Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


irf said:
Was your pressure consistent mid corner bud?
Click to expand...

Tbh I didn't get a chance to look at it mid corner, was trying to survive lol
Coming into the pits with the oil at 100c saw just over 20psi oil pressure on idle. From engines I've run before that's pretty normal.
 
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So pulled the filter today.
Doesn't look that great lol


Black particles mainly, gritty to the touch but soon break down with gentle rubbing between fingers. Seem to disappear after rubbing them enough.
So this is a new issue I've not seen before(joy)
Wondering if it's old oil that's been washed off with the heat of the trackday?
Or the cheap oil I had in there breaking down?
Or it's just ******....
Going to replace filter and oil and see what happens with it. In the mean time I'll build the forged block up with a new head on it and if the c4 does die. I'll have the forged block ready to drop in.

If anyone knows what they see here then please share.
 
Could be just crap in the block from previous use.
Also I would get it mapped asap or you will start washing the bores with petrol if you are down in the 10s afr. Im surprised it wasn't miss firing TBH.
How is the suspension setup the now? Adding splitters etc is just going to mask the problem or make it worse.
 
Murray said:
Could be just crap in the block from previous use.
Also I would get it mapped asap or you will start washing the bores with petrol if you are down in the 10s afr. Im surprised it wasn't miss firing TBH.
How is the suspension setup the now? Adding splitters etc is just going to mask the problem or make it worse.
Click to expand...

Was thinking could be coked up oil from the turbos heat?, this is cheap oil.

It was weird, at first it pulled really well(coming out of the pits) then it seemed to just die and ran like it was on low boost except the AFRs.
AFRs where normal on low boost all day.
I do think it's the geometry giving me issues, was thinking to pull the toe back to 0 and go another half degree - camber.
I need to do abit of research on this tbh.
I feel that it was better last time round than this time. I don't recall having so much understeer last time. Only alittle mainly on exit.
 
Just dropped the oil.
Not as much metal on the plug as I'd have thought tbh.
Certainly not as much as the forged build when that was on track.
Still silver when squeezed through the fingers.
Going to carry on running it and see how it goes.

So the metal is still being made in the c4 block though it's not as bad....
 
If its just breaking up in your hands and not sticking to the plug, Then I would agree with the above. Could be a bit gunk in the oil. I would change the oil now mate.
Did you flush the engine couple of times with cheap stuff when it went in ?
 
I put the engine in(checked previous oil was good just old)
Ran it with some synthetic gulf 10-40 for 60miles. Noticed lots of metal etc in the filter AND the oil.
So put new filter and cheap motor factors 10-40 in.
Ran that at brands(tried to keep temp down best as pos) just dropped the oil and the metal is nowhere near as bad as before. Hardly any glitter in it tbh.
Just the filter oil looks bad with the black particles in.
So to conclude, two oil changes in 240miles. Half of which at brands but with an imposed Rev limit of around 8k instead of the full 8800.

The first 60miles(good oil) was street driving revving all the way to 8800rpm.
So I'm now thinking that it's the rpm killing something in there. Doesn't make sense with the forged blocks though because the 2nd one was run in miles and it made a lot of metal on the plug and ruined a pump so....
 
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Nice one man love seein track day vids where ppl can actually drive she goes fair well in the corners nice drivin :nice:

Also seen as you keep checking the block and oil and turbo an filter obviously just to be safe. An then rebuilding the engine incase it will blow.

Would you not just get it mapped an drive it till it does blow? Seen as you replace with new anyway?

The fact that its a b series engine it probably wont blow anyway or at least not for a year or two with very hard driving once its maintained with good oil an left to warm up an cool down.

Not tellin you what to do im just curious haha :))
 
Problem with that is soon as the pressure does go, it blows.
The pump was losing pressure after 1k on the first build. So give it afew more miles and it would make a right mess of some real expensive parts.
Atleast this way I'm saving the expensive parts and not waiting around for it to fail.

Because it's a critical component it's abit different, not like say it's smoking abit or just sounds abit rough.
 
If I can fix this boost problem(assume it's not map related) then I'll go out again with the c4 and really give it.
 
Ah i assumed there was a reason thanks for clarifying.

Best of luck anyway man :beer:
 
If the rpm is a possible theory that shouldn't be too hard to test, just don't go past 8k for a while and see if the same issues reappear. If not maybe a map that's limited to 8k rather than 8800rpm?

I know you'd you lose that top end but if the rpm is the issue then fingers crossed you'll have the more reliability and still quite a bit of grunt that may even be safe on higher boost?

Also I'm no expert but the oil to me looks like old oil rather than the new stuff, I know it was cheap and took a batttering but still shouldn't have given up that soon?
 
The rpm theory only really applies to this c4 bottom end, the forged one was still on run in miles and I hadn't gone above 6-6.5k with that.
The c4 doesn't make the same oil pressure as my forged blocks have, it only makes around 70psi max. I was always under the impression you should have 10psi pressure for each 1000 rpm you spin. So by limiting the revs abit I was wondering if it would keep the engine alive alittle longer. Not sure if this pressure is normal but I've mentioned it afew times and no one has said its not right....
 
Aeroplane wifi is pretty cool!
even 38000 ft can't keep me off the forum!
 
Completely forgot you weren't on the forged bottom end. And I haven't got a clue about where oil pressures should be regards to rpm. All I know is what it should look like and where it goes haha.

Didn't even know there was plane wifi now.
 
Yeah this is the first time I've been on a flight with it.
God send really lol
Norwegian air is the operator for future reference.

I was under the impression that all bseries vtec had the same pump, b18c4 being a vtec engine I would of expected 90psi of pressure by like 5k rpm. I can Rev this thing right round and barely catch 70.

Was wondering today if harmonics is the issue then hopefully upgraded pump gears like the Toda ones might be abit more resilient than the oem Honda ones. Not really the way I'd like it done as it's more of a patch than a fix but if it works then it works right...
 
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