Paint blend/flattening/age'ing/correction proces after painting ?what your technique?


pearse9000rpm

pearse9000rpm

ek9
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Paint flattening/age'ing process after painting ?what your technique?

just wondering what best process after your newly painted panels etc

just to remove small orange peel and small imperfections or dust or foreign bodies

to blend/flattening/age'ing/correction process your finished cured
2k paint or metallic/pearesent with 2pk clearcoat paint

i tend to rub down with wet and dry p1500 then p2000 both with water

then machine compound 2-3000rpm with National Compound-Medium with water

then handa glaze with purple hole then wax with collinite 845

like to try out different processes as mines aint perfect and can still see some p1500 marks and paint can be duller than id like?

iv tryed farcela g3 or g6compound cant mind also,seemed no good

farcela have dry use compound out is is any good?

im thinking or getting 3m fast cut plus and trying it
and only useing 2000 wet dry instead or 1500

can your get 2000 or 1500 velcro discs and machine flatten

as is very slow doing by hand which i do,watching corners etc lol

what process or technique do you use after painting?

thanks Pearse
 
I haven't been too impressed by the removal of scratches which my buffer does after final sanding, I used strong, medium and then a finishing compound but still some scratches can be seen from sanding. I actually found that T-Cut gave a really good finish. But this is with fresh cellulose rather than 2K.
 
It`s very important to be careful when sanding down. deep cut lines will appear even using a 2500 wet, if too much pressure is applied, sand with vertical or horizontal moves instead of light circular, and of course using a squeegee block. If lines appear after polishing use a 2000 or 2500 and with gentle circular moves remove any remaining lines and repeat polishing. It takes years of experience, and still some times you miss a couple lines here and there, especially in large areas. And most important, lacquer should never be fresh. At least 2-3 days after spray is good to manipulate.
 
pateras_vtec said:
sand with vertical or horizontal moves instead of light circular,

clear coat,leave At least 2-3 days after spray is good to manipulate.
Click to expand...

great tips thanks



is there any difference in

''scratch proof'' clear coat laquare

&

'non scratchproof'' ordinary clearcoat

in the blend/flattening/age'ing/correction process of rubbing down with p2000 wet and dry then compounding/polishing

is the scratchproof laquare harder to work with or leave marks easyer?
 
Im goning to buy some new products for paint

blend/flattening/age'ing/correction process

thinking

variety of p1500.p2000 sheets of wet and dry good quality sand paper

can you get these for velcro stick on

probally best to do by hand

then a 1kg 3M green fast cut plus III compound

(is this to be used with water)

i have 3m hookit compounding pad

what should i use after useing 3m fast cut

maybe

""3M Perfect-it III Ultrafina SE Polish 50383, 1 Litre""

what does this do to paint,
does it brighen and take dullness outa paint
after fast cut and leave gloss bright finish or what?
does it cut tru paint also like harsh compounds?

still looking tips and advice and techniques to benefit my finishing process
as this part is15-20% of final finish and is crutial

but need correct products to ensure this process is done well
 
also i have few gravity fed and pick up spraty guns but thinking about buying i new one

thinking of buying this one

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

is it good for automotive vehicle car panels etc

my own at present is a 1.4mm tip hvlp cheap gun

should i get a smaller tip or is the sealey gold gun ideal

also what psi/bar seems to be best pressure to work with
 
pearse9000rpm said:
great tips thanks



is there any difference in

''scratch proof'' clear coat laquare

&

'non scratchproof'' ordinary clearcoat

in the blend/flattening/age'ing/correction process of rubbing down with p2000 wet and dry then compounding/polishing

is the scratchproof laquare harder to work with or leave marks easyer?
Click to expand...
Scratch resistant lacquers within 2 days time are almost bullet proof to 2000 grid sand papers etc. Any intervention should be done within the first two days otherwise it will be a pain removing any small imperfections.
pearse9000rpm said:
Im goning to buy some new products for paint

blend/flattening/age'ing/correction process

thinking

variety of p1500.p2000 sheets of wet and dry good quality sand paper

can you get these for velcro stick on

probally best to do by hand

then a 1kg 3M green fast cut plus III compound

(is this to be used with water)

i have 3m hookit compounding pad

what should i use after useing 3m fast cut

maybe

""3M Perfect-it III Ultrafina SE Polish 50383, 1 Litre""

what does this do to paint,
does it brighen and take dullness outa paint
after fast cut and leave gloss bright finish or what?
does it cut tru paint also like harsh compounds?

