Converting to 4 stud..


B

BACON

Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2008
Messages
318
Just a thought atthe moment, but I'm thinking about converting my ek9 to 4 stud (4x100) to be honest I only want to do it because there are a certain set of wheels I want for my car but they never made them in 5 stud.

But obviously I want to keep the standardbreaking power, front wouldnt be a problem I'd just buy a big brake kit, but any ideas for the back? Are there any disks that are the size I need and fitment I need?

Thanks
 
MG ZS180 260mm rear brakes fit on 4x100 hubs. Not sure if they'll fit the EK9 calipers and carriers though?
 
jordan101 said:
lol i think that in a way will ruin ur 9 m8, but everyone to their own :)
Click to expand...

Common thing to do to ek9 race cars in Japan , when they change the bearings they pop in a 4stud hub aswell for wheel choices
 
V-TEC ABUSER said:
oh dear jon....
Click to expand...


Jog on, bon voyage!

if I can find some way of keeping oem sized brakes then it won't affect braking, it will just have a stud missing in each corner, not a big deal.

The mg zs 180 disks also work on the front don;t they?
 
BACON said:
Jog on, bon voyage!

if I can find some way of keeping oem sized brakes then it won't affect braking, it will just have a stud missing in each corner, not a big deal.

The mg zs 180 disks also work on the front don;t they?
Click to expand...
yeah they do
 
Can you not just run ek4 hubs and keep your ek9 calipers and carriers and swap them over? Then all you would need to buy is 282 4-stud calipers for front, 262 for rear, almost sure you can as mate was running this on his ej9.

What wheels you looking at getting ? Sprint Hart CP-F ? If so, get it done!
 
Disk offsets are slightly different IIRC.
 
if he's running a big brake set-up up front surly you only need to run vti discs and hubs on the back. its not like you do a huge amount of braking thro the rears anyway.
 
Yea but he will still need to get vti hubs for front to make it 4*100
 
V-TEC ABUSER said:
if he's running a big brake set-up up front surly you only need to run vti discs and hubs on the back. its not like you do a huge amount of braking thro the rears anyway.
Click to expand...

Wrong, rear brakes need to be matched to the fronts for optimum performance. I have a 282/240 setup now and it performs worse than my old 262/240 because I lock the front brakes up way before the rears.
 
Kozy said:
Wrong, rear brakes need to be matched to the fronts for optimum performance. I have a 282/240 setup now and it performs worse than my old 262/240 because I lock the front brakes up way before the rears.
Click to expand...

YIKES! Really? Have any plans to revert or correct? to me, brake set up is as, if not more important than engine power.
 
Well it's hard to accurately compare as I have changed pads and discs too, from DS2500 and Black Diamonds to EBC Yellowstuff and EBC grooved discs, but it is definately weaker than the old setup.

The new setup sent my ABS spastic so I took the fuse out which improved things a little, but I am still majorly limited by the traction of the front tyres, as soon as they lock I have to let up, and this in turn means the rears are way off doing the work they are capable of.

I will get round to upgrading the rears eventually, but it will end up costing about £400 which is nearly 3 times the amount I paid for the fronts! :(
 
Last edited:
Kozy said:
Well it's hard to accurately compare as I have changed pads and discs too, from DS2500 and Black Diamonds to EBC Yellowstuff and EBC grooved discs, but it is definately weaker than the old setup.

The new setup sent my ABS spastic so I took the fuse out which improved things a little, but I am still majorly limited by the traction of the front tyres, as soon as they lock I have to let up, and this in turn means the rears are way off doing the work they are capable of.
Click to expand...

brake bias adjuster????
 
I did look into it, but bias adjusters only reduce pressure, they cannot increase it.
 
Kozy said:
Wrong, rear brakes need to be matched to the fronts for optimum performance. I have a 282/240 setup now and it performs worse than my old 262/240 because I lock the front brakes up way before the rears.
Click to expand...

this may be due to the brake proportioning valve, (the little valve in the brake system that adjust pressure proportioning depending on weight loading of the car)
when people lower their cars this effects the percentage split of pressure to front and rear of the car. I would say this is more likely to be the cause of the fact that you are locking the front wheels way before the rear.
 
My car is only lowered about 15mm, and so far as I know the Honda prop valves are not of that type. I know the ones you are on about, my Golf GTi used to have one on the rear axle, but the Honda valve is mounted to the firewall in the engine bay and I don't recall seeing any valves on the RTAs when I changed the bushes, which leads me to believe it does not adjust for load. I could be wrong here though, only a guess.
 
Kozy said:
I did look into it, but bias adjusters only reduce pressure, they cannot increase it.
Click to expand...

Well, if I am having front wheel lock up, well before the rear, I would adjust more bias to the rear to even out this issue. Or fit wider/stickier front tires. lol
 
Last edited:
Yes that would work on a balanced setup, but to do that on this one you would need to increase the pressure above what the front brakes see, which bias adjusters cannot do.

Anyway, enough about my wonky brakes, that should be another thread. Back on topic!
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top