My 98 UKDM Integra Type R

[Flamby]

Ok time for an update...

Last week had some huge boxes from Tegiwa arrive... treated myself (and the car of course) to some new toys, seeing as it had had its big service I thought it would be rude not to have some fun with it

So the following bits arrived...

Tegiwa Mugen Replica air box
Cooling plate
3 point front strut brace and matching rear brace
Carbon plug cover
Beaks replica rear bar
Magnecor ignition leads
various fancy screws and sunken washers from the Tegiwa line up...

Basically I tried my best to buy everything on their new website lol

We had some nice weather last week, so I took full advantage to get as much stuff fitted to the teggie as possible...

Only got two pictures of some of the new items as I opened them... was in such a rush to get them on....

Right first off... here is my engine bay as it was

Ok here are some pics of the fitting of everything, they aren't all that great so I apologise for the quality. But they give you an idea of how it all went into place.

First of all, front bumper must come off for the easiest fitting.
Instructions on how to do that easily can be found here:
G3 Front bumper removal - Team Integra

Then its a case of removing the old air box, resonator and silicone pipe, so as to give you as much room as possible to work with.
I couldn't actually believe how big the resonator box actually is! Massive thing!

Out with the old...


This gave me plenty of room to put all the new bits in... so first off me and my friend swapped out the cam cover, and fitted the new leads and carbon plug cover...

Much better already!

Then as there was loads of room, ready for the Mugen replica air box to go on, I fitted the brake master cylinder stopper too...



Ok time to fit the air box into this space...

This bracket that used to support the standard air box, must be removed.



Its just two bolts, so should come off easily.

I have an ABS equipped car, and it does look very tight, so for safety sake I covered the ABS unit in bubble wrap until the air box was in properly.



Then me and my friend manoeuvred the new air box into its proper location.
This was very tight and took a few pulls and pushes to get it to sit right!

We did up the rear bracket first, to make sure it was all in line and rotated to the right place.



As that one is the least fragile of the two brackets (metal vs fibreglass), and then we did up the lower front bracket.



Screwed in fully


We then fitted the lower bracket brace, its connected via a jubilee clip included in the pack, and attaches to a bolt hole on the car, a hole which holds up the front drivers side arch undertray. didn't get any specific pics of this, but it does make sense when your under there!

We then went to fit the splash guard, if I'm honest, this is what confused me the most! So I've taken some pics of how the brackets fit to it and the chassis.





I then fitted the upwards snorkel intake bit... technical term. And put some duck tape around it to keep it in place as show here:




We then connected up the old silicone hose, double checked everything, and put it all back together.

Once that was done we fitted the 3 point strut brace, that was a bit of a pain and required the car to be off the ground at the front with the top tower strut bolts un done, it then slipped into place nicely....

So the finished result is...







Oh and one quick one showing the Skunk2 socks I got on it too...

By the end of all this, I was rapidly running out of light.
So I didn't get round to doing any proper photos of the new engine bay look, that is still to come.

I also didn't manage to get round to fitting the rear brace, or the rear lower beaks replica bar.

I will do that at the same time as the H brace most likely, which is still waiting to get fitted at some point.

As for these improvements I have just done, the car feels a lot better for it all! The air box has made the car a lot more drivable at lower revs, and really comes alive once in VTEC, going from OEM to this has really impressed me!
The front brace has all stiffened things up, and turn in does appear to be sharper, so I am happy with that also.
The brake master cylinder stopper has also tightened up brake pedal feel.

All in all, a productive day improving an already awesome car
Jobs to do:

- H brace
- lower bar
- plenty more Tegiwa screws and sunken washers to fit
- New brake pads to fit
- HEL braided lines to fit
- New discs all round

Its a never ending project hehe

Thanks for looking and reading!

Cheers,

Dan

 

[EK9dan]

Loving the updates!! The new engine detailing is awesome. Nice mods throughout.

 

[Flamby]

Thanks Ek9dan Yeah I'm loving the engine bay now too, looks so smart just going to do my best to keep it that way hehe.

Cheers buddy!

