fault codes


fatboi

B16 EJ9
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
684
I was driving along the other night, and my engine management light randomly came on. I puilled over, switched the car off and then on again, and it went off.
I pulled the codes that night, and I got a code for tps (which I have a spare to replace with) and eld (electronic load detector?)
Wtf is ELD?
Please help lol!
Cheers in advance.
 
Only JDM spec engines had ELD, it's a device built into the ecu and alternator which monitors idle speed and corrects as necessary when services or loads are added I.e A/C, lights etc...
 
Aaaah, thanks for your reply mate. So I take it I'm just getting a code for it due to using a socketed p28 and not my standard ecu? Its not bringing up a light either way. Only the tps fault is occasionally bringing the light on.
 
B16a2 forgot to mention that. So the code is just cause of the ecu thinking that I have an eld when I don't?
 
@ Jimbo : from 92 , all honda have ELD ( electric load detector). Is not built in to the ecu , it's a circuit board attached to the fuse box . From some models ( till 95) is on the engine bay fuse box and for the later models a more complex one on the driver side fuse box. Is monitoring/adjusting the electric load on the engine. When faulty , causes the engine to run erratically on idlle.

@ fatboi : in your case it detects a error becouse of the harness. Mine was on after a type r rear lights conversion. When swap it again with the standard one , the code was gone :). So any damage/chage to the electric sistem the ELD will be on :D.

Here is the pre 95 model
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from 95 : ( the white thing )

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It's associated with the alternator hence why there are different plugs, 3 and 4 pin IIRC. If you use a JDM ecu with a UKDM alt you will always have a ELD code present, I've had this issue in the past, the ECU is looking for a 12v signal that the alt is not sending.

It doesn't cause erratic idle if faulty, the fuelling is Increased to raise the idle to prevent a stall with all services active, idle will rise to 1050rpm +-
 
It's associated with the alternator hence why there are different plugs, 3 and 4 pin IIRC. If you use a JDM ecu with a UKDM alt you will always have a ELD code present, I've had this issue in the past, the ECU is looking for a 12v signal that the alt is not sending.

It doesn't cause erratic idle if faulty, the fuelling is Increased to raise the idle to prevent a stall with all services active, idle will rise to 1050rpm +-


I agree with you on that but will have the high/fluctuating idle. I have done a JDM D15B ( 3 stage vtec) swap on my sister car ( 97 ej9) same issue ( 2000-3000 rpm when cold , 1000-1500 fluctuating idle when warm) Cheked the IACV , TPS , EGR , vacumm alt sort of things and the problem was the ELD. Swaped the fusebox and did some wiring swaping ( to adjust form JDM to EDM harness) and the fluctuating idle and code was gone.

ELD is a part controlls one of the main two sub-systems ( IACV and fuel control) of the PGMFI fuel injection system. And yes it does causes the erratic/fluctuating when faulty . The main device that controls engine idle is the idle air control (IACV) sice 88 and is controlled by at least the following sensor signals
Air Conditioning Switch
Clutch Switch (Manual Transmissions)
Electric Load Detector (ELD)
Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) Sensor
Engine RPM
Gear Position Switch (Automatics)
Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch
Starter Signal Input
Throttle position sensor (TPS)

So if the eld signal is not present the IACV will try to compensate the idle by the signal of the other sensor and the idle will fluctuate.
 
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I did also have a fluctuating idle problem a while back but that was due to faulty iacv.
As for the eld fault code, its not putting the light on, or causing me any problems, so I'm going to just ignore it. How do you clear the codes once I've fixed the tps fault? Or will it clear itself?
Cheers lads
 
I think the TPS code will be stored in the memory but will not throw the cel light again.
You could also do it by disconecting the battery terminal for 5 min and reconect it again. This sould clear any codes stored in the ecu. Also i recommend the ecu learnig procedure :). I ussualy do this in june and november when the temperature are hot/cold.

To clear codes and get the ecu in learning mode run your car to normal working temperature. Stop the engine , remove battery conection for 10-15 min. Before reconectig the battery terminals be sure that all electronics and lights are off (radio , ac , lights including booth light , interior light etc)
Start the engine , let it idle utill the fan comes one twice ( during this , do not use the steering wheel , door loking , windows or touch the gas pedal). After the second time the fan comes on get in to the car and wait until the fan goes off. Stop the engine and after 10 or so seconds ( use Immob light when goes off , start it again and drive like you normaly do.
The ecu adjust the base map to the environmental temperature and loads much quiker.

This is a learn procedure for the ecu to clear codes and adjust the base map.
You could also do it by disconecting the battery terminal for 5 min and reconect them again. This sould clear
 
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