My J's Racing Intake Installation...


Ok my friend, i will do as you say.I personally think that you know exactly what are you doing.
I also think that stock airbox with coldair mod performs very very well as on RVM'S car.The main reason i bought J's is water issues..and sound.I wish when all of this is done, to perform the same or better than the stock filterbox+cai mod.Believe me,at least if J's perform the same as my stock box+mod, i will be glad, cause i will have the same good performance i had+without worrying about hydrolock....

I will wait for your instructions and i am sure that the result will be more than enough.:nice: but please take your time. I don't want to rush you at all.

No, i have b16a2. If you like i'll try to post some pictures of my engine bay if that helps you.

About the ecu thing i asked you above?

I also have the stock box mod before I had the J's Racing intake. mine was slightly different from RVM. I'd prefer to do the stock mod than to get a MUGEN intake.

About ecu, it depends which mapping and software. I'm not sure about your chip. Just use stock ecu and see if it's any different.

I'll dyno my car again soon to see the difference.
 
Hello,

I had one of those J's intake's (tsuchinoko) on my EG6 and the only thing i liked was the sound.
About performance my car became a bit slower than with the stock intake box with a pipercross drop in filter.

Regards
 
Hello,

I had one of those J's intake's (tsuchinoko) on my EG6 and the only thing i liked was the sound.
About performance my car became a bit slower than with the stock intake box with a pipercross drop in filter.

Regards

Yes and it wouldn't work well in a DC2R either. Main problem with EG6 and DC2 is it's very hard to run any cold air hose. The only engine bay suitable is the EK civic, which has a corner which you can duct cold air and seal off.

I wouldn't recommend it for EG or DC2. :(
 
Some examples of why it doesn't work well with the DC2 and EG6 as the engine bay is very cramped up with the ABS in the way. Whereas the EK9 has a much better area for cold air and seal off.

3049d1203651048-my-j-s-racing-intake-installation-b16b-spoon1.jpg


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Thanks SpoonCTR

Ok,

here are some pictures of my shield as promised.

With the main shield, I had to bend the brackets a fair bit to enclose the rear of the pod filter, so that no air gets sucked through the back.

As for the side shield, this was very tricky... I had to straighten the shield by bending it back, and then with the centre bracket(there are 3, left, right and centre), I hooked that onto the podfilter seal and tighten everything together onto the pod filter seal... And thats it!

With the side shield, I bent the top corner inwards to shield off more gaps. the underbonnet mouldings will mould perfectly to seal off the upper area and will be pressing down against the shield, so it's almost completely sealed. This is just a cheaper way to do it.

You'll also see the cold air feed pipe I've installed ages ago... The amount of cold air entering will be determind by the speed I drive. Also with all the shielding, none of that cold air will get past the shield and get contaminated by heat unless it is excessive air that isn't inducted and has to travel through... The best thing is, on idle or when your car isn't moving, it is still drawing air from the sealed off space in the corner which will naturally pull up cold air from the duct.

I can say that after this mod, I've been very very happy with it. But honestly, before the shield, I also wondered about the top end loss. Remember that beyond 6000rpm, your engine is sucking large amounts of air, and it needs OXYGEN and there is only 17-21% oxygen in every 1 parts of AIR. More denser the air, more oxygen within it = more torque and hp. :nice:

i have a dyno session booked in 3 weeks for my dc2, dc2 and ek9, i will post up the current ek9 setup figures(J's racing ecu + J's intake) vs my old figures with;

-ek9 stock ecu + J's racing intake
-ek9 J's ecu + stock intake with mod
-Dead Stock DC2 ITR
-Dead Stock DC5 ITR

I can't wait!


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Yes and it wouldn't work well in a DC2R either. Main problem with EG6 and DC2 is it's very hard to run any cold air hose. The only engine bay suitable is the EK civic, which has a corner which you can duct cold air and seal off.

I wouldn't recommend it for EG or DC2. :(

So this means that i have made a bad buy afterall....Cause you know i have an Eg9...Vti sedan b16a2 year 1993...So now i am starting to believe that i may have lost some performance versus the stock box mod....Am i wrong??

By the way nice pics and nice work..
 
So this means that i have made a bad buy afterall....Cause you know i have an Eg9...Vti sedan b16a2 year 1993...So now i am starting to believe that i may have lost some performance versus the stock box mod....Am i wrong??