 

[murphy2]

nice read man you said the battrey solve the problem all together was your car not starting or you just desided to change it and what did you clean your plug with as i dont know much and ill like to learn from your experience thanks

 

[Flamby]

nice read man you said the battrey solve the problem all together was your car not starting or you just desided to change it and what did you clean your plug with as i dont know much and ill like to learn from your experience thanks

Cheers mate, yeah the battery solved the problem completely for me.

Basically it was leaking rather badly, and was sending funny signals to the ECU, causing a CEL light to engage, and making the car behave awfully because of this.
Car was starting okish... it was hesitating on start up, just before I changed it sometimes it would start, and others it needed a few turns of the key. Once we spotted the leak out of the back of the battery, thats when it was changed, and then the problem was fixed

As for the cleaning of the plugs, that was done using a wire brush, just give the tips a good brush and they come up as good as new

Hope that helps mate, but if there is anything else, then please ask

Dan

 

[murphy2]

thanks mate for your help i have got a ek9 which i think i could be having sometins similar but your is difrent from mine im kind of loosing power the battrey i av on my car is on it since it came in from japan but i went in to shop for bout 20 mins the other day left my car indicator on and my battery was dead by the time i got back so im wondering would such battery av effect on performane as the car still start when i put the key in but reading below 14 volt when im driving on my neo thank mate any help would do.

 

[murphy2]

thanks mate for your help i have got a ek9 which i think i could be having sometins similar but your is difrent from mine im kind of loosing power the battrey i av on my car is on it since it came in from japan but i went in to shop for bout 20 mins the other day left my car indicator on and my battery was dead by the time i got back so im wondering would such battery av effect on performane as the car still start when i put the key in but reading below 14 volt when im driving on my neo thank mate any help would do.

 

[Flamby]

thanks mate for your help i have got a ek9 which i think i could be having sometins similar but your is difrent from mine im kind of loosing power the battrey i av on my car is on it since it came in from japan but i went in to shop for bout 20 mins the other day left my car indicator on and my battery was dead by the time i got back so im wondering would such battery av effect on performane as the car still start when i put the key in but reading below 14 volt when im driving on my neo thank mate any help would do.

Oh right, hmm well I would say you should definitely have the battery at least checked, could be a bad earth though too? So check the engine one and the gearbox earth.

And yeah the battery did effect performance for me anyway, caused lumpy running and hesitation.

are you getting a CEL light at all? Any error codes?

 

[murphy2]

write i did get a battery which ill be fiting today or so and how would you know a bad earth
im not geting any cel light at all or error and also when i live the heating on the car idle above 1000rpm or on it when i turn the heating off it idle below 1000 and car doesnt drive as smooth as when the heating is on and im actualy thinking it could be earth problem i change to a hotwire earthkit few month ago but the old one was still left on the car the idle does go up and down thank for your help

 

[TypeRuss]

Nice read matey... Car looks really sweeeet!

 

[Flamby]

murphy2 - sorry I haven't replied sooner mate, have you had any luck diagnosing your issue and fixing it? Hope so!

TypeRuss - thanks for the comment mate! Great to get some feedback

 

[Flamby]

Ok time for an update...

Thanks to the fantastic weather we had in the Reading area last week, I've been able to get a whole bunch of jobs on the Integra out of the way!

I've taken a whole bunch of pictures, so hopefully they'll either be of interest or help to someone.

So first off I'll start with the H brace fitting.

ok so once under the car, first things first, remove the two bolts at the back, the ones that will eventually hold the back of the h brace to the car.

Its a pretty long bolt, but came out nice and easily.

Then you move to the front lower arms, to get out the bolt which will eventually hold up the front of the H brace to the car.

These are a bit more tricky, due to the fact that if the arm is unsupported during removal of the bolt, it will fall out of place, and require some moving about to get in line again so the bolt can go back in.

I used a jack to support the front lower arm during this process, and to therefore keep it where it needed to be.

Pretty long bolt in this one too.

Ok now its time to put the bolts back in place through the H brace mounting holes, and to secure it all back together nice and tightly.

Results:

Well a pretty easy job to do. I have found since fitting it that the turn in has become sharper, however steering appears to have become slightly heavier as a result? Not sure if this is just me though, may be a placebo.

