Just make sure you have racing brake fluid and track pads at least as Kirkistown is very hard on the brakes like most tracks... standard pads and fluid will be useless after a lap and potentially very dangerous
Semi slick tyres will also be a big help on the track and night and day difference between them and even fast road tyres
Cheers for heads up mate
Il have to have a serious think and decide what am for doing. March won't be long in comeing
Yep, just because of nitrous..2 bloody good engines as well :-( . The first was shortly after this :
I think it was the 330ftlb that it didn't like (187k k20 standard internals)
The second was only on a 50 shot.
The problem is that nitrous is a fickle mistress, and if you're running quite a bit it can be disastrous.
I had my bottle in the centre like you but further back in the car. It was an ep3, do it was bolted where the rear seat would be to allow the hose to bend as little as possible.
I put a very similar filter with that length of piping on my old EK9 just to see how it went and we proved on the track that it killed the cars acceleration
I then switched to an enclosed DC2 mugen style airbox and tested again and the difference against the same car on the track was approx 6-8 car lengths to 100mph so it was night and day difference
I have used open cone filters after this but with a proper CAI setup where the filter is located behind the front bumper.. the intake pipe length seems to be very important as well as the temperature of the air around the filter. With proper tuning.... an open cone may be better with the right size of intake pipe and a velocity stack/filter combo but I always found that B-series engines with a standard map responded better to a good airbox setup
So just make a box around cone?Always box it in like Logan has done.