Temp Question for boosted people


jesse888

jesse888

Ek9+Turbo+Nurburgring= Heaven
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Sitting here wondering what sort of oil temp you turbo guys are getting on track?
Get a lot of people on here hitting 110-120c without a turbo cooking up under the bonnet.
Obviously more boost is more heat so I'd like to know the power aswell, more interested in the low boost answers really. Around 250-270hp?

Then I'd like to know what you've done to try and tackle the temps?
Oil coolers?
Larger rad?
Exhaust wrap?
 
Back in March i peaked at 110 degrees out on track. That was after a good 15mins of abuse. The outside ambient temp was 3 degrees.
My car runs a b16 at a bar of pressure and 250whp.I use a 13row oil cooler and a mocal thermo plate. The downpipe is wrapped. And i run a half size alloy rad that has some water wetter stuff.

Murray
 
Thanks for the info mate
Anything else you'd do to lower the temp?
How's traction at 250whp?
 
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Heat reflective tape on the sump, doubt you'd notice the difference though.
Could run a larger oil cooler maybe?
I believe you can't fit a full length rad with most turbo set ups either?
110degrees isn't too bad anyway, :)
 
Nah 110 is pretty good considering. I'd still want it lower though lol
Surely its possible to get a turbo setup with a full length rad? With a tiny turbo to reach 250hp.
 
jesse888 said:
Nah 110 is pretty good considering. I'd still want it lower though lol
Surely its possible to get a turbo setup with a full length rad? With a tiny turbo to reach 250hp.
Click to expand...

Yep, have a look on GO-AUTOWORKS.com, they have a few kits available. Make sure you state what kind of racing you will be doing. Obviously with a "tiny turbo" you don't want it to choke-out at the top of the powerband. I think you're just after something small and responsive that will pick-up like an NA setup.

You'll be needing a well placed oil cooler though regardless...
 
Nothing set In stone I just woke up with abit of an "itch" maybe next spring if I'm still itching!
I understand how boost applies much more stress to parts you wouldn't expect, and I still want a reliable track car.
Have a 13row cooler in the garage with mocal thermostat, dc2 radiator, hondata s300, 255lph fuel pump. Rc310. So was wondering where the cost for me was going to be. Just going to be turbo and getting it mounted with lines etc?
Injectors maybe abit small but I wouldn't want a lot of power, I've been there and broke lots of parts before lol

Your right I wouldn't want to stray to far from how power is applied ATM, I like the linear progression on track, just after more grunt and don't want to be taking engines out or apart.
 
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Had a look on the go autoworks website, decent prices considering.
No water lines for the turbo? Surely only being oil cooled will tax the oil cooling system?
 
jesse888 said:
Thanks for the info mate
Anything else you'd do to lower the temp?
How's traction at 250whp?
Click to expand...

I did have heat reflective material glued to the sump, but it eventually fell off with the heat.
Itl get hot no matter what, the crx has a smaller engine bay than the civics so you could fit a full size rad in no problem. So that would help.
My turbo doesnt have the water lines connected either. Never seen any ill effects.

Murray
 
jesse888 said:
Had a look on the go autoworks website, decent prices considering.
No water lines for the turbo? Surely only being oil cooled will tax the oil cooling system?
Click to expand...

Just had a look through this thread and thought I'd mention
firstly the turbo being water cooled will rocket your water temps with boost so you need to think about that I know on some race Honda's people run small rads after water return of turbo personally I'd just stick to an oil cooled turbo for your power goals it'd be less hassle and just as reliable
secondly in the b series turbo Honda's if you use a full length rad you restrict the natural air flow cooling the turbo manifold and all hot bits there and as well as that your adding an ally rad holding your water really close to the turbo setup which would also heat up your water considerably may even cancel out the benefits of using a full width rad
 
Will keep this in mind.
Im ready to start installing the turbo now, I've got a koyo half rad ATM so will see how that goes. My turbo is only oil cooled anyway and I went for the go autoworks street kit in the end.
 
19 Row Oil Cooler
A good intercooler, not just a big one
A good full size rad
A manifold with longer preliminaries
High temp water hoes
Strong fans with manual in car switch
A good bonnet vents which is designed correctly to create high pressure above the bonnet to draw low pressure under bonnet air out.

Trying to remember all the stuff i did haha.
 
I'm also build a turbo setup for my EK4 VTi which will see trackdays.

I went for a Full-Race road race turbo kit with GT28rs.

I will use oil and water to cool the turbo. I have already installed an All in fab tucked radiator and would be using a setrab 25 row oilcooler. This setup will see trackdays in July.



 
Where did you get the radiator from?
 
tharshan said:
I'm also build a turbo setup for my EK4 VTi which will see trackdays.

I went for a Full-Race road race turbo kit with GT28rs.

I will use oil and water to cool the turbo. I have already installed an All in fab tucked radiator and would be using a setrab 25 row oilcooler. This setup will see trackdays in July.



Click to expand...

Wish I could fit my turbo that way round lol
 
jesse888 said:
Nothing set In stone I just woke up with abit of an "itch" maybe next spring if I'm still itching!
I understand how boost applies much more stress to parts you wouldn't expect, and I still want a reliable track car.
Have a 13row cooler in the garage with mocal thermostat, dc2 radiator, hondata s300, 255lph fuel pump. Rc310. So was wondering where the cost for me was going to be. Just going to be turbo and getting it mounted with lines etc?
Injectors maybe abit small but I wouldn't want a lot of power, I've been there and broke lots of parts before lol

Your right I wouldn't want to stray to far from how power is applied ATM, I like the linear progression on track, just after more grunt and don't want to be taking engines out or apart.
Click to expand...

Googled ek9 bonnet vents and this little quote comes up!
Oh the irony!

On topic I was thinking of getting some focus rs style louvres and cutting into my carbon bonnet. Engine bay gets hot so thinking this may be a cheap solution
 
Mine peaked at 115 degrees c running 300 @ fly with 25row oil cooler, extended moroso sump and half length rad.

This was on the hottest day of the year though and i think it could be improved alot by venting the oil cooler properly.
 
Yeah mine was alittle hotter running the 19 row but at a lower power level. Was revving it though. They say it's the revs that causes the heat so...
 
I was looking at vented bonnets to try and keep things a bit cooler. I think the C west style ones look ideal with the position of the vent, but I dont wanna pay new price for one lol
Kind of like the positioning of the vents on an evo right above where all the turbo setup is
 
Yeah I'm not paying for a new bonnet, mines carbon already just been painted CW. Thinking cut the vents in the right places and it should work.
Even just a hole will work when it's not moving(I.e traffic or on the back of a breakdown truck)
Might go for it and see what happens. Worst case I end up with a silly looking bonnet lol
 
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