Boost with oem rods


HornetSting said:
Is it worth the risk, thats one question. Ive got a book somewhere that says the crank in the B16 is good for approx 700hp, so not sure if the rods etc can deal with anything like that. Honda are known for over engineering things, but I guess it comes down to can you afford to change them or not and possibly break something, how you will feel if it does go bang. Remember any chain is only as strong as the weakest link. If I was doing that kind of work and putting that money in, I think I would just get the strengthened parts too. If a jobs worth doing then do it well.
Click to expand...

those are very wise words. i think in my opinion if i was to boost i would like to see what results i could get from stock internals but i think ultimately i would want to get stronger internals. It is definitely better to be safe than sorry. Still, i have read that people have boostednwith stock internals so fair play to them.

I would like to see what a banana con rod looks like though....just not on a 9....maybe a renault or peugeot or something.
 
I ran a b16a2 with p30 pistons last year on about 12 lbs of boost.
Stock rods, may I add.

The only time I actually blew it up was when I mis-shifted into a lower gear while at 8k+
full boost. Going in from 3rd to second. Boy did that suck. My compression numbers
were beyond off spec.

After the detonation, The exhaust resonance was similar to that of a WRX. Lol.
 
JDMirza said:
I ran a b16a2 with p30 pistons last year on about 12 lbs of boost.
Stock rods, may I add.

The only time I actually blew it up was when I mis-shifted into a lower gear while at 8k+
full boost. Going in from 3rd to second. Boy did that suck. My compression numbers
were beyond off spec.

After the detonation, The exhaust resonance was similar to that of a WRX. Lol.
Click to expand...

Ouch! I bet you were gutted. Did you have the stock crank too and what kind of figures were you getting from it?
 
Lolol, you bet!

I did run the stock b16 crank.

In the end, there has not been a single scorch on the journals or signs of bearing failure,
the bearings were all good.

No damage done to the blocks main bore, nor the saddles or caps regarding the rods.

However, multiple chunks were coming off the pistons dome.
This explained the compression issue I had before the tear down.

I can get pictures later on to illustrate you this chaos.

I highly suggest going aftermarket without a doubt.

Boy was it fun though.
 
Yeah pictures sounds good. :)

I just had a thought...do people stroke and then turbo?
 
Stroking creates more torque but is weaker due to the longer rods that you get in the stroker set. I'd probably just swap out to an LS Crank, and play around with the numbers
on zealsautoworks B series calculator finding your R/S Ratio.

I personally never did it, but a lot of people are doing High Comp builds on Honda-Tech
with a an almost perfect flat torque curve on E85.
 
What is a LS crank?

I thought that the b16b engine was a b18c5 but uses the same crank as a b16a or something. So is it then possible to change the bits on a b16b so it is then a b18c5 and then turbo it if that makes sense?

Would that be easier than doing a b18 swap?
 
danger_day said:
What is a LS crank?

I thought that the b16b engine was a b18c5 but uses the same crank as a b16a or something. So is it then possible to change the bits on a b16b so it is then a b18c5 and then turbo it if that makes sense?

Would that be easier than doing a b18 swap?
Click to expand...

LS crank comes out of a b18b1, and has a 89mm stroke.

The b16b shares the same block as the GSR/ITR(B18c1/B18c5.)
The stroke is different on the b16 than the LS, making the b16b crank a 77.4mm
 
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