BC coilovers?


Someone has just offered to swap me his meister R's for my bc's, not sure what to do now after what u have all sed. hmmmmmmm...
 
There is not much difference between the two. But ask yourself why is he swapping? Maybe he too has spring rates unsuitable
 
i did ask myself that, i also asked him lol so i'll see what he says.

is there a write up on spring rates on here? as i don't have a clue, how do i know what ones i have on my car? or what different rates actually do?
 
I put these on my Jordan and was very impressed. granted I haven't tried the miester r's but i would recommend my BC's to anyone.
 
Steve said:
you can adjust the height on the BC's without affecting the spring preload.
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You can with most decent coilovers nowadays

I'd recommend MEister R over BC for the UK for one reason and that's that theyre dampened for UK roads so ride a lot better. a lot less chance of blowing them and the Zeta R go really stiff when you need it for track or the backroads

Plus the customer support is second to none
 
Frodo said:
You can with most decent coilovers nowadays

I'd recommend MEister R over BC for the UK for one reason and that's that theyre dampened for UK roads so ride a lot better. a lot less chance of blowing them and the Zeta R go really stiff when you need it for track or the backroads

Plus the customer support is second to none
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I'd also go with this :drive:
 
Well, I'll add in a little bits here, just "food for thought".
As I do see a few information about suspension that is a little bit bias and I'll just want to throw in the other side of the coin.

1. Damping curve (Progress to Digressive)

That is actually a normal curve for a needle valve mono-tube dampers.
If you look at some of the damper curve from Ohlins damping curve, some of them is like that also.
A piston with holes and no shims will have a natural progressive curve, and a piston with holes and only shims will have a natural ultra digressive curve.
Having a needle and jet adjustments system "bridge" this two characteristic together, and that is why you see that.
You can limit the bleed hole to cut out the progressive part of the curve, but realistically it doesn't really matter because you won't really use the suspension at full soft on the road, just as you rarely will use the suspension at full hard on the road.

Another thing to remember is that you may not see the "end" of that progressive curve.
Main reason? Because the rebound speed of a suspension is naturally limiting.
Simply put, you won't ever see 0.3m/s of rebound speed in the real world because the springs will not store enough energy to "push" the damper out at that speed.
Therefore, even if the curve is progressive, if you don't see the "hard" end of that scale it wouldn't really matter.

2. Made in Taiwan, must be crap. :secret:

You will be shock to know that many component are now made in Taiwan not because of price, but because of quality.

If you don't believe me, give Ohlins a call.
I can tell you that the the body shell of their DFV suspension are made in Taiwan without a doubt.
That is because they use drawn tubing for their shell, and Taiwan makes the best drawn tubing in the world.
(It also mean 90% of the missile in the U.S. Military are from Taiwan also)

I am not saying all Taiwanese product are good (just as not all USA or British products are good), I am just showing the other end of the coin to even out the discussion a bit. :)
 
Do you discover them to challenging or to soft?
You could get them set up appropriate and modify the damping to what you like.
Had them on my ek9 and discovered them to handly great.
 
I've got BC's on three of my cars (one drift 200SX, one trackday M3 and one road fun EK). I could be biased as I sell them. But I also sell a whole range of coilovers incl cheaper kits and more expensive well known brands.

I reckon these are the best bang for buck if your spending mid range money. Any handling problems will be down to setup. Once fitted, go back to standard camber, castor and toe and work from there. Damping is your own preference but stiffer is best on track. Front to rear stiffness ratio depends upon what your car is down. Simples!

Mike
Corby Motorsport
 
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Kozy said:
I wouldn't touch them personally, just another generic tiawanese coilover company with one damper and 50 different mounts they weld on it.

They have vaving that goes from progressive to digressive. This is a nightmare to 'set up' as it will never feel right, if you set it so the high speed daming is good enough to keep the tyre planted on the road, the low speed damping will be so low the car will wallow. Set it so the car is firmed up in the corners and the high speed damping goes through the roof and the tyres will bounce.
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BC are made in Japan AFAIK
 
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