when you say alot of info contradicts itself, its more down to pretty much ever bodyshop/panel beater/painter has their own technique/process so prep and paint parts/vehicles
i've been a panel beater/painter for around 10 years, and every bodyshop i have worked in prepped vehicles in a different way than the others and then again myself i have a different process
Agreed 100%. There are a lot of ways to get a result. I don`t believe that there is a right and wrong way, depending on the situation we adapt accordingly.
thats why we need a sub forum.. nice bit of info there!!
id like to see
types of paint - i still dont know why we have water based/cfc based spray
prep work - techniques, what tools work best, and what not to do
priming - what primers work best for what material
spraying - i find this easy but some may not, spraying tips and tricks??
preserving - what laquers to use and how much etc etc
fibreglassing - how to use it, i found it really easy its just getting the mixtures of resin/catalyst right so it doesnt go hard in 2minits (she said)
bodywork - preping, tools to use etc
just a idea
I can answer you the above.
Types of paint: environmental legislation obligates paint companies to create environment friendly products. Most car factories use water based paints since 1995 and back.
prep work: all techniques have the same basis:sanding before anything else. then the sand paper grades varies mainly. there aren`t tools that work better, but what suits each individual.
primers more or less are the same. There are some categories though. filler, epoxy, surfacer. epoxy primers are not commonly used in body shops, since they are to be used on naked metal, before any other primer.
fibreglass: there is a huge variety out there, depending on the quality of your materials you get easier to manipulate mixture.
as for bodywork these are very deep waters for an amateur. Experience can`t be passed on through a pc screen. Sure i can tell you how to prep the surface, apply the putty, sand it, but there is a lot more to it. Make it flat, keep it small and don`t expand it etc.
Today i took some shots at work repairing a bumper. this lady came in, in a hurry cause she f**cked up her husbands car and wanted it done within the next two hours without him knowing anything. following is the procedure:
Took the sander and using a p240 roughened the area. Cleaned the surface with a high pressure air gun and then applied the putty using two 12cm spatulas. to speed up the hardening i used a thermal pistol. Again with the sander and the p240 sanded down the patty until it was level with the rest of the bumper. I use my palm and fingers stroking from side to side of the repair looking for either bumps or dents and continue accordingly. When i`m satisfied with the result, (always with my sander) take a p320 to smoothen the surface more and remove the deeper p240 lines. Again clean the surface of dust. mask the and started priming with a can primer. Now remember, i had to make it fast. so spray is the fastest way, because 90% is thinner which evaporates rapidly, opposite to 2K primers that hardener is used as well, plus the hustle of mixing and using a spray gun. If i did that i`d have to use IR lamps to bake it (15-20 minutes delay). 3-4 coats and using a thermal gun again, reduces my flash off times to half a minute approx. Let the whole thing cool down for 3-4 minutes, then using a p800 or p1000 wet i sand down the primed area. clean it well with a wettex , blow away water remains, mask and into the booth we go.