Best Cams For Stroker Kit


Haribo1187

... H20 RBO ...
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May 4, 2007
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Hey Guys...

Just wondering what would be the best cam for my Ek9 with Spoon Stroker fitted - It will be used for daily drive and track action - mainly quater mile..

Would also like to fit ITB's in future aswell, what cams would suit the standard TB and ITB's ???

These cams would have to perform well with the b18c6 block...

Cheers - Andy
 
PCT = Standard EK9 pistons. :)
You'll be having 12 compression ratio with those, using standard gaskets and without head and block milled which is great for those cams.
 
How much did your stroker kit cost without fitting?
 
I would suggest you use Blox B or Skunk stage 2 cams, because both of these will retain "stock " idle and give an amazing vtec charge, if properly tuned. I wouldn't suggest the BCIV cams because they have very large primary lobes which will give you more midrange but at the sacifice of idle. The BCIV,Skunk stage2, and Blox B cams all share the same Vtec lobe. Hope this helps. Oh, the skunk stage 2 and Blox B's work well with compression from 11:1 and up, whereas the BCIV needs at least 12:1 to make noticeable power. Compressions of 12:1 and higher is not good for a pump motor.
 
Compressions of 12:1 and higher is not good for a pump motor.

that all depends what fuel you have access too, i live in ca and pump gas is 91octane, but i know other states in my country have 93octane and some even 94 :angry: why do i have to be stuck with 91 :angry2:
 
I would suggest you use Blox B or Skunk stage 2 cams, because both of these will retain "stock " idle and give an amazing vtec charge, if properly tuned. I wouldn't suggest the BCIV cams because they have very large primary lobes which will give you more midrange but at the sacifice of idle. The BCIV,Skunk stage2, and Blox B cams all share the same Vtec lobe. Hope this helps. Oh, the skunk stage 2 and Blox B's work well with compression from 11:1 and up, whereas the BCIV needs at least 12:1 to make noticeable power. Compressions of 12:1 and higher is not good for a pump motor.
It would be a good idea to be more clear when saying "stock" idle because this might be confusing...........:D At least for S2 stage 2 you NEED to upgrade valvesprings & retainers without discussion! :nono:
 
id suggest upgraded valvetraing for almost any cam just to be safe...
 
Ohh rite thnx for help guys !!!

Would I not be best putting the brand new 1.8 pistons in ??? I have got the 81.25 ones and re-bore my block..

Or rather keep my standard 1.6 ones ???

Cheers - Andy
 
Ohh rite thnx for help guys !!!

Would I not be best putting the brand new 1.8 pistons in ??? I have got the 81.25 ones and re-bore my block..

Or rather keep my standard 1.6 ones ???

Cheers - Andy

You can use your 1.6 ones, but your compression ratio will be increased to 12+ , that it's not recommended for a daily drive, you have a chance to blow your motor if you have a detonation because of a low octane fuel.

You made the right choice for a daily drive, as for the camshafts, I prefer TODA SPEC B, since they give the best torque, but skunk pro stage2 is a great option also, toda spec b is just my personal "taste" :win:
 
Ahh ok.. I would prefer using the 1.8 pistons anyhows as they brand new - So what compression ration would I need to run the skunk2 stage2's efficiently ??? I beleive the stroker kit gives me 11.3:1..

Cheers - Andy
 
Ohh we also have V Power Fuel in our stations in uk.. They sell 98 octane fuel.

Cheers - Andy
 
your stock pistons wont work since you ordered the 81.25 kit, but with the spoon kit i believe your cr will be about 11.2:1 if you want it higher you can use 81.25mm ek9 pistons and then your cr will be like 12.4:1 its up to you... rvm is right with such high cr if using the ek9 pistons your motor will be under a lot more stress...
 
think about your tuner before thinking about parts. :nice:
 
Cheers guys..

Well I am having a shop to rebuild my engine, the place is called AGRA Engineering and have built some amazingly powerful engines - the owner is around 60 years old and has been racing and building formula 3000 engines for 25 years.

I think i will just stick to the 1.8 pistons, if more compression is needed I will get either head work or block work. What compression do I need roughly to run these cams to their full potential ???

I am also having CPL Racing to tune my car, using a Hondata system with Defi warning systems - CPL are the record holders for fastest honda in Europe - 10.6 @ 137 mph - Front Wheel Drive.

Cheers For All Ur Help Guys

Andy
 
Cheers guys..

Well I am having a shop to rebuild my engine, the place is called AGRA Engineering and have built some amazingly powerful engines - the owner is around 60 years old and has been racing and building formula 3000 engines for 25 years.

I think i will just stick to the 1.8 pistons, if more compression is needed I will get either head work or block work. What compression do I need roughly to run these cams to their full potential ???