However ground clearance has suffered from the fitting of this, and I've already scraped it on speed bumps.

And the car creaks a bit more now.

But all that being said, I believe it was worth fitting as the positives outweigh the negatives in my mind.

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Without trying to push my luck, I thought I'd have a go at fitting my Tegiwa rear lower bar.

However I quickly had a problem with this, the ABS brackets need to be removed in order to fit a lower bar, and the ABS lines cable tied to a new location, all in all a pretty simple task, however due to the ABS bracket bolts being completely rusted this was nowhere near as easy a job as I wanted it to be.
I was also quickly running out of patience to deal with this properly... so I will get it done shortly.

Pictures for reference though:

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Well its spring... time for new front wipers!

I got hold of some of those Aero ones from Opies Oils, I realise there is mixed reviews on these, but I had them on my old Mr2 Turbo, and they did the job nicely.

out with the old

on with the new

Result:

So far so good, at all legal speeds.

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[Flamby]

Earth wire strap.

I have been meaning to change the tacky looking earth wire that goes from the Cam cover to the front panel for a while, so I got some old amp earth wiring and swapped it over.

old wire

on with the new

Result:

Nice and easy job, and finishes off the engine bay freshening up.

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Unfinished job... Oil catch can.

New to figure out where to put my oil catch can...

Nothing special, just an ebay jobby, but it will do what it needs to do.

however the engine bay is starting to look a little bit packed... open to suggestions on this one?

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Unfinished job... fitting of gauges.

I have had an oil pressure, and oil temp gauge sat in my garage for a while.

My plan has been to put them in through a sandwhich plate at the next oil change (roughly around may).
But it was so nice that I thought I would at least wire them electronically, to make sure they work and so on.

So after searching on the forum I was happy to hear that behind the clock is a plug that can allow you to get gauges all wired up with very little hassle.

Use a flat head screw driver on the passenger side and the clock will pop out nicely.

then unplug the clock and you'll be left with this plug:

So I set about having a go at the wiring...

Be careful not to wire up the gauges wrong at first though, as I managed to blow the clock/audio fuse (back up fuse in the front fuse box 7.5amp), and I managed to blow the dials light fuse (another 7.5amp fuse but this time in the drivers side kick panel.)

I then thought about my mistake and used a multi meter to find which wire corresponds to which (silly to have thought I could do it without one...), anyway here is the correct info.

Permanent live = white with blue stripe

Acc Live (ignition) = yellow with blue stripe

Negative (earth) = black

Illumination = red with black stripe

Those wire colours are applicable to my UKDM, hopefully they will be the same for JDM people too.

Once they were all wired up to the plug, and worked, I then went about wiring the sensor wires through the firewall into the engine bay.

I used this grommet down to the left of the battery as you lack at the engine from the front.

and a closer shot

this comes out in the passenger side footwell, and is therefore very easy to get the wires up to the clock position for the gauges.

then using a clock blocker plate bought from Tegiwa, I was able to get as neat as I wanted it to be...

Obviously in those pics the gauges are not secured down, or in their final angle or position.

Now that I know they work, I have unplugged them until the day that I change the oil and fit the sensors into the sandwhich plate. I will then fit them how I want them to the dash.

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Then I got sticker happy...

Not everyones cup of tea, but I've always liked representing certain clubs/forums on my car.

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[Flamby]

Now for the recaro clean/refurb and drivers side bolster change.

Heres two pics previously put up in this thread, just to remind you of what they looked like before I had a go at cleaning them.

Ok so first of all, the seats had to come out of the car so the work could start.

Out and in my lounge ready for the bolster change/cleaning

So on with the bolster change...

Bolster was bought from capital seating, as a direct replacement for the worn drivers side bolster.

Ok first of all, get the seat on its side, and the rail must come off.

Revealing this

You then have to undo the side panel at the rear of the seat, therefore freeing the back from the bottom.

like so

ok then you have to unclip the fabric at the bottom of the seat, its done by pushing the wire that holds it in place out from under the clips, sorry I don't have pics of this, but its obvious when you have the seat out in front of you.

