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I have a 98' EJ6 chassis and removed the factory D16Y7 and installed a B16B, factory p/s lines mated directly to the factory pump off of the B16B. As far as p/s pump part numbers you got me there, but stock factory lines will work.

Start by checking to see if there are any CEL's or MIL's on. I had a similar issue cracked my head for days to realize that it was an issue with the ECM. You can also check the ignition switch. Honda had a recall on certain year Civic's with bad ignition switches. Hope that by now you've found...

I'm looking to buy an aftermarket exhaust for a 2013 CBR500R I just picked up and some replacement parts for my B16B and was wondering if anyone stationed in Japan is willing to pick up locally and ship to the US?

Still for sale?

I reread your initial post to this thread and reminded me of a time when I was driving long distance and the whole car mainly the electrical devices all shut off the engine stalled all within a second but just as quickly came back on. I had no clue what had happened so I pressed on. I later...

Are you getting and CEL/MIL codes?

You should go with OEM spec regardless of what nuts you're going with as you don't want to stretch the threading on the wheel studs by over torquing. Now if you have aftermarket wheel studs such as ARP etc then go with recommended trq settings per application.

Its posted as an F20C. Custom mounts and wiring is eventually what it comes down to, not an impossible swap obviously.

Seen a custom AWD Integra done by Honda Tuning Magazine some years back using CR-V drivetrain and a stock LS motor. The AWD however was not 4wd true and the rears would engage only when the fronts would slip. A good read altogether.

OK the one on the IM I have but I was referring to the #23 IAT sensor from the attachment image. I know the USA B16A2 comes with both a #23 sensor at the intake arm and the IM...was wondering if by some chance my engine retarding ignition timing was because I had missed a sensor on my CTR...

Does the B16B come equipped with this sensor...?

Is it drivable? If using this diagnosing technique is confusing to you then try driving to a local auto parts store for a OBD code scan. This doesn't always immediately locate the problem but can surely point you in the right direction. What symptoms does your car have btw?

These sensors have very stringent torque specs. Over tightening can give off false readings to the sensor/ECM running the risk of false readings producing inaccurate timing adjustments. Do it right and think of it this way, with the IM off you'll have the opportunity to install a Hondata IM...

Hey man welcome to the site. I'm actually somewhat near Houston down in Laredo Tx. I used to travel to Houston quite often so I don't see it as being far. Enjoy.

Donot rock 3 oem mounts, this will leave the engine with excessive play. Seen a B16 EJ drag launch on this setup and the valve cover dented the hood. Not a good idea on oem mounts.

If you're o2 sensor is located prior to the catalytic converter then removing the emissions part will not get you a CEL/MIL. If you have a secondary o2 sensor after the cat then yes you will need to mod the exhaust with a CEL eliminator.

Well there you go. Cheers.

The 4-2-1 header I rock came with the B16B I purchased from JHPUSA.com, all it has is a JASMA emissions stamp welded to it. Resembles the Spoon Sports piece a whole lot but whoever had it previously mated this 4-2 piece to that of an oem cast iron 2-1 end which probably explains the longer...

I used 100" or 30.48 meters and it wasn't enough for my 4-2-1. Here's a thread which some of us added our stories and ideas on the matter. >>>Click me.<<<

HAMP decreases the length of their filters over Honda stock for increased oil pressure, increasing the length should do the opposite. Also have read that securing a clamp around the mid filter will help prevent bloating of the filter. The S2000 filter will fit on the D/B/H series.