oil cooling


I have my alarms set at 97 degrees for water...if the fans dont bring the temperature back down I would begin to take it easy and cool the car down, high gear and cruise at 60-70mph to maintain air flow

fans dont turn on if the car is moving...right?
 
I've been warned about cast manifolds holding the exhaust heat and transferring this to the head/block. Could this be what's happening? Or just lack of oil cooler causing the heat issues? Tbh I'd run at 120 on track. But any more than that is abit much for me.
Fully synthetic oils can withstand around 140degrees apperently.

I would think it would be the lack of oil cooler contributing more then the manifold.
 
fans dont turn on if the car is moving...right?

sorry I meant the cabin fans inside the car set to full heat haha (theyre worth a few C drop)

if 80-90-100+mph air isnt cooling the water down a poxy radiator fan wont bring the temps down either

but they will turn on after 92-93C with oem fan switch

my temps rarely ever get above 90C with my Koyo rad though when moving around
 
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sorry I meant the cabin fans inside the car set to full heat haha (theyre worth a few C drop)

if 80-90-100+mph air isnt cooling the water down a poxy radiator fan wont bring the temps down either

but they will turn on after 92-93C with oem fan switch

my temps rarely ever get above 90C with my Koyo rad though when moving around

Ok, then hell yes a fan works, the cabin heater on full does indeed help a ton.
The radiator fan only works at low or no speed at all. Track cars really dont need a radiator fan as they never sit in traffic while engine is running.
 
The oil temp on my NA. setup goes up and down WAY more than the coolant does. On a turbo setup the up and down should be a larger delta for oil temps and should move the coolant temps up more as well, just not as drastic as the oil.
 
You let it cool down on idle? or you did a few cool down laps then idled? What was oil pressure at idle?

I wouldn't bother with an oil cooler until you know what your coolant temps are doing first either

Second I would shield the sump from the exhaust manifold with some heat reflective tape

if you do that and have a good alloy rad with good coolant and you're still cooking oil then think about a little oil cooler

All imo

Sorry didn't see this reply. I was coming off then doing a lap of the car park which was hardly anything then parking the car and leaving it to idle for a few mins. Is this not enough?

When the car is up to the 120 range on idle I get about 30 psi. When I did the extra lap and the gauge started flashing it was at around 130 degrees and the pressure dropped to about 26 psi.

All my oil lines for the turbo are wrapped in reflective tape but ill get the sump done if that could help.

I also use the stock ek9 rad. Should I get a better rad?
 
Sorry didn't see this reply. I was coming off then doing a lap of the car park which was hardly anything then parking the car and leaving it to idle for a few mins. Is this not enough?

When the car is up to the 120 range on idle I get about 30 psi. When I did the extra lap and the gauge started flashing it was at around 130 degrees and the pressure dropped to about 26 psi.

All my oil lines for the turbo are wrapped in reflective tape but ill get the sump done if that could help.

I also use the stock ek9 rad. Should I get a better rad?

firstly, yeah cool down laps are a must, you risk causing some serious damage if you sit idling with 130C oil straight after hammering it on track. At idle the oil pressure is low to begin with...you want good oil pressure for good flow and good cooling/lubrication so stay out for a few cool down laps

what were the revs and you saw 26psi!? at idle?

whats oil pressure like when rpm increases?

better rad is a worthy upgrade on a turbo car for sure
 
Ah right ill do that next time then.

The 26 psi was at idle. Just after I come off the track.

When the rpm increases it reaches 90+ psi.

I'll get a better rad, water temp gauge fitted and get some heat reflective tape on before my next track day and see how it goes.
 
Thought I would dig up this thread instead of making a new one.

After fitting the new radiator etc my oil temps are still going too high too quickly so I'm going to get a thermostatic oil cooler.

Seen this one on tegiwa which looks good: https://www.tegiwaimports.com/tegiwa-mocal-oil-cooler-kit-honda.html

Just unsure on what size will be best for me? I'm thinking a bigger one, the 19 row, as my oil is hitting 130deg after about 2.5-3 laps of Anglesey which isn't exactly a long circuit.

Also then there is the issue of mounting it somewhere. I don't think having it in front of the intercooler is a good idea so I could mount it around the rad but then it won't have very direct airflow going to it. Anyone got any pics of where you mounted yours?

Any help is much appreciated!
 
19 row will do you fine.
Mines a 25row but is alittle overkill it's next to my half rad but if you have to run it I front of the coolant rad(keep it close to the radiator so as not to create a zone of stagnant air behind the cooler)

Your oil pressure is very good bud so don't worry about that.
I usually start getting alarmed when pressure is under 20psi at around 100c oil temp
 
Good stuff. How much more oil do you have to put in with the 25 row?

Can't decide whether to go with a smaller one if I can get away with it or just go with the 19 row.. Are there any benefits to having a smaller one?
 
I wouldn't go smaller personally.
On the first fill I usually get 5l in.
The rest is 4.5 usually.

Is technical info from mocal somewhere saying capacity of the coolers etc.
 
Never heard of them. Had a quick Google but can't see anything on what they do.
 
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Is just extra capacity, so will take longer to heat the oil as there's more of it.
Tbh you should be after adequate cooling for sustained track use with the oem sump rather than adding capacity to compensate.
 
I never saw over 104 on track with a 19 row cooler on a moderately warm day in a black car (it makes a huge difference i swear haha)
 
Im in need of an oil cooler too... maybe one of the traders on here would be nice enough to do a deal :p
 
Short shifting helps a ton aswell so if your not setting a lap and there's abit of traffic etc just short shift to save some temp.
Doesn't have to be much as it's the revs that cause the heat as much as the power tbh.
 
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