99 Civic EK4 Turbo


ÃrniVTI

New Member
Joined
May 13, 2012
Messages
20
Hi
some of you seen this thread that my friend did
http://www.ek9.org/forum/members-rides/17721-my-ek4-turbo.html

but i bought the car in 2012 with a wrecked engine
i changed out the crankshaft, bearings and got the car tuned again, drove it 20.000km or so and whent best 13.4 on that setup, stock b16 and a ebay turbo kit,

wanted more power so i after the turbo went out i bought a Holset hx40 and got the car tuned again with 1000cc RC injectors and with a stock motor running 18.8psi of boost the car went 12.4@119mph 1/4 mile,

after changing the injectors back to 650cc and running low boost the engine burned a piston so i decided to build the engine and here is info about that

The car Looked like this before,
civic2-4.jpg


Here is the setup now
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Exterior
Mugen Front lip
Type-r Grill
Type-r Rear lip
Black headlights
55mm lowering springs
American Racing wheels

Interior
RallyArt seats
MOMO Stearingwheel
Skunk2 Shortshifter
Zeitronix LCD Display with Wideband, Boost and EGT
Autogauge Oil Temp and Oil pressure
EDM ITR Cluster that shows 260kmh and 10k RPM

Engine:
Supertech Blockguard
CP 9.0:1 Pistons
Manley H-Beam Rods
ACL Bearings
ARP Headstudds
Cometic Gaskets
OEM B16 Crankshaft
OEM ITR Oil Pump

Head:
Cometic top gasket set
GSC Dual valvesprings and titanium retainers
GSV T1 Turbo cams 288/276
OEM Timingbelt and tensioner
Vented valvecover and custom catch can setup
Edelbrock Victor X Intake with Hondata Gasket
1200cc RC injectors
AEM FuelRail
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Misc:
Holset HX40 60mm Compressor wheel
2.5" IC pipes and a huge FMIC
XSPower Blow OFF and wastegate
3bar Map sensor
Hondata s300 - BoostByGear - Antilag Lunch Control - Flatshift
Walbro 255
CNC motor mounts
Stage 4 springless clutch
Insane Shaft 500hp Axles
TegiwaImports Radiator
B16 Gearbox with OEM ITR Helcial LSD

1507323_10151861329668137_865861133_o.jpg



The build:
943029_10151809736753137_242597609_n.jpg


1379706_10151814243413137_114693656_n.jpg


1460048_10151824545988137_1605497880_n.jpg


1468815_10151864939173137_1008493330_a.jpg


hope you enjoy :D
 
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Came back strong, good lad! :win:

p.s glad you de-chaved it
 
I'm so glad that car is now looking not like on the first photo :) Do you have any dyno chart? HX40 should 'wakes up' in B16 much after VTEC what would be for my quite high range..
 
Wow that block guard looks epic, any more info on it ? Looks expensive lol
 
I wouldn't bother using a block guard, especially those off the shelf ones which aren't a 100% fit like a CNC machined to fit block guard. Your engine is going to run hotter also with that fitted.
 
I wouldn't bother using a block guard, especially those off the shelf ones which aren't a 100% fit like a CNC machined to fit block guard. Your engine is going to run hotter also with that fitted.

That's not true, not a single overheating issue :D this is not close as good as sleeves or css but this doeas it's job when you are on a budget :D next thing i will do is order a block from CNC Werx

Wow that block guard looks epic, any more info on it ? Looks expensive lol

just a supertech blockguard and it's not that expensive it's under a 100$

I'm so glad that car is now looking not like on the first photo :) Do you have any dyno chart? HX40 should 'wakes up' in B16 much after VTEC what would be for my quite high range..

yeah i love the power of the HX40 but here in iceland there isn't a dyno that can hold above 350-400hp so no dyno chart, this car is just road tuned

Came back strong, good lad! :win:

p.s glad you de-chaved it

Thanks :D

Really nice colour lad :nice: stands out :bow:

Thanks i love the color, it shines even if it dirty :)

Is that pirates black paint job ? Looks like the purpley tint refecting.

It's Lamborghini Deep Black Metallic, nothing purple in it but the light in the garage makes it look like that :D
 
That's not true, not a single overheating issue :D

I don't post info for the heck of it. Only last year we removed the head off a turbo b18 and pulled the block guard out of it as it kept running way too hot. Guess what? Ran a lot cooler without it in. That block guard is going to do little in terms of cylinder support. There a waste of money IMO.

Good luck with your build.
 
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I don't post info for the heck of it. Only last year we removed the head off a turbo b18 and pulled the block guard out of it as it kept running way too hot. Guess what? Ran a lot cooler without it in. That block guard is going to do little in terms of cylinder support. There a waste of money IMO.

Good luck with your build.

They are never a waste of money, they do an okay job of keeping the cylenders round, like i said they are wortless compered to sleeves or css but there are known cases of cars running hot but in my case there isn't a problem with it also on my friends mx125cc here on the forum zero issues and he also has a fully built motor even with an eagle crank
1176316_657648140912033_524819905_n.jpg


this is his car, he even has the stock ratiator with a slim fan,

if the car is running hot just use racing cool or something like that to prevent heatspots, there are alot of proven cases that support that the blockguards prevents cylender walking so there is less chance og cracking
 
I think you will find the general consensus is that they are a waste of money. Go look on HT, must be a 100+ threads on block guards. The CSS guard is good yes as the fitment is as close to perfect that you will get, depending of course of how well your machine shop does the install.

We tried cooling additives to no success. Removing the block guard proved successful.

What kind of power are you aiming for?
 
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for the moment just getting the car driving :p but i want to try 2.5bar/36psi or close to that and i'm not sure what HP number that is with the HX40

but just running the car over 22psi i'm happy this will be a street car, i just want to go low 10's :D
 
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