EK4 or EG6 chassis in handling
- Thread starter George89
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The EK chassis is quite a bit stiffer, but heavier.
If you're going to race it, I would go with the EG hath or sedan (which has a great structure as well because of the added B pillars, while still being lighter than the EK) because the EG's are lighter and with enough added support, can be just as stiff overall.
Really though, I've seen all types of honda layouts win championships. If it's set up and driven right, that seems to make all the difference. It could be a CRX or EK or DC sedan, both have been winning chassis when set up correctly.
Make it as stiff and as light as possible, taking weight out from all over the car and THEN adding ballast to the floorpan as needed according to the rules.
This makes sense because lets say your EG can only be 2200lbs or more per your class rules. If you could make that weight by getting a lightweight battery and removing your passenger seats, most people would stop there.
However the best thing to do would be to remove all unnecessary weight from the car by removing the interior panels and pieces, CF hood, lightweight mirrors, trunk latch removal, Plexiglass windows, ect and get down to say 2000 lbs. So now you're underweight and need to add back that 200lbs in the form of ballast to the floorpan, which is putting the weight lower than before. Just like that, and within rules, you've lowered the vehicles center of gravity for less weight transfer and better performance in every aspect.
If you're going to race it, I would go with the EG hath or sedan (which has a great structure as well because of the added B pillars, while still being lighter than the EK) because the EG's are lighter and with enough added support, can be just as stiff overall.
Really though, I've seen all types of honda layouts win championships. If it's set up and driven right, that seems to make all the difference. It could be a CRX or EK or DC sedan, both have been winning chassis when set up correctly.
Make it as stiff and as light as possible, taking weight out from all over the car and THEN adding ballast to the floorpan as needed according to the rules.
This makes sense because lets say your EG can only be 2200lbs or more per your class rules. If you could make that weight by getting a lightweight battery and removing your passenger seats, most people would stop there.
However the best thing to do would be to remove all unnecessary weight from the car by removing the interior panels and pieces, CF hood, lightweight mirrors, trunk latch removal, Plexiglass windows, ect and get down to say 2000 lbs. So now you're underweight and need to add back that 200lbs in the form of ballast to the floorpan, which is putting the weight lower than before. Just like that, and within rules, you've lowered the vehicles center of gravity for less weight transfer and better performance in every aspect.
saxophonias
Member
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- Nov 28, 2008
- Messages
- 981
Great! Since it is going to be a race car you don't really care about factory chassis strength as you can reinforce the chassis on your own.
from my own experience, the ek will oversteer more readily than an eg, but were not talking much here, just an inclination verses the eg.
the ek is stiffer out the box, but if your building this car up, you will find that you can make the chassais of either car more than stiff enough.
id personally pick an eg i think, but im biased cos thats what i have.
the ek is stiffer out the box, but if your building this car up, you will find that you can make the chassais of either car more than stiff enough.
id personally pick an eg i think, but im biased cos thats what i have.
shooter mcgavan
98 ek9
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- Sep 12, 2008
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- 1,150
use an ef civic or crx lighter again. tuning place in ireland have the crx and its untouchable