Horn connector location and system description:
Theres a 2P connector under the drivers side dashboard panel on the EK9s and EKs... this is a switced live feed that comes from the under dash fuse-box and goes straight to the horn. The ground does come through the chassis, its the self-chasing horn mounting bolt that carries the current to ground through the horns metal body.
Systematically finding the problem
If you take the lower panel under your steering wheel off, find this grey connector (2Pin) and..
Checking supply TO switch
...check the voltage... between one of these pins and a good ground (Not the steering wheel side connector,,, and ONLY when your ignitions on!) you should either read 12v or your a 12v lightbulb should light-up (basic tester). If thats OK then you know its feeding 12v to the switch.
Testing the switch
Next you test the switch with a multimeter that has continuity testing (buzzes when a circuit is made) or if that isnt available to you use a 9v PP3 battery + a bulb and some wire. Put (BATT->BULB->2P connector (in oneside of the steering wheel side 2P connector.. out the other) then back to the little battery. Press the horn button and it SHOULD light-up (or buzz is multimeter continuity testing OR just read 9v if its a really basic multi meter) when the buttons pressed. If this works, then your horn switch is fine.
Testing wire between underdash 2P connector and horn
Next you need to go unclip the positive 1P connector from the horn itself. put a continuity tester between the pin that DOESNT feed 12v (from the underdash connector.. dash side NOT steeringwheel side) and the other end of the multimeter (or batt and bult
) to the 1P (single connector pin) that would connect into the horn... if this has a circuit (aka 'Continuity') then this wire that goes under dash to the horn is fine.
So at this point weve established youve got a live feed into the switch, the switch works, you have a circuit between the underdash connector and the horn itself, so the only thing left is ...
testing the horn
put a wire straight from the positive connector of the battery to the connector attached to the horn. If it beeps as your touch it then its working fine. and I would suggest undoing the bolt, getting a round or small flat file and cleaning the bolts shoulder, where the bolt meets the front panel and the threads *not too harsh on the threads.
Thats how to test the whole horn circuit!
When i had my alarm installed I found my horn had stopped working and somhow it was just the 2P connector that had come undone!
Theres a 2P connector under the drivers side dashboard panel on the EK9s and EKs... this is a switced live feed that comes from the under dash fuse-box and goes straight to the horn. The ground does come through the chassis, its the self-chasing horn mounting bolt that carries the current to ground through the horns metal body.
Systematically finding the problem
If you take the lower panel under your steering wheel off, find this grey connector (2Pin) and..
Checking supply TO switch
...check the voltage... between one of these pins and a good ground (Not the steering wheel side connector,,, and ONLY when your ignitions on!) you should either read 12v or your a 12v lightbulb should light-up (basic tester). If thats OK then you know its feeding 12v to the switch.
Testing the switch
Next you test the switch with a multimeter that has continuity testing (buzzes when a circuit is made) or if that isnt available to you use a 9v PP3 battery + a bulb and some wire. Put (BATT->BULB->2P connector (in oneside of the steering wheel side 2P connector.. out the other) then back to the little battery. Press the horn button and it SHOULD light-up (or buzz is multimeter continuity testing OR just read 9v if its a really basic multi meter) when the buttons pressed. If this works, then your horn switch is fine.
Testing wire between underdash 2P connector and horn
Next you need to go unclip the positive 1P connector from the horn itself. put a continuity tester between the pin that DOESNT feed 12v (from the underdash connector.. dash side NOT steeringwheel side) and the other end of the multimeter (or batt and bult
) to the 1P (single connector pin) that would connect into the horn... if this has a circuit (aka 'Continuity') then this wire that goes under dash to the horn is fine.So at this point weve established youve got a live feed into the switch, the switch works, you have a circuit between the underdash connector and the horn itself, so the only thing left is ...
testing the horn
put a wire straight from the positive connector of the battery to the connector attached to the horn. If it beeps as your touch it then its working fine. and I would suggest undoing the bolt, getting a round or small flat file and cleaning the bolts shoulder, where the bolt meets the front panel and the threads *not too harsh on the threads.
Thats how to test the whole horn circuit!
When i had my alarm installed I found my horn had stopped working and somhow it was just the 2P connector that had come undone!
