EJ9 Civic
- Thread starter EJ Eire
- Start date
EJ Eire
Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2010
- Messages
- 197
Thanks man. Hopefully, no! Ah, it should be grand. I'm just going to label everything so that should there be an issue with short hoses etc I can hook it all back up again. It might appear a bit baffling when you look at it first if you don't have much exp but I had a good root around there yesterday and can see where the various hoses should be going so fingers crossed it's hitch free!
EJ Eire
Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2010
- Messages
- 197
Well, finally fitted the intake mani. Sounds much deeper and full than the standard IM and looks a hell of a lot better. Nicer pull and noticeably more torque too 
Paint the valve cover while I was at it too and colour coded the grille.
All is well except for this friggin rust hole. Easy to sort but going to have to be done at some stage. Also have no brackets for the DC1 airbox so it's wire all the way for now
I'll try get a sound clip from outside at some stage to give an idea of how it sounds now.
Couple of more bits coming soon so watch this space
Few random shots from today of how it sits as of now
Paint the valve cover while I was at it too and colour coded the grille.
All is well except for this friggin rust hole. Easy to sort but going to have to be done at some stage. Also have no brackets for the DC1 airbox so it's wire all the way for now
I'll try get a sound clip from outside at some stage to give an idea of how it sounds now.
Couple of more bits coming soon so watch this space
Few random shots from today of how it sits as of now
EJ Eire
Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2010
- Messages
- 197
Thanks man! It's not that bad at all when you get down to it. I made a write-up for other sites so I may as well throw it in here too! Might be of help at some point
Right, I've just done this swap last weekend so said I would do a bit of a How-To guide for anyone who is considering taking this on. Not that hard at all, just requires a bit of thought and research to decide where everything plugs back together.
Here's a list of what you will need:
1) Side flow intake manifold - I used the D16ZC IM but the most popular choices are either
the D16Y8 or D16Z6
2) New intake manifold gasket - Better off change it while you are doing the swap just to be
sure all the seals are good
3) D16 throttle pulley
4) Airbox/induction kit
5) Extra hoses of various diameters and lengths to allow you to extend hoses if needs be
6) D16 or B series throttle cable
7) You MIGHT need some extra wiring to extend the injector wiring but I didn't need to do
this in my setup
NOTE: In this swap I used the D16ZC IM. This setup does not come with an IACV unlike the D16Z6 and D16Y8 IMs. You will not be using an IACV with any of these setups so in the case where there are ports for it, fit your IACV from your D14 setup and leave it unplugged. This will just keep the area closed. Alternatively you can weld a plate in place to cover it.
Start by draining the fluid from the rad. This will stop you making a mess later on when you start pulling coolant lines off. With that done remove the airbox and resonator box to allow you access to the IM and TB. Disconnect all hoses and sensor wiring from the standard setup and label everything as you go. Should you have any issues when doing the swap this will let you put it all back the way it was a lot easier.
With all hoses etc. disconnected remove the fuel rail to allow you easier access to the nuts to remove the IM. There are seven attaching the IM to the head and also one on a bracket that you may need to go under the car to get to. With all these nuts removed take the IM off the car (you might need to give it a tap of a mallet if there's lots of corrosion on the block). Clean the contact area of all old gasket in preparation for the new IM.
Now comes the fun part! You may need someone to hold the IM to help you with this bit. Take the plastic bung off the PCV return pipe from the old IM setup and put it on a longer hose. Attach it to the IM as shown in this picture:
and and feed it through the gap here:
While someone holds the IM slightly above the studs pop the bung into the PCV valve hole. Run a longer cable from the coolant pipe that is beside this hole that will attach to the RACV later*. Lower the IM into place with the new gasket correctly fitted and tighten the bolts. The centre bolt through the small gap will take time but make sure it is good and tight when finished.
Now you can go about refitting the fuel rail which is pretty straight forward once all the hoses are good and secure. Run the vacuum line from the FPR to the small port on the front top of the IM as shown in these pics:
Run the hose from the EVAP sensor to the back of the IM (in this setup anyway). I had to fit a small piece of a narrower hose inside this hose to bridge the difference in diameter:
A short circuit is needed for the coolant lines shown in this picture. The hose runs into the left hand side of the RACV (when viewed from the front) and the hose referred to earlier as * goes to the port on the right:
Next you will need to transfer the D16 throttle pulley to your D14 TB. Once you have this done refit it to the IM and reattach all sensors. Fit your airbox/induction kit and run the hose as shown in this picture:
If possible fit the IAT sensor also.
