Considering building a B20


J

JamieMathieson

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Joined
Dec 27, 2012
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172
Ive always fancied a B20 vtec and im thinking about building one using my B18C4 head.

Im making a list of all the parts, let me know if theres anything else I should consider.

.B20B/Z just whatever one of the local breakers have (or are there any massive differences between the blocks?)

.B18C4 head, new valve stem seals,reseat valves,possibly some type r cams

.Timing belt and water pump off the B18 seen as they have only covered 2k (is this belt fine to use on this build,or are there differences?)

.Balance the crankshaft , possibly get it knife edged and polished

.New big end and main bearings

.New piston rings and hone cylinders

.Golden eagle conversion kit

.Arp head studs (what ones would I need?)

.I will rebuild my S9B gearbox at work with new bearings and seals (I work at a transmission specialists) and possibly carbon lined syncrorings

.Ek9 engine loom prefacelife with obd1 conversion harness

.Chipped p28 ecu (will buy a suitable basemap until it gets mapped

This is all I have come up with, if there are any other parts ill need or if you have any tips for such a build please let me know.

Thanks in advance!
 
ive just helped a mate build a b20z, its still on basemap but its got so much torque already!

if your changing pistons and all that ive heard its best to go for a B as its usually cheaper, the Z is abit higher compression and we just happend to find a cheap-ish one

b16/b18 waterpump yes but im pretty sure we used a b20 belt

the b20 will need the PCV system adding to it, heres a link that might help...

Honda Crankcase Ventilation System - Honda Tuning Magazine

we got ARP bolts specifically for the b20 block with a b16 head, was listed online, easy! :)
 
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Get a new timing belt, for what its worth and for piece of mind.

What car do you have? im wondering why you need a Ek9 loom?
 
civicx3 said:
ive just helped a mate build a b20z, its still on basemap but its got so much torque already!

if your changing pistons and all that ive heard its best to go for a B as its usually cheaper, the Z is abit higher compression and we just happend to find a cheap-ish one

b16/b18 waterpump yes but im pretty sure we used a b20 belt

the b20 will need the PCV system adding to it, heres a link that might help...

Honda Crankcase Ventilation System - Honda Tuning Magazine

we got ARP bolts specifically for the b20 block with a b16 head, was listed online, easy! :)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice man, I'm planning to stick with the stock pistons and rods just now.

JohnOBrien8 said:
i owned a fully built b20 and to be honest id go b18 if i was doing it again!
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Really? Why's that?

Murray said:
Get a new timing belt, for what its worth and for piece of mind.

What car do you have? im wondering why you need a Ek9 loom?
Click to expand...

It's a genuine Honda belt that's only done 2k. I have an ej8 civic coupe,I needed that loom when I swappe it from b to d series
 
joe said:
Obviously wasn't built right lol.......
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Or he prefers the way a b18 drives?
A lot of people don't go b18/b20 for reliability issues, this is the main aspect where a b16b is superior ;)
 
They're both as reliable as each other if built and tuned properly.

My B20 is a very basic build and the torque and power delivery is effortless in comparison to a B16A1, never driven a B16B but I imagine it would be both smoother and faster.

Once you hit 60/70 the acceleration is on different planet to a B16.
 
^^ this!

Theres alot of info online saying b20's are not reliable. Id rather talk to someone who has built them (like we did) rather than reading someones oppinion online because if you build it right it will last :))

I used to own a b20b with no pcv, big mistake but ive since learnt. Even without one it ran fine but i would never go without it now after learning what it does
 
If you want to go 2.0liter vtec, go K20 type s! :))
I have a fully built NA b18c5 and it can run circles around b20s, all day long.

Was considering building a b18c5 into a 2.0 liter, have scraped that and embraced the K20 type s and man am I a happy driver, scared sometimes too.
 
Jake123 said:
Or he prefers the way a b18 drives?
A lot of people don't go b18/b20 for reliability issues, this is the main aspect where a b16b is superior ;)
Click to expand...

What do you mean 'drives'?

A B20 drives exactly the same as B18 but with more power and torque

Reliability is purely down to the builder - how its assembled and the run in period - after that i'd say its as reliable as any other build as long as the tune is right.

