power of b20 hybrid


civicspoon

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Aug 20, 2007
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Dear friend,

i'm considering taking a B20 block with b16b head(hybrid) But i'm sceptical, is it practical to go to work with this engine. my car is ej9 body. how's the fuel consumthion? is it close as the b16a? please advice me???????
 
the b20 cant handle high revs in stock trim, so your gonna have to upgrade it if you expect to rev any higher than 7500, fuel consumption is dependent on driving style.
 
the b20 cant handle high revs in stock trim, so your gonna have to upgrade it if you expect to rev any higher than 7500, fuel consumption is dependent on driving style.
if compare with b16b, which one is better????in terms of power, fuel consumption, reliablity, fun to drive. please advice me....
 
if compare with b16b, which one is better????in terms of power, fuel consumption, reliablity, fun to drive. please advice me....
B16B is better in terms of fuel consumpion, reliability and IMO more fun to drive as you feel THE KICK!! :lol: Power is not its forte :(
 
B16B is better in terms of fuel consumpion, reliability and IMO more fun to drive as you feel THE KICK!! :lol: Power is not its forte :(
i agree. want to feel that kick, but i think saving fuel is more important. if your rich thats different story.
 
if your rich thats different story.
If I was rich then I wouldn't need the Type R's kick, I would definitely go for an F430 but I need to find $240,000.00 to do that. :angry2: $ferrari.jpg$205.jpg $F430_gray-3.jpg
 
I was pretty interested in this build so I did some research. Turns out it will cost quite a lot to build a proper B20B capable of 8000rpms reliably.

You'll need to buy aftermarket pistons, as with the stock pistons you'll be running about 9.0 compression which is way too low.

The bolts on the B20 block are weak and not meant for high rpm applications. Using ARP conrod bolts and headstuds will help avoid bolt stretch, which causes the bearings to move, and which in turn causes vibrations and cracked sleeves.

Sleeves are not as strong, durability is questionable. Re-sleeving is an option but you can do the same with the B16B block to achieve the same displacement. Can be quite costly.

Aside from the aforementioned issues, you may also need to change the water and oil pump depending on which of the B20 blocks you buy (there are 2 versions... dont remember the code). Also drill a new oil path at the engine head.

You should get ARP conrod bolts and headstuds for a B20 build at the very least. At best, change the conrods as well.

Leaving money out of the equation, the ultimate build IMO would be a 84mm bore 2.2L Stroker kit (available from Brian Crower) on a resleeved B16B block.
 
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