Bedding in New Disc & Pads (DS2500)


Bon87

DC2 ITR Owner
Joined
Nov 26, 2007
Messages
1,524
The search function isnt very good. I struggled to find a concrete answer. It just raises more questions. I will continue to search while I post this!

My question here is how to put the 'heat cycle' through the new disc while bedding in new pads also. Ferodo says put heat cycle through disc before bedding new pads!? Read on please....

This is the first time I've had new disc and pads on any car. (96 spec with standard 262mm setup)

I've gone with:
OEM Honda Discs all round
Ferodo DS2500 front pads
OEM Honda / Unipart rear pads (not purchased yet!)

Now there seems to be many ways to bed in new brakes.
I am familiar with the Stoptech method (a series of 10 non complete stops) which I was going to do until I spotted the ferodo bedding-in instructions that came with the pads.

Upon further internet searching, I just found another method where you drive gently for 100 miles then do the series of stops.

Then I read on the Ferodo site, it says the following which has confused me even more;
FERODO (website) BEDDING-IN INSTRUCTIONS
When bedding in the car always try to bed on used rotors. If bedding on new rotors follow the rotor bedding instructions of the manufacturer, as it is important to heat cycle them first before bedding the pads.

I was planning on following the ferodo pad instructions but I've got new discs aswell. So what to do?
Or does it not matter?
Should I just do as ferodo pad instructions? (below)

FERODO DS2500's BEDDING-IN INSTRUCTIONS in box
To achieve optimum performance from Ferodo Racing brake pads please follow the instructions below:

1) Perform 25 to 30 trial brake applications, each of approximately 4 seconds, using around 50% of normal race pedal pressure. To shorten the procedure applications can be made along the straights as well as through bends.

2) On completion of trial applications return to the pit lane. Inspect the surface of the brake pads from the two wheels which have been working the hardest. There should be evidence of contact over the full pad area but without glazing. The pads are now ready to race.

Whilst we recommend that pads are inspected, if time does not allow this, assuming procedure (1) has been carried out and a short period of time has elapsed to allow the brake system to cool, the pads will be ready to race.

IMPORTANT: to optimize the performance and life of both brake pads and discs, during the bedding-in period heat in the braking system should be built up progressively.


Its £300GBP worth of brakes here and I don't want to ruin them

Thanks for reading, any info will be appreciated.

Bon
 
Last edited:
ALWAYS used the stoptech method myself, done it with

New endless CCX pads all round and AP dixcel PD discs (about 500 pound of kit)
When i changed to Carbotech pads
New EBC blank front discs with Hawk HP+ pads
New project mu pads on dads FD2

Worked perfectly every time, really does get the brakes working well, just be sure that your wheels are torqued up perfect with a torque wrench and you won't have anything to worry about

I just did enough driving both times to get the engine up to correct running temperature before beginning the hard stops :nice:
 
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