I am also having CPL Racing to tune my car, using a Hondata system with Defi warning systems - CPL are the record holders for fastest honda in Europe - 10.6 @ 137 mph - Front Wheel Drive.

Cheers For All Ur Help Guys

Andy


Sounds good!

You need minimum 12.5CR to separate a good difference and value for money between Toda A and B. Anything above is best for these cams.

With 12CR, you'll find that Toda As will still make more power than B on the 1.8L. go to the thread 'Stroking to 1.8 with toda parts' in engine section. Theres an old link with the tried, tested and reasons explained between toda A and B.

I'm opting to go for Toda As because of my CR. Not only that, it's less headache for errors and gives a nice bump up in power tuned or untuned. Can get about 10whp after install on a B16B. I'll be using Toda valve springs for max lift and cam gears together. Hopefully within the next 3-6months.

I've also heard that Toda B and C's have a lot of lift, and you may get valve float after some time. Even heard that Toda valve springs aint up to the task either for spec B and C. Just keep an eye out on valve float. Big damages can occur.

Anyway, thats just my 50cents. It'll be pretty cool to see how yours turn out.:nice:
 
Cheers for the input m8... Hmm is 12.5 not abit high ?? My car will be a daily drive so dont really wanna put it in too much danger - Are the toda and skunk2 simialr ??? Could I run the cams with 11.3:1 ??

Cheers - Andy
 
Well, for your plans and parts selection, it sounds it's going to be a pretty worked up motor. If your driving it on the streets as daily driver then geez, you'll be buying another car later... lol Many guys who owned worked up hondas always tend to sell it off later and buy a normal car as they had enough of that hardcore feeling. But if you've got 2 cars, it is fine.

Some guy locally put Toda B into his DC2 ITR and said it's so **** under 3000rpm, worse than stock, and doesn't go anywhere. Thats because theres a lot of lift and duration with Toda B. You get overlapping and valve float on low rpms. Of course this can be adjusted on the can gears but to a limit.

Most times anything above stg 1 cams will take out drivability in lower revs. Honda already made a racing engine for the road, so your basically shifting the power to the upper end of the revs. But Skunk stg2 seems to have same or simliar low and mid range as stock but with a manic top end, this might give more drivabilty and full on top end. I didn't want to get these for reliability reasons as they have high lifts and durations that would require a lot of attention to your valve springs, retainers etc. Good power, but more maintainance.

Buddyclubs Spec3+ cams sit right in the middle of Toda A and B. These are a new cam and so many worked rides here locally are happy with it. These suit a wider range of compression ratios from 10-13CR. I was going to get these but price threw me off. And I'll need to do more work than Toda A like retainers etc etc.

So I'm just showing you that different cams gives different drivabilities. Depends what its for and what you want. Skunk stg2 or buddyclubs seems to fit your intentions more I presume. But hey, if you've got the cash, buy and try different cams and see for yourself. :nice:

I'll stick to my Toda A and spend money tuning it to perfection as it requires less work and problems. Also gives me enough bump up in power to make a nice car to drive on the weekend comfortably without any worries or concerns. Oh, this cam gives stock idle, as well as skunkstg2 and buddyclub spec3+(more tuning). Toda B has rough idle and will start running smoother after 3000rpm because of the high durations.

As CR rises, tuning becomes harder(as blinx said), and don't worry, 12CR is nothing compared to a local DC2 ITR in sydney thats running 15+CR on race gas. lol, thats what you call shitty drivability, but when it's running up, the experience of a highly tuned N/A motor is something special. The owner of that car has another DC2 ITR thats turbocharged for the street as daily driver.

I think you need more than 98octane to run 12CR+. 100RON would be safer and keep your revs lower like no more than 9000rpm. Tuning gets tough up there and detonation is knocking on the door. But yes, you need more compression to make real use of toda B, Thats probally why Skunk stg2 makes more top end than toda B with lower CR.

Oh, as for tuner, a few years back when I didn't know much about cars, I had a bmw that I wanted to tune, I had bought some cams for it and the guy recommended me to a guy who tunes porsches to do the install. This porsche guy had a 800hp twin turbo 911 and many experinces, I thought I was in safe hands.
During the install, they had trouble with bmw's Vanos technology and difficulties arised. installation of just cams delayed for another day and half.
When I got the car back and drove off, there was noise, strange rattling sound at high cam switch point. Took it back to BMW dealers for the mechanics to do a re-install and they found stuff like missing clips, loose bits, found a missing part that fell on the undercaraige etc.. finaly got it installed correctly.. damn cost me 2 installs for that.
I'm not saying your tuner hasn't enough experience etc etc, What I'm saying is, make sure your tuners have experiences with Honda engines as every engine is different and require different skills, techniques etc. You can't always base 1 method from another engine and use it on a honda, thats just stupid.

Hope this helps, as it's somethings I learnt before and recently.
 
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