The B16B is not superior in any aspect to a properly built B20
 
a properly balanced b20 with a suitable rev limit will be as reliable as any engine, the problem is monkeys chucking them together an trying to rev to 9,
 
lloyd said:
a properly balanced b20 with a suitable rev limit will be as reliable as any engine, the problem is monkeys chucking them together an trying to rev to 9,
Click to expand...

b18r is a shorter path to a reliable 2.0
 
JamieMathieson said:
Ive always fancied a B20 vtec and im thinking about building one using my B18C4 head.

Im making a list of all the parts, let me know if theres anything else I should consider.

.B20B/Z just whatever one of the local breakers have (or are there any massive differences between the blocks?)
.B18C4 head, new valve stem seals,reseat valves,possibly some type r cams
.Timing belt and water pump off the B18 seen as they have only covered 2k (is this belt fine to use on this build,or are there differences?)
.Balance the crankshaft , possibly get it knife edged and polished
.New big end and main bearings
.New piston rings and hone cylinders
.Golden eagle conversion kit
.Arp head studs (what ones would I need?)
.I will rebuild my S9B gearbox at work with new bearings and seals (I work at a transmission specialists) and possibly carbon lined syncrorings
.Ek9 engine loom prefacelife with obd1 conversion harness
.Chipped p28 ecu (will buy a suitable basemap until it gets mapped

This is all I have come up with, if there are any other parts ill need or if you have any tips for such a build please let me know.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

What are you going to be using the car for??

Don't forget you will want a Skunk2 GSR intake manifold and DC2 62mm throttle body. Normal b16a/b B18C intakes will not fit the C4 head.

Type R cams are always a bonus if you have the budget. If built well would expect somewhere in the 200-210hp range but with at least 145-155Lbft of torque which is what B20 is all about.

I personally think they are a great investment. Easy extra torque which is what Vtec's lack.

Not many tend to fully built B20's due to the fact K20 swap is getting just as cheap. Been undecided myself for the past 3-4 years which to do.

If your just after a good lump of extra grunt with minimal work/cost, be happy with up to 220-230hp then B20 is for you. If your after having the best N/A 2.0L, with mega hp, reliability, efficiency, above 235hp :blabla: and don't mind spending a good few pretty pennies then consider K20.
 
one thing you all forgetto mention its that you ahve to use the b18 oil pump and the b18 oil sump for the conversion!! also a good thing if you can do get the oil cooler from b18 and put it on the b20 it helps a lot
 
tama666 said:
b18r is a shorter path to a reliable 2.0
Click to expand...

Would a stroked b18 not be similar to b20 piston speed? Or are you speaking of a sleeved b18,? Personally once i get my k24 and h22 projects out of the way, id like to mate my b16b to a b20, destroking a b20 is something id like to experiment with,
 
lloyd said:
Would a stroked b18 not be similar to b20 piston speed? Or are you speaking of a sleeved b18,? Personally once i get my k24 and h22 projects out of the way, id like to mate my b16b to a b20, destroking a b20 is something id like to experiment with,
Click to expand...

Alot of work and money needed to sleeve a B16b to 2l, does work very well though! :nice:
 
tama666 said:
If you want to go 2.0liter vtec, go K20 type s! :))
I have a fully built NA b18c5 and it can run circles around b20s, all day long.

Was considering building a b18c5 into a 2.0 liter, have scraped that and embraced the K20 type s and man am I a happy driver, scared sometimes too.
Click to expand...

Ive already got all of the parts for fitting a B series into my coupe so B20 would be the cheapest option from where im sat.

And I just like the idea of make a hybrid engine out of two ha.

KieranEG6 said:
What are you going to be using the car for??

Don't forget you will want a Skunk2 GSR intake manifold and DC2 62mm throttle body. Normal b16a/b B18C intakes will not fit the C4 head.

Type R cams are always a bonus if you have the budget. If built well would expect somewhere in the 200-210hp range but with at least 145-155Lbft of torque which is what B20 is all about.

I personally think they are a great investment. Easy extra torque which is what Vtec's lack.

Not many tend to fully built B20's due to the fact K20 swap is getting just as cheap. Been undecided myself for the past 3-4 years which to do.

If your just after a good lump of extra grunt with minimal work/cost, be happy with up to 220-230hp then B20 is for you. If your after having the best N/A 2.0L, with mega hp, reliability, efficiency, above 235hp :blabla: and don't mind spending a good few pretty pennies then consider K20.
Click to expand...

I have a skunk2 pro series intake and a skunk2 alpha 70mm throttle body. Would the c4 springs handle type r cams just fine?

Im just planning to keep the standard pistons and rods for now, just after some good reliable power
 
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