ksport break kits


Well, according to that you should be locking up the rear wheels!

Is the 70% front weight off the scales?
 
My rears are working less than 25%, but there is no other selections in your forms. I had to lower rear brake bias because I experience oversteer in the corners when braking and I loose traction of the rear end..

The weight is average and I think that it is near 70/30. it's about 300kg in the back and 580kg in front. I still haven't corner weighted my car, but this is my guess and I've seen somewhere online and it turned out something like this.

But now I think that I don't need bigger brakes in the rear because of my very light back of the car, right?

All I need is to try to throw as much weight as possible to the back of the car and to have efficient setup in front which would help me to stop while not blocking the wheels.

Also, worth mentioning that I am playing with aerodynamics. Fitted big rear spoiler, which will add some weight there with speed increasing, so I wonder that I will be able to use more of my rears to help reduce the overall stoping distance.
 
Complex setup!

When you say the rears are doing less than 25%, do you mean you've got an adjustable valve and it's on less than 25% of the full rear pressure?

If your car is 880kg and the rears are 300kg, then that makes the distribution more like 66%, which will make quite a difference to the bias. You're right though, really for your setup you need a fair deal of front bias, so your current setup is going to be pretty good.

I wouldn't worry too much about adding weight to the rear, as long as you get the brake temperatures you need and the correct bias, it can be made to work well with a heavy front end. With that sort of power, you're probably going to want to look at the aftermarket kits for sure. I don't have many listed, but if you find anything that might be of interest I can add the specs in to see how they compare. :nice:

Aero is a tricky one. Yes, you could use more rear bias at high speed, but it would then be too much at low speed. You'd really need a speed sensitive bias system to work it optimally.
 
I am not sure how much % is going to the rears.

Yes, I have simple knob type bias valve and I adjusted it by my feel and own preference/liking. But I guess it is something about 10 or 15%.

When I will know exact weight of the axles numbers I can do some extra calculations.

So to my understanding ep3 300mm setup with ds3000 pads will be not enough for my needs?

What do you think about Brembo OEM Peugeot 406 3,0 4 piston setup? Or maybe aftermarket Tarox would be a better option?

Both setups will be using similar discs (about 300mm diameter).
 
Can you say what Dynamic bias would be a well balanced setup?

With some adjustments and big front brake kit I managed to get 22% with normal rotor temperatures.
 
Stakis said:
So to my understanding ep3 300mm setup with ds3000 pads will be not enough for my needs?
Click to expand...

It should give you a decent temperature drop, whether it is enough is another matter.

Stakis said:
What do you think about Brembo OEM Peugeot 406 3,0 4 piston setup?
Click to expand...

Fade is down to the size of the disc, you need a proper BBK engineered to match the car. Bodging brakes off another car with completely different requirements seldom works well. I would avoid.

Stakis said:
Or maybe aftermarket Tarox would be a better option?

Both setups will be using similar discs (about 300mm diameter).
Click to expand...

Get the aftermarket. Disc diameter might be the same but the aftermarket kits will usually have a much thicker disc which is what you need.
 
Stakis said:
Can you say what Dynamic bias would be a well balanced setup?

With some adjustments and big front brake kit I managed to get 22% with normal rotor temperatures.
Click to expand...

'Perfect' is 0%, but 10% leaves a nice safety margin. 22% is still pretty good though.
 
Just made a basic version of the brake app: Black Art Dynamics - Threshold Braking Bias Calculator (Honda)

Bias and temp guages should be more intuitive.

Chucked your setup in, try changing just the fronts to ATR brakes. Looks spot on at 0% on the prop, everything in the green. Can upgrade front pads to DS2000 and dial a bit more rear pressure in with the valve for the same effect too. :nice:
 
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Stakis said:
I am not sure how much % is going to the rears.

Yes, I have simple knob type bias valve and I adjusted it by my feel and own preference/liking. But I guess it is something about 10 or 15%.

When I will know exact weight of the axles numbers I can do some extra calculations.

So to my understanding ep3 300mm setup with ds3000 pads will be not enough for my needs?

What do you think about Brembo OEM Peugeot 406 3,0 4 piston setup? Or maybe aftermarket Tarox would be a better option?

Both setups will be using similar discs (about 300mm diameter).
Click to expand...

Used accord type r front calipers on my track dc2 with fully built engine and box and used mtec 300mm grooved discs and ds3000 pads, rear is running ebc red stuff with oem plain discs worked very well for me no brake fade even after being out for 3 or 4 full sessions. Only thing is brake fluid rbf600 is no good for a race car
 
Stakis said:
I am using rbf 660 why it is bad?
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It's not bad it's just not what I'd use in a race car. My mate used it in his k20 dc2 race car with his ap racing big brakes and cooked the fluid, and when I was out last i cooked mine to so had to put fresh in.
It's good if it's just the odd track day/ fast road but for fully out race cars there a lot better..... He rates the ap racing fluid he was using it last I spoke to him with no problems
 
Kozy > I checked discs thicknesses and the ones I am using now are 282x25. EP3 300m ones are 25mm too. TAROX 306mm 6 pot brake kit have 306x26 discs, so not very thick... :S
 
ATR are 300x28, should do nicely. Something with a 32mm disc would be better but you're going to pay a lot for that.
 
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