And that should be it! Refill your coolant and start the car checking for any leaks of fluid or air. If you have hunting (like I had) if could be a number of things: vacuum leak from the hoses/seals on TB and IM or in my case a seized RACV.
Your final result should bring you from this:
To this!:
Anyway, I hope that's of help and if anyone has any issues don't be afraid to ask!
Right, I've just done this swap last weekend so said I would do a bit of a How-To guide for anyone who is considering taking this on. Not that hard at all, just requires a bit of thought and research to decide where everything plugs back together.
Here's a list of what you will need:
1) Side flow intake manifold - I used the D16ZC IM but the most popular choices are either
the D16Y8 or D16Z6
2) New intake manifold gasket - Better off change it while you are doing the swap just to be
sure all the seals are good
3) D16 throttle pulley
4) Airbox/induction kit
5) Extra hoses of various diameters and lengths to allow you to extend hoses if needs be
6) D16 or B series throttle cable
7) You MIGHT need some extra wiring to extend the injector wiring but I didn't need to do
this in my setup
NOTE: In this swap I used the D16ZC IM. This setup does not come with an IACV unlike the D16Z6 and D16Y8 IMs. You will not be using an IACV with any of these setups so in the case where there are ports for it, fit your IACV from your D14 setup and leave it unplugged. This will just keep the area closed. Alternatively you can weld a plate in place to cover it.
Start by draining the fluid from the rad. This will stop you making a mess later on when you start pulling coolant lines off. With that done remove the airbox and resonator box to allow you access to the IM and TB. Disconnect all hoses and sensor wiring from the standard setup and label everything as you go. Should you have any issues when doing the swap this will let you put it all back the way it was a lot easier.
With all hoses etc. disconnected remove the fuel rail to allow you easier access to the nuts to remove the IM. There are seven attaching the IM to the head and also one on a bracket that you may need to go under the car to get to. With all these nuts removed take the IM off the car (you might need to give it a tap of a mallet if there's lots of corrosion on the block). Clean the contact area of all old gasket in preparation for the new IM.
Now comes the fun part! You may need someone to hold the IM to help you with this bit. Take the plastic bung off the PCV return pipe from the old IM setup and put it on a longer hose. Attach it to the IM as shown in this picture:
and and feed it through the gap here:
While someone holds the IM slightly above the studs pop the bung into the PCV valve hole. Run a longer cable from the coolant pipe that is beside this hole that will attach to the RACV later*. Lower the IM into place with the new gasket correctly fitted and tighten the bolts. The centre bolt through the small gap will take time but make sure it is good and tight when finished.
Now you can go about refitting the fuel rail which is pretty straight forward once all the hoses are good and secure. Run the vacuum line from the FPR to the small port on the front top of the IM as shown in these pics:
Run the hose from the EVAP sensor to the back of the IM (in this setup anyway). I had to fit a small piece of a narrower hose inside this hose to bridge the difference in diameter:
A short circuit is needed for the coolant lines shown in this picture. The hose runs into the left hand side of the RACV (when viewed from the front) and the hose referred to earlier as * goes to the port on the right:
Next you will need to transfer the D16 throttle pulley to your D14 TB. Once you have this done refit it to the IM and reattach all sensors. Fit your airbox/induction kit and run the hose as shown in this picture:
If possible fit the IAT sensor also.
And that should be it! Refill your coolant and start the car checking for any leaks of fluid or air. If you have hunting (like I had) if could be a number of things: vacuum leak from the hoses/seals on TB and IM or in my case a seized RACV.
Your final result should bring you from this:
To this!:
Anyway, I hope that's of help and if anyone has any issues don't be afraid to ask!
kammy11
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2010
- Messages
- 2,132
thanks mate, thats a great write up! makes me a feel a bit more confident 
I've got the D16Y8 mani but I got a B16 throttle body with it, would you recommend I just use the pulley from this throttle body onto my original throttle body or just use the B16 body? Does it matter what throttle cable I get out of the D16 or B16? sorry for the questions mate just I want to get this done haha
cheers buddy!).gif ":)) :))")
I've got the D16Y8 mani but I got a B16 throttle body with it, would you recommend I just use the pulley from this throttle body onto my original throttle body or just use the B16 body? Does it matter what throttle cable I get out of the D16 or B16? sorry for the questions mate just I want to get this done haha
cheers buddy!
kammy11
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2010
- Messages
- 2,132
As far as I know the pulley off the B16 TB will fit the D14 TB so just swap them over. As for throttle cable, won't make much of a difference. I've an EK4 throttle cable in mine now and it fits perfect
Thanks man!