still looking tips and advice and techniques to benefit my finishing process
as this part is15-20% of final finish and is crutial

but need correct products to ensure this process is done well
Click to expand...

velcros are meant for smoothing surfaces just before applying your polishing compound. Won`t flat orange peel look, will not remove "zits" and in general are no good for correction processes of any kind. What i use the last 10 years are mainly 3M products. Fast cut 50417 (green cap, 09374 white previously) with the green pad to take out any lines and restore lacquer, then the blue cap (don`t remember number) with the black foam pad, and if needed for holograms purple cap. have a look at their site. more or less same procedure 3M UK & Ireland - Bodyshop Solutions - Polishing

I think you will benefit from seminars or if you go as apprentice next to someone who does this professionally. There`s only so much i can say in this thread to help you, but unless you do it yourself you will never learn.

As for a spray gun there are only two options: SATA and DevilBiss
1.4 is fine if it`s HVLP (high volume low pressure for the fellow readers) and if you work with water based paint. If you use conventional paints then go to 1.2 or better 1.3. Pressures vary, i usually spray metallic colours at 2-2.2bars to evenly distribute aluminium and pearl bodies, for solids 1.8 works for me. But it`s a wider combination of how much paint your needle releases and what pressure your using.
 
Last edited:
pateras_vtec said:
Scratch resistant lacquers within 2 days time are almost bullet proof to 2000 grid sand papers etc. Any intervention should be done within the first two days otherwise it will be a pain removing any small imperfections.
Click to expand...


thanks again for your input


just speaking to a pro body man today(4/5 years in trade) and he said he didnt notice much difference in the correction process between scratch resistant lacquer and ordinary 2k lacquer,
both same to rub down 1500/2000 then compound

i take it thats not true then

if you spray a panel with base coat then a 2k scratch resistant clearcoat

and week later you need to correct it because of medium orange peel effect and some small dust particules

will the ordinary correction process be no good?

will 3m fastcut compound have any effect on sratch resistant clearcoat

i believe in future i will buy only NON scratch resistant clear coats

i myself have been painting in weekends evening etc last 3 years (electrisian by trade) and have good all around knowledge but need in the trade tips,ideas and tecniques,better products,

your work is only as good as your tools and products as they say


would i be better buying

1. 3m fast cut plus III and 3m perfect it extra fine III

or

2. 3m fast cut plus III and 3m ultrafina se III

spoke to paint shop and they said 1st option that most body shops dont bother about
ultrafina se unless working with black paintwork,so they dont bother selling it anymore

going to buy a devilbiss 1.3 gun this weekend iv front and rear bumper and wing to do on a peugeot 407 hdi

my old gun mite go for hibernation lol

what temperature do you like to paint at?

i tend to paint at 15-20 degress room temperature and mix with 20-30% thinners in 2k paints

to try get a flatter finish and not to dry to quick to let paint flow out

why do body shops have and oven at high temps

would this not dry paint too fast and cause orange peel and
stop paint flowing out naturally for flat finish?

body man i also spoke to i asked him his technique about applying his clearcoat after base

he said he gives it a very quick thin skift of clearcoat

leaves it sit 15-20 min etc to its hard/tacky then gives it a good thick long layer of final clearcoat

what way do you tend to apply your base coats and then clearcoat?

i no theres only so much i can learn from comments on a forum,

but im putting all iv learned into practice regulary so all help appriciated

thanks
 
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Pearse, I've been spraying for about 6 months also as a hobby and was wondering what your set-up is with 2k for breathing as I'm currently using cellulose.
 
pearse9000rpm said:
thanks again for your input


just speaking to a pro body man today(4/5 years in trade) and he said he didnt notice much difference in the correction process between scratch resistant lacquer and ordinary 2k lacquer,
both same to rub down 1500/2000 then compound

i take it thats not true then

There are genuine SR lacquers that are more than 50% ceramic in their formulation, and give a very hard surface, and are lacquers that have a higher tolerance against the rest in abuse. Ceramic ones, feel like sliding when try to sand them down.

if you spray a panel with base coat then a 2k scratch resistant clearcoat

and week later you need to correct it because of medium orange peel effect and some small dust particules

will the ordinary correction process be no good?

