metal shavings in oil pan


Mallyauto86 said:
and whats the advantage of having a thermostat on the oil system then ? it mite be a very stupid question but i am curious to know why because most of the kits do not have a thermostat on the sandwitch plate. and if they do they are wayyyy out of my budget
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when you start your engine cold, the oil is thick and does not flow well until it gets heated up. If your oil cooler is open [no thermostat] it will take longer to heat up the oil, not good. You do not want to run oil cold for very long, the faster it heats up to optimal operating temps, the less damage done.

Get oil temp gauge and oil pressure gauge into the mix prior to anything, you dont know if you need a cooler yet buddy, stay away from them if you dont need it; cost and hassle. If you need to after seeing what the gauges are telling you, do it right with a thermostat plate of some kind.

This one can be mounted anyplace!

 
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if you do not run a thermostat then oil will constantly be circulating around the cooler and may not reach optimum operating temperature thus damaging the engine

Edit - beat to it.....better response above
 
tama666 said:
when you start your engine cold, the oil is thick and does not flow well until it gets heated up. If your oil cooler is open [no thermostat] it will take longer to heat up the oil, not good. You do not want to run oil cold for very long, the faster it heats up to optimal operating temps, the less damage done.

Get oil temp gauge and oil pressure gauge into the mix prior to anything, you dont know if you need a cooler yet buddy, stay away from them if you dont need it; cost and hassle. If you need to after seeing what the gauges are telling you, do it right with a thermostat plate of some kind.

This one can be mounted anyplace!
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so i'm guessing my best bet is buying some decent guages then going from there am i right sir ?
 
Mallyauto86 said:
so i'm guessing my best bet is buying some decent guages then going from there am i right sir ?
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If you are indeed on a tighter budget, hell yes get the gauges going first. They are low cost and are easy to install. They will tell you what you need to know.
Im not English, not a "sir", sir.
 
loool don't matter if you;re not a sir

anyway at the moment yes im on a tight budget.

ok then i will get those guages orderd
 
should be recieving them friday then will fit them on saturday or sunday...

will be fitting some to my mates Integra R at the same time he decided to get some too before he takes the car on track... i'l post some pics on my progress thread mint ITR only 29 000 miles !!!!
 
Mallyauto86 said:
should be recieving them friday then will fit them on saturday or sunday...

will be fitting some to my mates Integra R at the same time he decided to get some too before he takes the car on track... i'l post some pics on my progress thread mint ITR only 29 000 miles !!!!
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Good news!
When at the track try to log your beginning temps and pressures, warm up times, get to know what the normal startup readings are. Keep mental notes when out on track, pick spots out on track to peek at your readings. I use long straights and long turns to look at both temps and pressure. Long turns for pressure mainly.

Done! These gauges will allow your engine to communicate to you its needs for oil cooling and oil sump baffling performance.

My oil pressure dropped when weld in baffles were being used, [thank you gauges] I stay away from that crap now and use a moroso kick out baffle and one-way doors to hold the oil in the correct place.

Anywho--good news buddy, enjoy them. You will wonder how you got along without them prior!
 
bloody hell oil pressure dropping because of the baffled weld in plates ? crud thats what i;ve just put in !!!

and yeah my girlfriend will be taking readings through out the track day next saturday allong with my lap times so should have some nice data that i will share with you once i;ve got it all up and running.

Just as a guide line what normal oil pressure am i looking for ? like what should it be at on cold start ish.

I really apreciate the help tama anyway you've been imense help bud ;)
 
Cold start oil pressure readings, boy that really depends on the condition of your oil pump.

im getting about 80psi on cold start at idle
once fully warm im getting about 25psi at idle
fully warm wot 85psi 'ish. pressure does not drop at all in turns now.

My readings dont matter to you, your gauge will read differently over what I am using, even if we have the same pressure, gauges read differently from one to the other. This is why I am recommending you take notes ASAP to learn where your car sits "as is" because this IS your base line with your current oil pump and mileage on it. The older [total mileage] the pump is, the lower the pressure it will return.

Once you know your base line readings you will be able to spot issues faster thats related to oil pressure and temp.

[weld in baffles failed me on a long sweepers oil went elsewhere due to the G's and time in the turn]

Note the images below, look for the doors built into this pan, they work. And the added oil capacity can only help to keep the oil cool.
My system with oil cooler and larger pan hold a total of 6 quarts of oil. Yup, its expensive to change oil now.
twincamtech_2198_48120813



The black fitting on the oil pan is the oil return that Ive fitted a 10AN fitting and plug, in case a turbo shows up in the future.
attachment.php



Oil temp sensor installed but not being used yet.
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Here you can see where I mounted the oil thermostat left side of pic with the blue and red AN fitting. You can also see in the pic where I have installed sensors into the thermostat but they are not wired up. I was reading oil temps going into the oil cooler and temps coming out of the oil cooler. Also a thermoswitch not being used. Plugs basically now.
body2194.jpg


With all this crap hanging off the car I can feel safe with making it back to the trailer at the end of a session.

...
 
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Flipping heck thats some serious setup you have there mate !!!

i see you have moved you're oil filter too ... think i mite have to copy you're setup when i can afford it.... and i'm sure even if it's expensive for you to change the oil i bet you have to do it so less often than me !!!

i'm at changing oil + filter after every track day atm... looking at 2 cans of 300v ... 20 quid a pop
 
Mallyauto86 said:
Flipping heck thats some serious setup you have there mate !!!

i see you have moved you're oil filter too ... think i mite have to copy you're setup when i can afford it.... and i'm sure even if it's expensive for you to change the oil i bet you have to do it so less often than me !!!

i'm at changing oil + filter after every track day atm... looking at 2 cans of 300v ... 20 quid a pop
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Why every trackday ? You should get 2+ at least from 300v , if it hasnt broken down theres no need to replace it.
 
Mallyauto86 said:
Flipping heck thats some serious setup you have there mate !!!

i see you have moved you're oil filter too ... think i mite have to copy you're setup when i can afford it.... and i'm sure even if it's expensive for you to change the oil i bet you have to do it so less often than me !!!

i'm at changing oil + filter after every track day atm... looking at 2 cans of 300v ... 20 quid a pop
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I had to figure all this out myself, but what you see is what I ended up with...good system and no leaks. MFactory relocation plates, fluidyne oil radiator 5 row low pressure drop item because its so small. Braided lines are top quality super tight mesh to prevent pressure loss from expansion.

same here buddy, every track day oil is changed as well as trans oil, full bleed of brakes too. I use AMSOil zinc formula to help protect the cams, not low cost, but good insurance floating around. [i beat the living hell out of my car buddy, as much as I love the dam thing, I flog it.]
 
urm it normal my oil is about 95 degrees with normal ish dirving ... oil presure is around 2.5 bars ticking over and about 4.5 bars when running in revs.
 
looks like im getting a bit of oil pressure loss in corners i tried it round a roundabout pushing it pretty hard going more than once round it and i get about a 1 bar loss in pressure.... but the level of oil is just under max i only put 2 cans of motul 300v looks like i mite have to crack open another one and top it up see if it helps ...

Think that morrosso sump is going to be on the list for next year .... do they actually fit any b series engine ? or only b16b/ b18c6r ..
 
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