So you then have to unclip the center section of the seat that clips over the front and back. And tear some of the material to allow you to freely pull the side fabric up over the old bolster.

front

rear

Then you'll be able to pull out the old bolster, mine literally fell apart in my hand as I grabbed, was in a pretty bad shape.

So then its just a case of putting the new one in, and stretching the fabric back over it till it fits just right, and hopefully parallel with the other side bolster.

Heres mine back in place

Right so that out of the way, on with the cleaning

Having been recommended 1001 by a couple of friends, I thought I'd give it a go.

Literally just covered the area with the 1001, left if for a while, then using the microfibre cloth and some warm water I massaged the cleaner into the seats, then using another dry microfibre cloth I wiped the area afterwards.

Incredible how much dirt I ended up with in the bowl of water.

finished results:

and here are some close ups of each bolster...

So pretty happy with the result, I put them back in the car!

Huge improvement as far as I'm concerned, definitely worth doing!

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[Flamby]

Harness bolt fitting.

I've been wanting harnesses for my Integra for a while now, I did a lot of research into the whole subject, and found that yes my car will not be as safe with them as it could be with a cage as well, but it will be ok for every now and then use.

So I went about on ebay trying to find a bargain, maybe some harnesses that had lost their FIA approval, good reason to sell for someone competing, and a great reason for someone like me to buy them who only does a few track days a year!

and I found these 4 point harnesses...

I wanted to be able to fit them so that I could take them out when not needed, and still have all my oem seat belts + the rear seats.

I did some research on the forum, and found a great thread about the size eye bolts to use! So I sourced the various eye bolts via driftworks and ebay.

On with the fitting...

First of all the lap belt bolts needed doing, as per the recommendation on the other thread, I used the lower front seat belt mount for one of the eye bolts (the really long one)

and then I used the recaro rail on the seat to locate the other eye bolt, this required a bit more work.

This shows the bolt I'd be using, the left one.

Once I had removed the rail it revealed that a nut on the other side would need removing before the eye bolt could be put in place.

I tapped away at the 3 tack welds to begin with, so as to weaken them.
Then using a torque wrench and the appropriate sized socket I broke off the nut.

And then replaced the rail fully and fitted the eye bolt and a nylock nut to secure it in place.

Ok then I moved on to the mounting of the rear eye bolts, as recommended I used the rear seat belt mount bolts.

and the lower rear seat belt mounts, which are slightly hidden by the side panel plastic.

So all done, I put it back together and refitted the seats.

This therefore gives me a setup that can be fitted at will, and has allowed me to keep all the oem belts, the rear seats, and full movement of the front two seats!

I am afraid I don't have any pictures of the harnesses on the seats, but I will do soon!

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Next jobs to do:

MOT booked for the 4th of May.

New brake pads and discs all round: OEM blank style discs front and back, with Hawk HP+ pads front, and Hawk HPS pads rear.
Braided lines and Motul RBF 600 brake fluid.

New tyres: going for Yokohama prada spec 2 all round

Possible new clutch and flywheel and transmission fluid change... just to be safe.

And I've been turning my attention to the rear arches. I was lucky enough to buy a car where one arch had been completely rebuilt by TGM, however the drivers side one is suffering a little bit.

I think I will need to tackle it soon, and most likely underseal the car myself at some point also.

As always, I'll do a write up about what I end up doing!

Thank you for looking and I hope it was interesting!

Dan

 

[Mattharvey12]

damn those seats look good now!

really coming along well now, bring on nur!

 

[Flamby]

cheers Matt

Big thanks to you though for the help with the seats, has to be said
they've come up really nicely, and I've got hold of a pair of seat covers, so they should remain this way for a while

Really looking forward to Nur now Bring on June

 

[Mattharvey12]

no problems bud, will have to do this at some point for myself and will ask for your help
nice!

i cant wait but a massively expensive month coming up for me

 

[Flamby]

no problems bud, will have to do this at some point for myself and will ask for your help
nice!

i cant wait but a massively expensive month coming up for me

of course mate, you know I'm always happy to help

Yeah its an expense... but since when have cars not been an expensive hobby may as well spend monies on something we enjoy

 

[Mattharvey12]

sweet

very true! i love buying tax even though all roads in the UK suck!