civic cup car build thread


If your going to poly bush your car I would advise not poly bushing the rear trailing arms,(the big bushes that are about 3.5")
Stick with the oem bush here

These bushes need to flex easily to keep the rear settled
 
b16 mini said:
If your going to poly bush your car I would advise not poly bushing the rear trailing arms,(the big bushes that are about 3.5")
Stick with the oem bush here

These bushes need to flex easily to keep the rear settled
Click to expand...


I think that's non-sense personally, I know that most people believe this but my DC2 track car has the rear trailing arms poly bushed and the car is very settled cornering and braking as hard as the tyres will hold. If you look at most race cars the rear trailing arms are solid bushed





FYI the hardrace camber arms are actually one of the best ones to buy, the ball joints are good, they are a strong tubular design and the bolts for tightening the ball joint are proper hex heads unlike the 6mm cap heads that most have
 
SPek9 said:
I think that's non-sense personally, I know that most people believe this but my DC2 track car has the rear trailing arms poly bushed and the car is very settled cornering and braking as hard as the tyres will hold. If you look at most race cars the rear trailing arms are solid bushed
Click to expand...

Interesting,
When I had energy suspension bushes in my ek4 it always felt twitchy,
It felt better with oem bushes,

I would guess rear toe setting would play a major part in getting it to stay settled with the poly bushes.

Spherical RTA bushes are probably the way forward for a track only car
 
SPek9 said:
I think that's non-sense personally, I know that most people believe this but my DC2 track car has the rear trailing arms poly bushed and the car is very settled cornering and braking as hard as the tyres will hold. If you look at most race cars the rear trailing arms are solid bushed





FYI the hardrace camber arms are actually one of the best ones to buy, the ball joints are good, they are a strong tubular design and the bolts for tightening the ball joint are proper hex heads unlike the 6mm cap heads that most have
Click to expand...

Ahh well maybe mine are not hard race camber arms! Mine are the normal style like buddy Club ones, not the tubular design! Hmmm....
 
ted777 said:
Good luck with the build mate. Could I ask you to take a few pictures of the cage? Esp the add ons from sw please? You'll love the way the ek drives!
Click to expand...

Hi mate not a problem I will get some pics tomorrow night for you when I work on the car :)

Dave
 
b16 mini said:
Interesting,
When I had energy suspension bushes in my ek4 it always felt twitchy,
It felt better with oem bushes,

I would guess rear toe setting would play a major part in getting it to stay settled with the poly bushes.

Spherical RTA bushes are probably the way forward for a track only car
Click to expand...

I thought the same about the current track car, it was always real lively at the rear and I blamed the hardrace rta bushes, but dialled the camber back 1/3rd of a turn and it's completely different car now.
 
My car is running neutral toe at the front and rear, and about -2 camber rear and its not twitchy at all fully polybushed with rear trailing arms polybushed as well

I run 12k front and 8k rear springs, if I was to increase the rear spring rates it would start to oversteer more and less if the rates are reduced (while keeping the fronts the same)
 
Mines around -2 now, was -2.5
 
what is the actual difference between say buddy club, skunk 2 and some of the cheaper sets off ebay, apparently they all come from the same factory and have the same part numbers etched on to the mouldings just re spray and brand them in their own branding, so what can be different....i think mine are a cheap kit off ebay but use the same part numbers..

Dave.
 
nice build that mate!

was reading the bit about getting the rust and the arches re done... only part on mine i can seee has rusted and gone weak is above the rear arches from inside the car my mate put his finger kindly through it the other day to test its strength! The majority of the arch is fine its just wear it meets the out arche right in the corner there and seems to be worse on the passenger side as opposed to the drivers side. What can be done about this and is it something i need to do?
 
ted777 said:
Good luck with the build mate. Could I ask you to take a few pictures of the cage? Esp the add ons from sw please? You'll love the way the ek drives!
Click to expand...

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Managed to do a bit more work on the car this evening, started prepping the interior to be painted and cutting out the doors as best as possible with what had already been roughly cut out!

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here is a pic of prepping the inside...

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Starting to come along, been on track with spec9 and think I seen this car practicing at a track skills day. As said my dc2 was running hard race full bush kit and never had any problems there far superior to the energy ones I had them aswell and although good not the same as hard race
 
muhammadravat9 said:
Very cool build. Top work! What weight u aiming for?
Click to expand...

thanks, i am not too sure yet whatever the regulations are for the civic cup. I need to check this out lol! i have stripped the whole car so i will probably need to add weight but at least i can balance the car properly.
 
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