I will need to get a hold of a throttle cable 1st of all and a fuel rail for the D16 IM. I've got a B16 airbox for nothing so hopefully that will do the job save me buying a new airbox/induction, you any idea if the B16 would be ok? 
just gave you positive rep for the advice dude!
Last edited:
EJ Eire
Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2010
- Messages
- 197
Thanks man
D14 fuel rail will do you just fine man, reuse it! As for the airbox, measure the internal diameter of the airbox pipe and the external diameter of the D14 TB (can't remember off the top of my head) and you should be grand if they're the same. It should fit a lot better in the bay as regards mounting points unlike the DC1 airbox I have that's all secured with cable ties haha
D14 fuel rail will do you just fine man, reuse it! As for the airbox, measure the internal diameter of the airbox pipe and the external diameter of the D14 TB (can't remember off the top of my head) and you should be grand if they're the same. It should fit a lot better in the bay as regards mounting points unlike the DC1 airbox I have that's all secured with cable ties haha
kammy11
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2010
- Messages
- 2,132
Thanks man
D14 fuel rail will do you just fine man, reuse it! As for the airbox, measure the internal diameter of the airbox pipe and the external diameter of the D14 TB (can't remember off the top of my head) and you should be grand if they're the same. It should fit a lot better in the bay as regards mounting points unlike the DC1 airbox I have that's all secured with cable ties haha
thanks mate! Appreciate your advice
EJ Eire
Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2010
- Messages
- 197
Picked up a 4-2-1 manifold last night for a great price. It needed a bit of a clean but was in perfect condition, not a mark anywhere
Gave it a sanding and a polished it with some Autosol and it came up nicely. Going to fit it now tomorrow afternoon :bigthumbup:
Gave it a sanding and a polished it with some Autosol and it came up nicely. Going to fit it now tomorrow afternoon :bigthumbup:
johnd89
Ek9 Fan
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2009
- Messages
- 52
Great job, looks really well.
Love the twinloop and the IM swap. I have the same mods myself and I'm really happy with them.
I really noticed a difference with a full exhaust system after the bigger intake manifold swap. Even that 4-2-1 should give you good gains!
Great job!!
Love the twinloop and the IM swap. I have the same mods myself and I'm really happy with them.
I really noticed a difference with a full exhaust system after the bigger intake manifold swap. Even that 4-2-1 should give you good gains!
Great job!!
EJ Eire
Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2010
- Messages
- 197
Cheers lads, had a go at fitting the 4-2-1 last night but one of the bolts is horribly seized on the flange to the cat so going to have to get it cut off...two hours + of wasted work haha Ah well, should be an easy fix. Have a hole at the weld where the twinloop was joined so going to get the sorted at the same time, sounds like a dirty fart atm
Best of luck with the swap Kammy. Let us know how it goes for you and if there's any probs with the write up.
@ John: Ya, hoping it makes a good difference now. Pull is very good all the way to about 5800 after the IM swap but really struggles to keep the flow moving above that range to limiter so hoping this will let if breath a bit freer. What size exhaust are you running now? Where about's are you from?
Best of luck with the swap Kammy. Let us know how it goes for you and if there's any probs with the write up.
@ John: Ya, hoping it makes a good difference now. Pull is very good all the way to about 5800 after the IM swap but really struggles to keep the flow moving above that range to limiter so hoping this will let if breath a bit freer. What size exhaust are you running now? Where about's are you from?
kammy11
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2010
- Messages
- 2,132
Cheers lads, had a go at fitting the 4-2-1 last night but one of the bolts is horribly seized on the flange to the cat so going to have to get it cut off...two hours + of wasted work haha Ah well, should be an easy fix. Have a hole at the weld where the twinloop was joined so going to get the sorted at the same time, sounds like a dirty fart atm
Best of luck with the swap Kammy. Let us know how it goes for you and if there's any probs with the write up.
Thats unlucky about the 4-2-1 mate but shouldn't be too much of a problem!
Im not in too much of a hurry to get mines on atm as im only running a back-box so wont get the full impact. Although maybe just stick it on anyway whilst im doin the IM I will do mate, thanks again for the write up!
How you enjoyin the gains with the IM ?