It will give results surely, but it might be more difficult trying to cut through it.

will 3m fastcut compound have any effect on sratch resistant clearcoat

i believe in future i will buy only NON scratch resistant clear coats

3M compounds work well with all clear coats, no problems. SR clear coats are great, but like you i don`t prefer them. BUT i would spray my car :win: I like SR`s on bumpers and plastic parts ie spoilers, door trims etc,

i myself have been painting in weekends evening etc last 3 years (electrisian by trade) and have good all around knowledge but need in the trade tips,ideas and tecniques,better products,

your work is only as good as your tools and products as they say


would i be better buying

1. 3m fast cut plus III and 3m perfect it extra fine III

or

2. 3m fast cut plus III and 3m ultrafina se III

spoke to paint shop and they said 1st option that most body shops dont bother about
ultrafina se unless working with black paintwork,so they dont bother selling it anymore

I agree on that. A good equivalent would also be Car System`s "only one" compound.
going to buy a devilbiss 1.3 gun this weekend iv front and rear bumper and wing to do on a peugeot 407 hdi

my old gun mite go for hibernation lol

what temperature do you like to paint at?
Ideal would be no more than 23°C, but summers in Greece give booth temperatures up to 32°C!!! Which is not good trying to get a really nice finish with your clear coat. In winter times i prefer 20°C-23°C. In that range paint dries fine with no moisture locks and you can do anything with your clear coat.
i tend to paint at 15-20 degress room temperature and mix with 20-30% thinners in 2k paints

to try get a flatter finish and not to dry to quick to let paint flow out
You don`t have to thin your paint to get the desired surface or contol drying times. Use slower or faster thinners accordingly. For wings, bumpers etc, use a fast thinner, and for sides, bonnets and roofs medium. Though i`m sure you could those with a fast thinner if you have booth temperatures at just 15°C.

why do body shops have and oven at high temps

would this not dry paint too fast and cause orange peel and
stop paint flowing out naturally for flat finish?
We do that to accelerate drying procedure. Although all manufacturers advice otherwise. Time is money. To avoid orange peel, spray at lower pressure and use slower thinners.;)
body man i also spoke to i asked him his technique about applying his clearcoat after base

he said he gives it a very quick thin skift of clearcoat

leaves it sit 15-20 min etc to its hard/tacky then gives it a good thick long layer of final clearcoat

what way do you tend to apply your base coats and then clearcoat?
I agree. More or less simple procedure really. But sometimes i tend to give it a fuller 1st layer to get a :drool: result.
i no theres only so much i can learn from comments on a forum,

but im putting all iv learned into practice regulary so all help appriciated

thanks
Click to expand...

I hope the above help a bit. Main things you need to keep in mind when spraying are:

pressure affects surface. Low pressure more caramel like surface (thick film) BUT tricky application since a mistake can lead to runs. Higher pressure gives (orange peel) thinner film and leaves little room for intervention (flatten etc) post spray.

Thinners affect drying times AND surface smoothness. No rule here, in general choose fast methods for small repairs and slower ones for wider repairs (sides, bonnets) OR more demanding colours (black, dark blue etc).

faster thinners and hardeners require less flash off times.
 
when useing 3m fast cut plus III

should it be used ''wet use'' or dry?

wet the compound pad dampish and put 3m compound spread on panel

1500-2000rpm medium hand pressure

what best way to use,tecnique

is this a good wee gun or should i spent the extra on a deviliss

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
 
i use it damp in hot weather conditions, otherwise dry is just fine. I always start at 1K rpm`s and gradually peek at 3500, depending always on the nature of the surface. As for the gun devilbiss or sata mate. You pay them once.
 
thanks for that pateras,whats a good all around panel cleaner
to lift wax,polish,grease,oil,silicones etc off panels,
before paint prep and even just before spraying

i use a gallon jar of general solvent panel wipe outa my local paint suppler,
and also a roll of white like paint purpose kitchen absorbant roll

so i pore panel wipe into a paint cup and tear of abita white roll
and pour bit onto roll then rub down my panel

as its solvent it evaperates within few seconds

any better panel wipe or panel cleaners that are extremly effective
in lifting wax,polish,grease,oil,silicones etc off panels,

as this is a very important part of process

also i use tack rags but i no issues with them,great job
 
Any degreaser will be fine. I use kitchen roll as well to clean the panel, and then to eliminate static electricity i wipe the panels again with a damp sponge cloth soaked in water. i don`t use rags, because they usually leave a great deal of debris behind.
 
do you use anti-silicone additive at all?

i bought a little 250ml tub of it and have tryed it few times

seems to be ok product just.

still seem get odd fish eye imperfection.

how does this product work?

iv been told it can contaminate the spray gun
 
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