Skunk2 or Buddy Club


DB8 TYPER

Active Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Messages
428
In need of some advice guys on engine build please, looking for more of reliability, am looking at two setups from Skunk2 or Buddy Club

Skunk2 (not sure which ones to go for Pro or Turner)
Stage2 Turner or pro cam shafts
valve springs Turner or pro
Ferrea S/S retainers
Exhaust/intake valves S/S
CP or JE 81.5mm 12:1 Piston Set
Jun conrods
LMAs

Buddy Club setup
Stage2 Turner or pro cam shafts
Valve springs
Ferrea S/S retainers
Exhaust/intake valves
CP or JE 81.5mm 12:1 Piston Set
Jun conrods
LMAs

Which setup would you prefer
Don't want noting to lumpy on idle more to stranded idle
 
ive stage 2 pros running a basic road map, similar compression and they idle for the most part fine, cold starts can be tricky but keeping the trottle in for a few seconds does the trick.
they are however not dialled in yet.
hope this helps somewhat
 
He spoke about reliability...

And after all seeing is setup list cp pistons and jun conrods are not cheap parts.
 
I see.. you have a good point. They both are far more reliable.
 
Thanks for the reply's, I've decided to go for Skunk2 Turner setup or is it worth going for pro, will also look at Toda setup.

And is it worth changing Intake/exhaust valves if so standard or High compression valves or just keep OEM valves B18c ITR

Last of all where's the best place to buy the parts even if it's from the states

Thanks
 
Thanks for the reply's, I've decided to go for Skunk2 Turner setup or is it worth going for pro, will also look at Toda setup.

And is it worth changing Intake/exhaust valves if so standard or High compression valves or just keep OEM valves B18c ITR

Last of all where's the best place to buy the parts even if it's from the states

Thanks

defo go for the pro series
 
its not worth it, its required.
Edit..sorry, thinking retainers and springs...valves are not nessary to change, but worth it.
 
pro it is then

Would it be worth replacing Intake and Exhaust valves standard or high comp

Not really but its always nice to have a matching set of valve train. Make sure you inspect the valve keepers !!! I'd recommend a new set of oem.

BTW, those high comp valves hardly make any difference to the compression ratio.
 
+ they just add weight

depends what valves they are too, some of them are poor quality and can break at the tip which of course is less than ideal
 
Not really but its always nice to have a matching set of valve train. Make sure you inspect the valve keepers !!! I'd recommend a new set of oem.

BTW, those high comp valves hardly make any difference to the compression ratio.

Yep will be replacing them too, BluePrint Valve Guides, BluePrint Valve Keepers and new style LMAs
 
+ they just add weight

depends what valves they are too, some of them are poor quality and can break at the tip which of course is less than ideal

Am looking at Skunk2 or Blueprint intake/exhaust valves going for Stock Size Stock Compression, any other's you recommend
 
Last edited:
tuner 3's would be more great for your setup from what i seen on many dyno sessions pro2 likes bigger displacement and the tuner's will yield great mid - high and can retain great idle characteristics compared to pro's which are a pain to dial in at idle just my 0.2cents
 
tuner 3's would be more great for your setup from what i seen on many dyno sessions pro2 likes bigger displacement and the tuner's will yield great mid - high and can retain great idle characteristics compared to pro's which are a pain to dial in at idle just my 0.2cents

spot on. rep'ed
 
spot on. rep'ed

Yes tuners cams would work better if is going to be a D.D, if it is a track car go with bisimoto stage 3 with low comp pistons with a spoon or toda headgasket to make the comp go higher to 11.1 make good power.
 
Back
Top