(HELP) ASR 24mm rear ARB and brace


elchunk

elchunk

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Right i installed this yesterday and there is a god awful sqeeking/creaking noise coming from the rear suspension/ARB area when i drive over bumps and ramps, basicly when the rear suspension in being compressed! I'm not sure if its meant to be like that or what? it sounds realy painful though. Any advise on what is wrong and how to rectify this problem please! :(:)(:)((
 
do you have aftermarket LCA ? if so what brand

are you using adjustable end links or non-adjustable ?
 
Using the standard LCA's and Blox adjustable drop links.
 
Did you grease the D – brackets ?

Also you want to adjust the end links with the car on the ground so the sway bar level/straight
 
use proper grease and your problem will be solved. Grease the bushings and the end links.


Chet Baker, i haven't adjusted mine with the car on the ground. Is this a problem? The ASR logo can be seen straight as you look at it. Still it is very difficult to get under the car and adjust it with no preload i guess.
 
saxophonias said:
use proper grease and your problem will be solved. Grease the bushings and the end links.


Chet Baker, i haven't adjusted mine with the car on the ground. Is this a problem? The ASR logo can be seen straight as you look at it. Still it is very difficult to get under the car and adjust it with no preload i guess.
Click to expand...
Yes, you should adjust the endlinks so there's no load at ride height, because when it's preloaded it will "unload" in one direction during mid-corner, which can be unsettling. If you can't get under the car to do this, you can use this method. You need jack stands, two jacks of any kind (floor jack and spare jack will work), and two strong boards.

Keep all wheels on the car.
Pull the e-brake really tight.
Put the front of the car up on jack stands.
Put the rear of the car up on jack stands just one step lower than the fronts.
Now, put a jack under each rear tire with a board above each jack as a buffer for the the tire.
Raise each jack up until the car is no longer on the rear stands, and the car is level.
Put your rear jack stands up somewhere stable in the rear for safety.
Now, adjust your end links.

Long directions, but this is easier than rotating the tires.
 
thanks! The preload is adjusted through end links them selves? I think that there are 2 holes on the swaybar to mount.
 
Right i've figured out where i when't wrong, i attached the droplinks when the car was up on the jack stands. So all i have to do is re-attach them with the rear of the car at ride height! Its gonna be awkward as f***. Thanks for the advice. :nice:
 
You don't have to re-attatch them , just loosen the nuts/bolts enough to allow movement. It can be a PITA to tighten them with the car on the deck, but still do-able.

Also make sure you use grease on the bushings, this will stop them from creaking. The ones where they mount to the subframe are the main culprits.
 
This answers a lot of questions, mine has been squeaking like a million mice on loudspeaker since I fitted it.

I have a little tube of silicoln grease in my boot, is this what they were supposed to be greased with?
 
Do you think squeaking has to do with the preload issue? Personally i wasn't aware of that and neither is a lot of people who use this kit as there isn't any instruction manual saying anything like that.
At first i had my mechanic used water resistant grease. But since i cannot pay him a visit every time i hear it squeaking i use an oil spray meant for bike chains. This has helped a lot. twice a month and everything is ok.
 
saxophonias said:
Do you think squeaking has to do with the preload issue? Personally i wasn't aware of that and neither is a lot of people who use this kit as there isn't any instruction manual saying anything like that.
At first i had my mechanic used water resistant grease. But since i cannot pay him a visit every time i hear it squeaking i use an oil spray meant for bike chains. This has helped a lot. twice a month and everything is ok.
Click to expand...

I have a Whiteline rear ARB on the Teg, and the instructions clearly stated that the bushes must be greased, and that all tightening of fasteners should be done with the car at ride height.
 
All none free sleeve type of bushes, wathever in rubber or PU must be tighten with the car in it´s usual ride height...for myself i think the Free sleeve is good and more predictabel, but you loose the tiny little rate you gain when your suspention is compressing!

As far as lubricating/greasing the Free sleeve type or PU D-links, it´s clear that occures alote of Friction, must use a Silicon based grease on the assembly and spray a silicon liquid each mount! Try any plastic injection manufacture, they usualy use these spray´s(i know cuz I work in one) thay will sell you or send you to their suplier!
 
Glorious, took it all apart this morning and greased it all up. Hay presto, The awful sound has gone! Now i can relax and see what difference this kit has made! :nice: thanks again for the help! :bow:
 
pumpingiron said:
All none free sleeve type of bushes, wathever in rubber or PU must be tighten with the car in it´s usual ride height...for myself i think the Free sleeve is good and more predictabel, but you loose the tiny little rate you gain when your suspention is compressing!
Click to expand...

As for this, could you elaborate a little bit. 3months with this kit now i haven't realized any drawback on handling. I even think that when the suspension is compressed during hard turning the body stops rolling from a point and then! Actually there is no roll at all, and no sudden unpredictable reactions. Of course i couldn't be sure whether this comes from the ASR kit alone or due to the preload that i gave accidentally. Could you please explain more, the drawbacks of giving preload?
 
If you look at the OEM buches on the LCA you will see that the sleeve is not free on the bushes, it's normal when your suspention is compressing that the sleeve going to twist and since is rubber you will end up with a slight rate, very negligabel...but imagine you thight the LCA's with the car on the air!

When you will put the car in the floor you will end up with a bushing with bigger stress....you can shorten the life of your bushing!

As far as suspention predictability i also have the ASR and switch from my OEM LCA to Function-7 LCA!
I'm imprest of the less unpredictabel it is....i think it's the mixing of PU bushes and no preload sleeve....less flexing of the suspention coponents so better direct tranfer of your spring rate to the tires and no other parasital rates of flexing bushes and else!
 
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Dino, can you re-explain your instruction? I cannot follow it. So you said i need 2 jack stand, do you mean jack stand or floor jack? floor jack is to raise the car up from 5 inches to 20 inches. Jack stand is to just hold the car up after using floor jack. In your instruction you keep saying jack stand, and raise jack stand. I dont understand and dont know how many i need.
 
really usefull infor about the pre-load of fitting endlinks without it being at ride height, mine was sorted out at DMS but when i get my new droplinks (balljoints on them have gone :( ) il deffo fit them this way to be safe!!!!
 
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