B20vtec
- Thread starter manoloek9
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blinx9900
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WELL YOU DON'T NEED TO ASK QUESTIONS IN CAPS. But it really depends if you want to go NA or Boost? Judging by the low hp goal you want to go NA?
Well this is what you need:
-good header and 2.75" exhaust
-good cams with matching valvetrain
-high compression pistons
-upgraded intake manifold and throttle body
-a good tune
-a ported head will help get you there too.
Well this is what you need:
-good header and 2.75" exhaust
-good cams with matching valvetrain
-high compression pistons
-upgraded intake manifold and throttle body
-a good tune
-a ported head will help get you there too.
Yuu will need strong rods, a high comp piston, worthy cams to supply enough air and fuel, (these will need springs and retainers strong enough to cope with the extra duration/larger lit) an inlet manifold and throttle body large enough to supply the air, injectors large enough to supply the fuel (stock 240's wont cut it) exhaust manifold and system need to be large enough to expell the gasses swiftly. Then you need it tuned. I would recomend a well balanced rotational setup as you will need to rev the motor well above 8k to make your intended goal.
That lot above is NOT cheap. My 250bhp B20 cost me more than Most people pay for a good EK9. BUt it makes the power and has done for well over 2 years.
Daz
That lot above is NOT cheap. My 250bhp B20 cost me more than Most people pay for a good EK9. BUt it makes the power and has done for well over 2 years.
Daz
blinx9900
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20+ years of experience and you think the OEM rods aren't up to the task of a measly 215whp? And last time i checked cams didn't provide fuel...
20+ years of experience and you think the OEM rods aren't up to the task of a measly 215whp? And last time i checked cams didn't provide fuel...
Build it right, build it once Sir, the rods can take the power, but you need to rev it to make the power and the stock rods dont like revs. And lets face it why would you go the effort of fitting new pistons, balancing the crank, fitting new shells and not replace the rods
Also Im pretty sure that i mention Injectors. But just to clarify something for you as you seem to be in the mood for taking a jib.
The air AND FUEL enter the combustion chamber through the valves, the valves are opened by the CAMS, the longer there open the more air and fuel mix enters the engine.
There was nothing wrong with my post at all that needed altering.
manoloek9
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ok guys one of my friends selling me some itr double spring and itr valves with titanium retainers and ctr camshafts. would that be a good set up for my b20vtec with gsr head? or should i just get some aftermarket valve train? has anyone try to do this set up ?
ITR/CTR cams are good for around 220bhp with a worthy compression and good tuning.
Daz
JDMarron
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blinx9900
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Build it right, build it once Sir, the rods can take the power, but you need to rev it to make the power and the stock rods dont like revs. And lets face it why would you go the effort of fitting new pistons, balancing the crank, fitting new shells and not replace the rods
Also Im pretty sure that i mention Injectors. But just to clarify something for you as you seem to be in the mood for taking a jib.
The air AND FUEL enter the combustion chamber through the valves, the valves are opened by the CAMS, the longer there open the more air and fuel mix enters the engine.
There was nothing wrong with my post at all that needed altering.
Factory rods can easily handle revs, at least 8000rpm on a b20, i have never seen a rod failure from a naturally aspirated b series.
build it right? simple:
-84mm nippon ITR spec pistons $200 (about 11.8:1)
-factory rods and crank $free
-ACL bearings/thrust washers $130
-hone,balance, assembly, blueprint, etc... $price varies based on area but about $1000 where i live
That's 1 b20 shortblock built right for a scant $1330 and more than capable of 215whp and 8500rpm. 215whp is not that much, people get so carried away and overbuild and waste money. There is no need for forged pistons/rods.
The problem of factory rods is not strength, they are forged, the issue of the b20 bottom end is that its not properly balanced to handle high revs which can be resolved with a competent engine builder.
Don't get me wrong, your way is not the wrong way, its just the more expensive way, if the setup i suggest and the setup you suggest were put to the test of longevity i promise you the one built by a competent engine builder would last longer, has nothing to do with forged pistons or upgraded rods, not at that power level at least.
...And sorry for earlier, my tone was rude, i should not have spoken to you in that way.
Last edited:
NP dude, we all have grotty days.
I agree with the build. I have seen rod failure on a nasp B20 #3 rod through block, over revved alot ive miss shifted my race motor a few times and recalled over 12k on one occasion and my IB rods are still fine. (thank god)
With regards to the spec coupled with a decent head package i would expect that to see good numbers. going on a rough 17% GB loss 215whp would be around 250 fly Horse power which is pretty much the figure i have using 11.8:1 CR.
Longevity is always the main priority for us when we build customers engines, we have a 100% reliability record on all of our B20's. Every B20 we do that requires internals, always has the crank set balanced.
Daz
RagingAngel
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I would feel better sleeving the block - but that's a cost issue.
If I had to choose between the block guard or say ARP rod bolts, I'd get the latter. Build the motor according to your actual use/rules/budget.
If I had to choose between the block guard or say ARP rod bolts, I'd get the latter. Build the motor according to your actual use/rules/budget.
manoloek9
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i agree with sleeving the block but $$$ is a issue. i know its the best way to built it. im goin to see how the block will hold with the head set up im goin to do for right know. i have a extra fresh b20 block. ill fix that later but i want to see how a stock bottom b20 hold.