-

Get the car up to temp, get on a long stright & build up the revs to 7500-8000rpm, let off & let the revs come down with engine speed (this will create a vacume) once the revs get down to about 6000rpm stamp your foot back on the pedal.
If you get a plume of blue smoke out the exhaust then your stem seals are on there way out or could be the valve guides too!
(worth changing both at the same time IMO)

If it smokes all the time (right through the revs) then it is more than likely your piston rings!

Also as mentioned check the PCV!

I would defo not like to replace piston rings while the engine is still in the car TBH!
If your going to "rebuild" an engine i would defo be removing it first!:secret:
 
if its not burning oil, why rebuild at all? :s
 
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