blue smoke


synthetic oils are much more reactive than semi synths meaning that they can over time have adverse effects on things such as internal oil seals, this is the mistake some people make, they think they can run fully synth oils as long as mineral and semi synth and this is what causes seals to perish and oil consumption, do not assume that because you pay more for your oil that it must be better than what honda (who know the polymer compounds they use for their oil seals) will recommend.

(not to rant or anything) HA!
 
alEKs said:
synthetic oils are much more reactive than semi synths meaning that they can over time have adverse effects on things such as internal oil seals, this is the mistake some people make, they think they can run fully synth oils as long as mineral and semi synth and this is what causes seals to perish and oil consumption, do not assume that because you pay more for your oil that it must be better than what honda (who know the polymer compounds they use for their oil seals) will recommend.

(not to rant or anything) HA!
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That is an interesting concept and I do not doubt that you are correct but where did you get your knowledge on this subject from?
 
im hoping that the 10w-40 is goin to be permanant if it gets the point where it starts smoking again it will be gettin rebuilt.
As for warming it up i always let it warm up for a good few minutes before driving and then let the oil temp get up to around 160-170f before it goes above 4500rpm iv had this engine for the last 6 years and its been well looked after but has always since iv owned it had full synthetic oil in it and its always burned a little oil which i thought is the norm for these when there driven hard. It uses none when i keep it below vtec.

My thoughts are that this engine when new would have had semi synthetic in it and would have been worn according to the level of protection that that semi synthetic offered (assuming oil was changed regularly and engine not abused), and by now using full synthetic a more compact structure smaller molecules and slippiness (all the pros for using it), its getting past the worn rings seals etc, and by adding the prolong designed to add to this anti wear slippiness the oil has been getting left on the cylinder walls and burnt. Im hoping by going back to the semi synthetic the oil will not be allowed through the rings and seals as much its seems to be working at the minute but i guess time will tell.
 
I used a few different oils on my B16a2 engine

I tried Castrol edge sport 5w 30 fully synthetic i believe and that was the worst - it burned it up real quick ! (no blue smoke tho it just seemed to dissapear)

Tried a 5w-40 and a 0w40 (diff brands) fully synthetic to the same results but not no where near as bad as the castrol. (again no blue smoke but burned it up with heavy vtec abuse)

Then i used a 10w 40 semi synthetic im pretty sure it was fuchs or silkolene or somethin and it was great - literally no oil consumption...


.. also used in my B18C and was grreat too.


10W 40 Semi Synthetic is the perfect oil in my book - to be honest its a personal preference because of my experiences with both VTEC engines - some people are having different results, its baffling but im sticking to what i know which in this case has also helped the OP
 
screamdavtec said:
im hoping that the 10w-40 is goin to be permanant if it gets the point where it starts smoking again it will be gettin rebuilt.
As for warming it up i always let it warm up for a good few minutes before driving and then let the oil temp get up to around 160-170f before it goes above 4500rpm iv had this engine for the last 6 years and its been well looked after but has always since iv owned it had full synthetic oil in it and its always burned a little oil which i thought is the norm for these when there driven hard. It uses none when i keep it below vtec.

My thoughts are that this engine when new would have had semi synthetic in it and would have been worn according to the level of protection that that semi synthetic offered (assuming oil was changed regularly and engine not abused), and by now using full synthetic a more compact structure smaller molecules and slippiness (all the pros for using it), its getting past the worn rings seals etc, and by adding the prolong designed to add to this anti wear slippiness the oil has been getting left on the cylinder walls and burnt. Im hoping by going back to the semi synthetic the oil will not be allowed through the rings and seals as much its seems to be working at the minute but i guess time will tell.
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Synthetic oil does not have "Smaller" molecules then semi synthetic, it just has more consistently sized molecules then semi synth, meaning that most of the molecules in synth are nearly of equal size, this is part of what lowers the coefficient of friction of the oil (makes it more slippery). Plus wear is not determined by the size of the molecules in the oil you are using, I think engines like these will use some oil but if its at the point where your getting blue smoke under engine load at all RPMs then you obviously have a problem that simple changing oil cannot fix.

I use 10W-40 magnetec in my b16b and so did the previous owner, the car has done 82,000 miles and i check my oil at every stop at the petrol station, i have next to no oil consumption, especial when driven sensibly.

But alot of this is all down to personal preference and experience as mentioned and i am not here to challenge any1s opinions, just here to share my thoughts based on what ive learned and experienced.
 
SPek9 said:
That is an interesting concept and I do not doubt that you are correct but where did you get your knowledge on this subject from?
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Ive been a race technician for 4 years now and im a 2nd year motorsport engineering student, so id say my knowledge is based on practical experience of engine building as well thorough and mind numbing study of oil pathways and fluid dynamics as part of my uni course.

I knew it would all come in handy some day :clap:
 
Thats good to know, and I base the choice of oil for my car on what works and what has been recommended. I was always under the impression that fully-syn was always the best oil for these engines, but it is good to know that a 10w40 semi will do the job just as well if not better. Gets expensive paying for high end synthetic oils every few thousand miles!!
 
yup, like Mr Spoon says, dont worry bout fancy oils just keep the changes regular :win:
 
alEKs said:
Ive been a race technician for 4 years now and im a 2nd year motorsport engineering student, so id say my knowledge is based on practical experience of engine building as well thorough and mind numbing study of oil pathways and fluid dynamics as part of my uni course.

I knew it would all come in handy some day :clap:
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Ace!
 
alEKs said:
Ive been a race technician for 4 years now and im a 2nd year motorsport engineering student, so id say my knowledge is based on practical experience of engine building as well thorough and mind numbing study of oil pathways and fluid dynamics as part of my uni course.

I knew it would all come in handy some day :clap:
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Cool, its great to have you here ! I maybe picking your brain sometime in the future if you don't mind.
 
good info there i hope theres not a problem and the engine just diddnt like the oil and additive mix. Just hope iv not caused a problem by puttin it in and hopefully the blue smoke stays away.
@alEKs do u think the additive (it was prolong anti friction modifier) could possibly have caused this episode of smokin
 
without looking into what was really in the bottle i couldn't say, but i cant imagine you have caused any detrimental damage to your engine at all, especially if you flushed it through with new oil after the initial change
 
yeah it was flushed through i think its ok its not smokin anymore and all is well so im happy again
 
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