aem cold air intake or short ram?


eby5838

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Mar 15, 2008
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hi guys im thinking about buying a aem induction kit in the near future but was wondering if anyone out there has had any experience on which one performs better on a ek9,the cold air intake or the short ram?? im guessing that the short ram fits alot like the j's racing kit (induction cone situated where the oem airbox came off) and im also guessing that the cold air intake kit having a longer pipe is designed so that the induction cone sits in the wheel arch where the resonator box is situated? if i had to hazard a guess then i would say that the cold air intake kit would perform better because of the colder air coming in straight through the bumper rather than the warmer air in the engine bay but i know that different kits work better on different cars so has anyone got any knowledge on this subject?
 
search the threads. Theyres heaps of info here. Also check out the stickys :nice:
 
ignore this post about which aem filter to go for because i have been advised by people in the know that they are a waste of time on a EK9 as they are designed for a 1.6 vti 158bhp and the EK9 as you all know is 185bhp so i payed out the extra to purchase the very highly regarded itg maxogen carbon cold air intake that gives a approximate dyno proven 8bhp increase:win:
 
I wouldn't believe the 8bhp increase for a second

I would second that statement! :nice: Although that ITG kit is just like the mugen because its a foam cone filter inclosed in a sealed carbonfibre box, Looks a very good underated kit wouldn't mind one myself but £350 is just to much for something that might gain u 3 to 5 horsepower max! Rant over.:D
 
ignore this post about which aem filter to go for because i have been advised by people in the know that they are a waste of time on a EK9 as they are designed for a 1.6 vti 158bhp and the EK9 as you all know is 185bhp so i payed out the extra to purchase the very highly regarded itg maxogen carbon cold air intake that gives a approximate dyno proven 8bhp increase:win:

i was wondering why would this AEM filter dont really suit an EK9. Are you referring to the AEM CAI or just the filter itself? from what I heard, there shouldn't be a problem using AEM CAI it on 9 where the placement of air intake is about the same and i think it should make a good gain on the 9 too
 
the aem cai you should get is the hybrid. it was designed for the ek with a b18 engine transplant. & believe me you wont regret it!! i didn't! you can feel the power increase & the engine note is pure heaven!! :D
 
i wouldnt believe this either especially out an air filter
sorry i was slightly out,proven gains of 7.1bhp/9.2lb's of torque,check the tokyo express website,don't think that dunc would make up **** on his website and break the trade description act.
 
man intakes will never give you that much power from a small capacity engine. 2-3hp is very likely but never more than 5hp on a 1.6L.
 
that's a real blanket statement first of all. What kind of 1.6L motor here? SOHC? DOHC? VTEC or non?

Either way, the quote 2-3whp may be peak gains, but that's not where most people drive or necessarily want the power anyway. Because dyno testing is so relatively expensive in the UK and perhaps elsewhere in the world (it's $500.00 USD for ONE hour here in HK!)

Many are still stuck with off the shelf intakes. The chief reason why AEM is good is not only due to the fact it pulls cooler air, but has a long intake tract. The resonance from that tube is responsible for a mild supercharging effect. Tuners in the US are now tuning intakes by varying the length of the intake tube TO SUIT YOUR PARTICULAR SETUP.

In short, the AEM does work for the EK9 if you use the ITR application which is a 3.0inch setup. I believe their Hybrid version is also 3.0inch but I have never seen one and have easily adapted my ITR AEM to a 6th gen 18C swap.

FWIW, I picked up nearly 10whp/10trq on a dynojet back in 1998 and it's one of the reasons why I still have my AEM 10 years later.

The only losses I saw were below 3000rpm on my 18C. I lost the original graph years ago, but the reason why the gains shown on this one are even larger is because I fitted a de-cat.
 

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1.8l? hey man thats cheating! lol
Also did you noticed your first run had air temps of 10 degrees difference to your other runs?


1.8 does benefit much more from mods than the B16B, Its like Honda squeezed out a lot of juice already.

And they benefit from a slightly larger TB whereas the B16 doesnt. Anyway, cold air is the most important
 
Also did you noticed your first run had air temps of 10 degrees difference to your other runs?

1.8 does benefit much more from mods than the B16B, Its like Honda squeezed out a lot of juice already.

And they benefit from a slightly larger TB whereas the B16 doesnt. Anyway, cold air is the most important

The 10 degree difference is taken into account by the dyno correction factor. If this was the actual graph, the numbers would be higher but these are SAE corrected figures. Would it be absolutely 100% indicative? No, but it is must closer.

When the ITR was first released, everybody stated pretty much the same thing about how it's so highly strung from the factory anyway that you can't possible get much more out of it. But here it is, there's evidence to support that the 16B can get just as much since the OEM intake itself is not as efficient as it could be.

The larger TB is another point of debate. I'm sure Honda would have outfitted the 16B with a larger TB if they felt it would show an increase of velocity as as well as volume. I'm sure it would help, but the bean counters probably got to the engineers at the end of the day.

And no, cold air isn't the most important. I'm not saying that it's NOT important at all, but a tuned intake length is more important as well as how it ingests the air. Velocity stacks and tuned length go hand in hand and then a cold air feed is the crowning bit.
 
The 10 degree difference is taken into account by the dyno correction factor. If this was the actual graph, the numbers would be higher but these are SAE corrected figures. Would it be absolutely 100% indicative? No, but it is must closer.

When the ITR was first released, everybody stated pretty much the same thing about how it's so highly strung from the factory anyway that you can't possible get much more out of it. But here it is, there's evidence to support that the 16B can get just as much since the OEM intake itself is not as efficient as it could be.

The larger TB is another point of debate. I'm sure Honda would have outfitted the 16B with a larger TB if they felt it would show an increase of velocity as as well as volume. I'm sure it would help, but the bean counters probably got to the engineers at the end of the day.

And no, cold air isn't the most important. I'm not saying that it's NOT important at all, but a tuned intake length is more important as well as how it ingests the air. Velocity stacks and tuned length go hand in hand and then a cold air feed is the crowning bit.

One things for sure is the B18 response much better to mods than the B16.

That video with the velocity stack you posted last time was pretty good, shows what can be achieved, but I think if it was dynoed with the bonnet closed, it would have been a different story. Velocity stack is going 1 step up but temperature is like 2 steps down. Hot air expands and Oxygen molecules are less per volume, so the engine is chewing up less oxygen. But anyway, I think we are talking about the same thing. lol

I've read some Japan tuning mags that B16 with cams shouldnt use any larger than 62mm TB. B18 on the other hand can use 68mm. It just response way better on the B18.

A local B16A did gain an extra 5whp installing a J's intake. But ofcourse, that was with other stuff like headers and exhuast installed.
 
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