Oil Cooler +


I don't understand what's complicated about it?

oil travel time/way, more places where it can leak. it will be long stiching part on the back of the engine and can be damaged during removal of the engine, etc. i think all of these makes it complicated.
 
For a boosted setup I'd say 13 row too small an oil cooler you'd want bigger but it would help :)
 
oil travel time/way, more places where it can leak. it will be long stiching part on the back of the engine and can be damaged during removal of the engine, etc. i think all of these makes it complicated.

How often are you taking your engine out... LOL. If removing the engine you can just remove the plates, its only one bolt after all.

I used PTFE tape for how cheap a roll is its worth it

Thanks mate, good to know.

For a boosted setup I'd say 13 row too small an oil cooler you'd want bigger but it would help :)

Ive already bought the 13 row, i will try this first and see how i get on but i think it will be plenty man enough. Especially as i'm also running a full width dual core radiator too.
 
oil travel time/way, more places where it can leak. it will be long stiching part on the back of the engine and can be damaged during removal of the engine, etc. i think all of these makes it complicated.

You do no it's not sitting anywhere near anything I removed my engine with ease and installed it into my ek again with piles of clearance. Oil travel how it this an issue? Virtually no difference at all and if it's fitted correctly it def won't leak. To the op yes def use the tape I've used it on all fittings
 
You do no it's not sitting anywhere near anything I removed my engine with ease and installed it into my ek again with piles of clearance. Oil travel how it this an issue? Virtually no difference at all and if it's fitted correctly it def won't leak. To the op yes def use the tape I've used it on all fittings

The crx bay is abit tighter than an EK/DC2 etc. Thats maybe what he is getting at.
If you are using proper aeroquip fittings then there is absolutely no need to use PTFE tape on them. They seal on the nose of the connection not the thread. In fact using ptfe tape on the threads will probably have more chance of the joint leaking!
Also 13 row is man enough for boosted builds if they do the odd trackday, i would only go bigger if i was circuit racing so i could have more oil capacity.

Murray
 
The crx bay is abit tighter than an EK/DC2 etc. Thats maybe what he is getting at.
If you are using proper aeroquip fittings then there is absolutely no need to use PTFE tape on them. They seal on the nose of the connection not the thread. In fact using ptfe tape on the threads will probably have more chance of the joint leaking!
Also 13 row is man enough for boosted builds if they do the odd trackday, i would only go bigger if i was circuit racing so i could have more oil capacity.

Murray

Will still be plenty of room for the sandwich plates,depends how good the fittings are sometimes slight play in them,using the ptfe tape on the threads stops this.used it on mine and have done a few track days and it's spot on
 
Can't remember what my cooler is (think 19row)... Big full width koto rad.

Water temps 82/83 with heater matrix on hot
90 with heater matrix on cold

Oil temps on the road 75-80 normal driving depends on time of day and ambient temperatures.

Never seen more than 115deg on oil and that was 2 laps around the ring on a very hot day!

At Combe last year I don't think I saw more than 90 and whilst on track it's spot on.

Winter is a pain an I struggle to keep temp on oil. It's sits more 70-75 tried block the oil cooler half off didn't make much difference. I only use it GMT+1 anyway now.

N/A not turbo, I still struggle with temps in traffic though. I had oil temps up to 87/88 and water just over 90. Fan was on, heater matrix on hot and blowers on full chat. This doesn't take long to get hot so I am glad I have the extra cooling and that it's separate.
 
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