Papa Smurf Build


Just make sure you have racing brake fluid and track pads at least as Kirkistown is very hard on the brakes like most tracks... standard pads and fluid will be useless after a lap and potentially very dangerous

Semi slick tyres will also be a big help on the track and night and day difference between them and even fast road tyres

Cheers for heads up mate

Il have to have a serious think and decide what am for doing. March won't be long in comeing
 
Yep, just because of nitrous..2 bloody good engines as well :-( . The first was shortly after this :

I think it was the 330ftlb that it didn't like (187k k20 standard internals) :)

The second was only on a 50 shot.

The problem is that nitrous is a fickle mistress, and if you're running quite a bit it can be disastrous.

I had my bottle in the centre like you but further back in the car. It was an ep3, do it was bolted where the rear seat would be to allow the hose to bend as little as possible.
 
Cheers for heads up mate

Il have to have a serious think and decide what am for doing. March won't be long in comeing



If you haven't started prepping your car for a trackday then March doesn't give you much time unless you have all the parts and you are working away at it

You can go out in a standard car but in my opinion you will not have an enjoyable experience.

Making the car handle and brake properly is the most important part so i would start there.... get good plain discs Brembo blanks are ideal, RBF600 brake fluid, Ferodo DS2500 pads and that will be a good start for the brakes

A half decent set of mid range coilovers will help, Meister-R, BC are decent without spending mega money. Get your height and aligment set properly and play with damping on the day to get a good balanced car

Safety is another very important aspect, if its going to be a regular track car then a half cage at least or a full cage. A proper bucket seat and harness will also help a lot



The above are the foundations of a good fast road/track car and then you can look at other areas to improve on over time when all that is sorted.
 
Yep, just because of nitrous..2 bloody good engines as well :-( . The first was shortly after this :

I think it was the 330ftlb that it didn't like (187k k20 standard internals) :)

The second was only on a 50 shot.

The problem is that nitrous is a fickle mistress, and if you're running quite a bit it can be disastrous.

I had my bottle in the centre like you but further back in the car. It was an ep3, do it was bolted where the rear seat would be to allow the hose to bend as little as possible.

Very odd looking graph, power peaks and drops off rather fast, was it mapped or were you just spraying nitrous on the stock ecu? When the engine failed what exactly failed?
 
That was on kpro.

That was using an extremely sophisticated progressive controller as well. The gas was brought in just prior to vtec, and then ramped at 20%intervals over 1.5 seconds to full. If I remember correctly that was on a 150 shot(car N/A was 255).

That was part of the issue, bringing the gas in subtle enough not to cause damage. It wasn't too bad on say a 50 shot because obviously the progressive start point was only about a 15shot(ish). As soon as it started ramping up even with timing adjustments the initial shock load was quite severe.

Even on a 100shot it was quite aggressive even when done progressively


I think there was an issue on the run I posted previously which is why it drops off so quickly, this is a more relevant picture of the testing we did.


The fault on the first was rings and rods. The second was rings.
After that I had the second engine forged with some extremely high quality parts, and also built with a 10k rev limit. The problem was that I had so little faith in gas after my issues, that after running 100shot into it I crapped myself and called it quits.

As an aside as to the performance of nitrous on the 1/4
NA 13.9
100shot 12.9
And to put that into further context on the same track in my k20 ek9 I ran 13.1
 
Last edited:
With a progressive controller your chances of keeping the engine together should have been greatly improved! We've ran 150shot with no controller on a stock k20. The 100+ ftlb's torque rise in the space of 200rpm had me a little nervous!
 
I'd love to try a shot of nitrous one day.
Not in my civic but I'd happily strap it too my mx5 for a laugh.
 
So went to get my wheels camber/toe/alignment set and it's was way off. Here is the chart that I got of it
image.jpg

The guy set the front alignment but the back bolts where all stuck. So I took it to my local garage and he freed up the bolts. I am ordering front and rear camber adjuster kits. And adjustable toe kit. Then il get it back to be set.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rvm
Started my induction kit today to see where to put pipes etc for when a put b18 in. I Have long arm pipe down to behind light with cone filter and I have a pipe from the whole in below filter that will go to bumper here are a few pics of it just tied on. In process of cutting whole in front bumper atm so more pics of that later. Il also be making a light duct when I get another driver side light. Excuse the rust it will all get a fresh coat of paint when engine is
image.jpg

image.jpg


image.jpg
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    932.7 KB · Views: 447
  • Like
Reactions: rvm
I put a very similar filter with that length of piping on my old EK9 just to see how it went and we proved on the track that it killed the cars acceleration

I then switched to an enclosed DC2 mugen style airbox and tested again and the difference against the same car on the track was approx 6-8 car lengths to 100mph so it was night and day difference

I have used open cone filters after this but with a proper CAI setup where the filter is located behind the front bumper.. the intake pipe length seems to be very important as well as the temperature of the air around the filter. With proper tuning.... an open cone may be better with the right size of intake pipe and a velocity stack/filter combo but I always found that B-series engines with a standard map responded better to a good airbox setup
 
I put a very similar filter with that length of piping on my old EK9 just to see how it went and we proved on the track that it killed the cars acceleration

I then switched to an enclosed DC2 mugen style airbox and tested again and the difference against the same car on the track was approx 6-8 car lengths to 100mph so it was night and day difference

I have used open cone filters after this but with a proper CAI setup where the filter is located behind the front bumper.. the intake pipe length seems to be very important as well as the temperature of the air around the filter. With proper tuning.... an open cone may be better with the right size of intake pipe and a velocity stack/filter combo but I always found that B-series engines with a standard map responded better to a good airbox setup

Same as this enclosed fiter with good air getting to it is way better :nice:
 
Built back up again and a bit of black mesh behind the whole. Will do for now until I get bumper painted then il tidy it up. Took it a scoot and it doesn't seem any different maybe noise a wee bit lol Might go for a mugen rep one heard good things about them. Anyway couple pics
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: rvm
@LoganK
Check out logans build thread for pictures etc but basically yeah. Like an enclosure to keep the hot air away from the filter.
 


As you can see I boxed mine in. Will be wrapping the box in gold reflective heat tape and I also have a headlight intake :)

Looks sweet I Must get a box made up. Did you notice any difference?

I haven't took it a proper drive yet but from just a wee scoot it feels much the same as before
 
Back
Top