my dc2 track car


You'll be stepping up the game if AP's are bought... But ur going need all help you can get for my big 9er :) lol
 
SPek9 said:
My oem ek9 front calipers and track pads lock up 225 wide dunlop cut slicks when you jump on the pedal so ur brakes will be plenty to slow you down for now
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kellsled said:
yeah,had mine out with the ebc red stuff and locked up on the road,could be better but more than enough for now then ill just go for something bigger,herd great things about ap racing
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No no no no no :) If you're locking them up they're not working.
Fundamental principals of braking mean the discs need to be turning to generate friction on the pads to slow the wheels down. If they're not rotating you're slowing down using the friction of the tyre on the road surface... and there's no where near the same sort of grip with rubber sliding over tarmac than carbon/ceramic pads on iron discs.

I have 4 pots on my MX5 and I very rarely get it to lock up, but I can stamp on and stop from 90-20 on a track, every lap for over 30 laps with no fade.

Being able to lock the wheels means you're not in control of the car, you're just a passenger.
If you want some proper brakes on the car, and you're serious about turning it into a track car, one of the best upgrades you can do would be brakes and handling. If you can stop 50 yards later than the guy in front, then for those 50 yards you're still accelerating and keeping up with them... or overtaking them ;)
 
FreakyParts said:
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No no no no no :) If you're locking them up they're not working.
Fundamental principals of braking mean the discs need to be turning to generate friction on the pads to slow the wheels down. If they're not rotating you're slowing down using the friction of the tyre on the road surface... and there's no where near the same sort of grip with rubber sliding over tarmac than carbon/ceramic pads on iron discs.

I have 4 pots on my MX5 and I very rarely get it to lock up, but I can stamp on and stop from 90-20 on a track, every lap for over 30 laps with no fade.

Being able to lock the wheels means you're not in control of the car, you're just a passenger.
If you want some proper brakes on the car, and you're serious about turning it into a track car, one of the best upgrades you can do would be brakes and handling. If you can stop 50 yards later than the guy in front, then for those 50 yards you're still accelerating and keeping up with them... or overtaking them ;)
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only happened when i was breaking in pads the very 1st time i was in it,brakes are pretty good to start off in, need to learn how to drive this car as ive put about 500 miles on it since i got it last year if that :) when there worn away ill get new honda discs and good pads,as mentioned in spec this is a 96 spec car and is now running 98 spec stuff so im happy enough atm then maybe some ap's will be bought in the future
 
kellsled said:
only happened when i was breaking in pads the very 1st time i was in it,brakes are pretty good to start off in, need to learn how to drive this car as ive put about 500 miles on it since i got it last year if that :) when there worn away ill get new honda discs and good pads,as mentioned in spec this is a 96 spec car and is now running 98 spec stuff so im happy enough atm then maybe some ap's will be bought in the future
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The AP kit is a lot of money what difference they give you over the Wilwoods. 2x the price doesn't give 2x the performance ;), but fitting 4 pots compared to single pistons gives you a much better increase in braking performace and lap times.
 
I agree that if you are locking up then you are not in control, my front tyrs locked up and abs kicked in when bedding in a set of ds2500's just to test them on the road at low speeds and that was with a pair of hard compound semi slicks on the front.

Out on the track with warm tyres braking from around 120 to roughly 50 they performed very well lap after lap with no locking up obviously.

I do agree tho that a proper 4-pot setup would improve the braking a lot but atm the oem setup will get you out to get used to the car. Brakes and handling are the most important factors to safely drive a car fast imo
 
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And... for £500 you get something that'll keep up with something with 2x the power :D Yes, they might start to pull away on the straights, but reeling them back in at the bends means if you've got the handling sorted you can out drive them easily.
 
Very true, i took my ek9 on the track with standard pads and couldnt hold off a few different cars because my brakes faded so badly after a couple of laps! After a set of ds2500's the difference is unreal! I can only imagine wat a 4-pot set up with the same pads is capable of.
 
The Wilwood setup I do comes with DS2500 pads too, and yes, the difference is very noticable instantly :D
 
my mate races his dc2 and a few rally boys he is mates with doesnt rate the wilwoods not sure what the problems were but says the ap racing,alcon brakes are great pieces of kit.maybe when the time comes to upgrade them you can sort me out but as said i need to get used to the car 1st. were are you based freaky parts?
 
SPek9 said:
Very true, i took my ek9 on the track with standard pads and couldnt hold off a few different cars because my brakes faded so badly after a couple of laps! After a set of ds2500's the difference is unreal! I can only imagine wat a 4-pot set up with the same pads is capable of.
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ross got a set of some carbon based pad or something,once these red stuff shits themselves ill need to upgrade to something better.But tbh the redstuff actually suprised me at how well they bit,for a fast road/occasional track car they are defo a good option
 
if i was to spend the money id go for an aftermarket set-up,when jd had the dc5 his brakes wernt that great,might of been pads tho,plus ill not be going any bigger than 15 inch,will work well for you tho
 
kellsled said:
my mate races his dc2 and a few rally boys he is mates with doesnt rate the wilwoods not sure what the problems were but says the ap racing,alcon brakes are great pieces of kit.maybe when the time comes to upgrade them you can sort me out but as said i need to get used to the car 1st. were are you based freaky parts?
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Rallying is different to track driving though. I've sold hundreds of Wilwood setups for all makes of cars and not had any problems with them.
If you can afford the initial outlay of AP/Alcon, along with the ongoing consumable costs (£200/each disc, £150/set of pads) then go for it.. we can supply those too, but when people get the £1200+ quote they tend to look for a cheaper alternative which offers 90% of the performance :D
I'm based in Gloucester, but can ship throughout the UK and internationally.

There's many happy customers on here if you do a search for Wilwoods.
 
This is one to watch :). Looks great so far. Where did you mount your tow strap? Chassis rail i hope?? I say this as i have seen guys mount to the slam pannel and watched the front of the car get ripped off when towed out of gravel.

I run 286mm vented disks, mx550 pads, 5.1 dot fluid, hel braided lines and i have removed splash sheilds. I can kick the living sh#t out of my brakes and no fade. On track days i think it is mainly down to driver and just because you passed the noob in his Ariel Atom doesn't mean your car is anywhere near the same standard!
 
Willis said:
This is one to watch :). Looks great so far. Where did you mount your tow strap? Chassis rail i hope?? I say this as i have seen guys mount to the slam pannel and watched the front of the car get ripped off when towed out of gravel.

I run 286mm vented disks, mx550 pads, 5.1 dot fluid, hel braided lines and i have removed splash sheilds. I can kick the living sh#t out of my brakes and no fade. On track days i think it is mainly down to driver and just because you passed the noob in his Ariel Atom doesn't mean your car is anywhere near the same standard!
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mounted to the rail yeah,taking the ariel atom thing a figure of speach as ive never been on track haha
 
EXPENSIVE UPDATE:
just recieved my new exhaust pics to follow after i get my dinner lol
 
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