By the way nice pics and nice work..

hmm, EG has the ABS in the same spot as DC2 i believe. This you can check yourself. The problem is your induction is very close to your headers and is surrounded by heat, unlike the EK, where its induction is in the corner.

Your main problem is heat. I'm not sure what your engine bay looks like. Why don't you post a pic up to see. :)
 
hmm, EG has the ABS in the same spot as DC2 i believe. This you can check yourself. The problem is your induction is very close to your headers and is surrounded by heat, unlike the EK, where its induction is in the corner.

Your main problem is heat. I'm not sure what your engine bay looks like. Why don't you post a pic up to see. :)
Will do as soon as possible.
 
What have you done with that electrical sensor that was connected to the oem airbox pipe? there wer 2 holes on the stanadard intake pipe but theres only one on the j's intake! does this intake come with instructions on how to fit it properly? cheers
 
What have you done with that electrical sensor that was connected to the oem airbox pipe? there wer 2 holes on the stanadard intake pipe but theres only one on the j's intake! does this intake come with instructions on how to fit it properly? cheers

ek4's have 2 holes on the intake pipe, one for a breather and one for your sensor,ek9's have only one for the breather.:nice:
 
ok cheers.

so what should i do with with the sensor if theres no hole for it? or will the j's intake for an ek4 have 2 holes one for breather and one for sensor?

thanks alot
 
ok cheers.

so what should i do with with the sensor if theres no hole for it? or will the j's intake for an ek4 have 2 holes one for breather and one for sensor?

thanks alot

Your supposed to buy the Intake for EK4, not EK9. I'm afraid you might have to make a hole :nerv:
 
Yesterday i re-installed the stockair box+mod and the car seemed to perform better...Could this be possible or is it just me...????:angry2:
 
So...it is preferable to install it only on ek9 not eg series...Anyway thank you very much for your help, i wish everyone was helpful as you my friend...
Cheers!!!!!
 
I reinstalled J's and it feels that the filter box is better at low-mid but the j's is better at high rpms..??? Is this possible? Shouldn't it be reversal???
Jugbugz i am preparing the photos for you probably will post them tomorrow.

When you guys say "stock filter mod box" you mean that the hose that goes in front bumper hole is "attached" to filterbox OR disconnected and just blowing cold air to box?
In first mod the car breathes directly from outside the bumper and in second mod the car breathes from the filterbox.
 
I reinstalled J's and it feels that the filter box is better at low-mid but the j's is better at high rpms..??? Is this possible? Shouldn't it be reversal???
Jugbugz i am preparing the photos for you probably will post them tomorrow.

When you guys say "stock filter mod box" you mean that the hose that goes in front bumper hole is "attached" to filterbox OR disconnected and just blowing cold air to box?
In first mod the car breathes directly from outside the bumper and in second mod the car breathes from the filterbox.


Hmm, maybe because you did the test straight after bolt on... For ANY SHORT RAM INTAKE (SRI) You get best throttle response and power when engine has just started up and engine bay is cold. But once you run it up, heat soak just kills the power. On a cold night, my J's Intake give AMAZING torque and power, it just shows the potential if you had cold air. My stock box never gave me that feeling on a cold night. COLD air is what you need. Right now, I don't feel any difference when my car has heated up, so means my shield is working. The bonnet presses down against the shield as well to secure the top section.

hmm, hard to say, I haven't seen the EG intake. Theres a thread where me and RVM posted a while ago on intake thread. Its "My cold air intake mod #1 and #2".

Check there. :) No probs!
 
I reinstalled J's and it feels that the filter box is better at low-mid but the j's is better at high rpms..??? Is this possible? Shouldn't it be reversal???[/U]
Jugbugz i am preparing the photos for you probably will post them tomorrow.

When you guys say "stock filter mod box" you mean that the hose that goes in front bumper hole is "attached" to filterbox OR disconnected and just blowing cold air to box?
In first mod the car breathes directly from outside the bumper and in second mod the car breathes from the filterbox.


Longer intakes like the stock box or cold air intakes work better at lower to mid RPM's, short ram intakes work better in a honda's powerband which is mid to high rpms. This really isn't up for debate.

It's almost the same way with intake manifolds, the ones with shorter runners
like the b16b take advantage of high rpm's, the ones with longer and thinner runners work best at lower to mid rpm's, like with the b18b IM.
 
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