b20z vtec build


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shaneb16

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Mar 30, 2011
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hi guys im replacing the bottom end of my b16a2 engine in my ek for a b20z1, iv done a fair bit of research into these and people say you do and dont need certain things and seems a lot of confusion to be honest? some say you need to use b18 cams and a blockguard and you must have arp rod bolts etc?
Im not looking for record breaking power figures or none of that i just want a reliable b20vtec? im thinking of using my b16 head(stock internals replaced) with prelude injectors, b20z1 block(stock internals), golden eagle vtec kit, arp head studs, and just new seals throughout and a chipped p28 ecu? can anyone tell me if this set up would be ok? or if not what id need? as iv said im not looking for the fastest b20 built cheers :)
 
I use the same injectors and std head parts, runs great.

The countrys leading B20 guru rarely uses guards with NA and he's built 200 plus b20's
 
As Lee said you don't need the Golden Eagle guard, not sure the reasons why but I read somewhere that it isn't needed. These builds are getting more and more common and are being built better now than ever before.

There's nothing wrong with using the B16A or B head, if anything it should flow better than a B18 head from what I've read but the B18 has dual runners so better for torque but then again you will be getting more torque from the B20 anyway.

I think a well polished, ported and skimmed B16 head is as good as anything out there and will give you more than enough power and low down driveability combined with a B20 bottom end. People use different heads with different cams, some use the B16 head with ITR cams, valves and retainers, others use the B18 head or B16 head and leave as it is with stock internals, there's lots of different ways to do it. Best speaking to Daz he'll help you out with it.

I have an ITR head on my B20Z and pretty much everything breathing wise is ITR. I just took mine to Anglesey then to get the exhaust sorted and it goes so well and it's not even running or sounding properly, the power delivery is lovely and it pulls fantastically well and mine is a very basic build B20.
 
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cheers thats exactly what ive been thinking really, is it right that ill need to run a socketed and mapped p30 aswell?
 
I'm not too sure tbh mate I can't really help you there. Give Daz a bell at DNR he'll be able to explain more about the ECU.

The only thing I can tell you is that mine was mapped on Crome on the standard ECU, that's all I know!

Sorry chap!
 
With stock rod bolts you won't want to rev it much over 8000rpm. Get a decent map and your good to go.
 
Edgar friendly said:
I'm not too sure tbh mate I can't really help you there. Give Daz a bell at DNR he'll be able to explain more about the ECU.

The only thing I can tell you is that mine was mapped on Crome on the standard ECU, that's all I know!

Sorry chap!
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Its Endless Horizon you need to call :))
 
Edgar friendly said:
As Lee said you don't need the Golden Eagle guard, not sure the reasons why but I read somewhere that it isn't needed. These builds are getting more and more common and are being built better now than ever before.

There's nothing wrong with using the B16A or B head, if anything it should flow better than a B18 head from what I've read but the B18 has dual runners so better for torque but then again you will be getting more torque from the B20 anyway.

I think a well polished, ported and skimmed B16 head is as good as anything out there and will give you more than enough power and low down driveability combined with a B20 bottom end. People use different heads with different cams, some use the B16 head with ITR cams, valves and retainers, others use the B18 head or B16 head and leave as it is with stock internals, there's lots of different ways to do it. Best speaking to Daz he'll help you out with it.

I have an ITR head on my B20Z and pretty much everything breathing wise is ITR. I just took mine to Anglesey then to get the exhaust sorted and it goes so well and it's not even running or sounding properly, the power delivery is lovely and it pulls fantastically well and mine is a very basic build B20.
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Yep we recon thats how mine makes such power for the spec - massive amounts of headwork done by the JDM engine shop who built the lump in the 1st place.
 
cheers guys got hold of endless today all sorted now can not wait to get it runnin :) will keep u posted
 
If you are having the block rebuilt, I suggest having the rotational assembly balanced, it will run a lot smoother.
 
Sorry to spam your thread, I've got oil leaking on my engine for some reason. It's coming from the sensors down over the block towards the left hand side of the block below the hose that goes to the radiator.

Is that the VTEC Solenoid does anyone know?
 
Daz/Endless.

I think he did mention something about a leak whilst I was waiting for it but it doesn't look too great plus it's making a right mess of my bottom end.

Are you having the same thing are you? Anything to be worried about?
 
Edgar friendly said:
Sorry to spam your thread, I've got oil leaking on my engine for some reason. It's coming from the sensors down over the block towards the left hand side of the block below the hose that goes to the radiator.

Is that the VTEC Solenoid does anyone know?
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Can you take a picture of where it's leaking
 
Edgar friendly said:
Daz/Endless.

I think he did mention something about a leak whilst I was waiting for it but it doesn't look too great plus it's making a right mess of my bottom end.

Are you having the same thing are you? Anything to be worried about?
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exactly the same... oil eveywhere...:mad:
 
Well atleast try give a better description of where the leak is?
 
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