If you had 2k to spend in your ek9?


Cool, looks like ther is plenty of options about
 
Engine rebuild, Gear box rebuild
coilovers, ARBs
Tyres
 
If we are talking about a completely standard EK9. With 2k to spend for purely track upgrades and No labour charges.

Assuming you have fair experience on track in a Civic, your tyres are in good condition and that the car is in good condition to start with. Not needing any repairs, new bushes, LSD not worn out ect...

Strip any unneeded weight (rear seats ect) = Free (Plus full aircon delete if fitted) £5 for belt
Decent pair of solid light bucket seats and harnesses to keep you in position = £400
Assuming standard discs are in good order. A decent set of pads all round should be enough to start with = £200
Gear set 3/4/5 = £500
Decat and decent Ex system (Min 60mm) = £250 (second hand or cheaper if you can weld)
Set of decent Used coilovers or shock and spring setup = £400
Decent Geo alignment and corner height setup = £80
Baffled sump = £50 (weld in plates plus new gasket)
Seperat Oil breather bottle (no breathers into intake) = £20
Then the rest spend on track time and petrol :nice:

All approx cost, some and more can be found allot cheaper if your in right place right time.
 
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Sounds like a sensible approach.
 
On my EK4 track/weekend car I'm mainly focussing on improving the durability of the car, before making it faster. I usually track my car at Zolder, Belgium. A circuit very hard on brakes and tyres. So my first concern is keeping my brakes cool enough to drive 15-20min flat out. So bigger brakes, steel brake lines, good pads and discs. Cooling ducts from the bumper to the brakes. Next problem is the oil getting to hot after such a stint. So, basicly a good grade oil 5W50 if you engine is in good condition or a 10W60 and an oil cooler. And true, a bucket seat makes a huge difference. I actually never knew how important that was untill I hit the track with a stock seat.
 
Reason i mentioned non performance things like - lowered seat rail and the steering wheel hub so its closer to you is because i think these items give more confidence to the driver.

i truly believe if you had 2 standard Ek9's on a track.

1 of them only had driver mod's : Lower seat rail, Short shift gear linkage, Steering wheel closer to you with a hub and an extended gear stick so its up higher..

the other has say 7 - 8 More hp but completely standard setup inside.

I really think the added confidence that the interior mods install in the driver would actually lead to that driver being able to keep up with the ek9 with more power.

Speaking from my experience BTW i have no proof for this.

just the seat rail on its own changed the Whole car drastically for me. i felt like i was part of the car as opposed to being ON top of it ( i hope that makes sense )

Also being nearly 6"1 its not a nice place to be in the standard EK9 :lol:
Sometimes driver confidence can make so much difference. a good example of which are the chaps who race about the ring in their golf Gti's.. they've done it so many times they know the track and their car inside out. so much so cars with twice the power have no chance.

P.s ******* love that video tama :D
 
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Unless you are going b20 k20 i dont thing you need A/M coilovers.

See my cadwell vid, std engine and suspention and got round in 1:51 with a passenger

the std ek9 suspention is superb.

And as for chasing 7/8/9 bhp is pointless when you spend serious £ and gearbox mods will make a world of difference.
 
Goosse said:
On my EK4 track/weekend car I'm mainly focussing on improving the durability of the car, before making it faster. I usually track my car at Zolder, Belgium. A circuit very hard on brakes and tyres. So my first concern is keeping my brakes cool enough to drive 15-20min flat out. So bigger brakes, steel brake lines, good pads and discs. Cooling ducts from the bumper to the brakes. Next problem is the oil getting to hot after such a stint. So, basicly a good grade oil 5W50 if you engine is in good condition or a 10W60 and an oil cooler. And true, a bucket seat makes a huge difference. I actually never knew how important that was untill I hit the track with a stock seat.
Click to expand...

Why would you fit an oil cooler and then switch to thicker oil?
Is 50w not way too think unless very heavily modded to suit?
 
Tophers idea makes sense actually.
I may go with that idea regardless what happens. I'm 6ft so lowered rail sounds like a must. I also like having the wheel really close to me so new wheel aswell. Will see how I feel about the pedals.
Any other ideas from anyone?
 
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