B18c or B20


the b20b has very weak con rods. PLS for the love of god , if you want to rev past 8k . pls go for H beam con rods and do a full crank balancing.
i've seen so many b20b destroyed due to the con rods giving way.
 
I won't be reving past 8 if i Wanted to rev past that il just stroke my b16b
freewilly said:
the b20b has very weak con rods. PLS for the love of god , if you want to rev past 8k . pls go for H beam con rods and do a full crank balancing.
i've seen so many b20b destroyed due to the con rods giving way.
Click to expand...
 
Guys this is what my b20 vtec will be-

Ctr head,
Ctr inlet manifold
Hondata inlet gasket
2.5 inch exhaust/de-cat
Rmf narrow headers
Jun type 3 cams
Buddy club adjustable cam gears
Supertech valve train
Golden eagle vtec kit
Arp b18c head studs
Cusco oil catch can
B20b block
84.5mm Wiseco 11.5 OR 12.1 pistons
B20b rods
Arp rod bolts
Acl bearings
B20b crank
Itr p72 water/oil pump, timing belt
Oem Honda head gasket
B20b rods
Power fc
All new gaskets and thermostat Oem
Close ratio 3,4,5 (Going to speak with m-factory) ;);)
4.9 final drive by m factory ;);)
Cusco mz LSD
Act 6 puck clutch
Exedy flywheel.

I'm open to advise from you guys to change or improve something.
Thanks all for your comments........

LET THE B20 vtecccccc beginnnnn ;););)
 
nikolas-type rs said:
Guys this is what my b20 vtec will be-

Ctr head,
Ctr inlet manifold
Hondata inlet gasket
2.5 inch exhaust/de-cat
Rmf narrow headers
Jun type 3 cams
Buddy club adjustable cam gears
Supertech valve train
Golden eagle vtec kit
Arp b18c head studs
Cusco oil catch can
B20b block
84.5mm Wiseco 11.5 OR 12.1 pistons
B20b rods
Arp rod bolts
Acl bearings
B20b crank
Itr p72 water/oil pump, timing belt
Oem Honda head gasket
B20b rods
Power fc
All new gaskets and thermostat Oem
Close ratio 3,4,5 (Going to speak with m-factory) ;);)
4.9 final drive by m factory ;);)
Cusco mz LSD
Act 6 puck clutch
Exedy flywheel.

I'm open to advise from you guys to change or improve something.
Thanks all for your comments........

LET THE B20 vtecccccc beginnnnn ;););)
Click to expand...
Good choice. B18s are great but a well built and tuned b20 is more than a match.
Mine has been revving to 8200 rpm for near 6 months now without a problem and theres no need to rev higher.

To quote daz on the crx forums who built my engine and many other b20s
"If you have a B20 making less than a B18 I think your taking it to the wrong tuner"

Just to add, I was told a decat and 3" exhaust would have seen me make closer to 230bhp on my current setup.
 
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Will you change anything in the setup mate? Is it Safire to run stock cams as the June r much wilder cams? 12.1 is best comp pistons to use
Zen said:
Good choice. B18s are great but a well built and tuned b20 is more than a match.
Mine has been revving to 8200 rpm for near 6 months now without a problem and theres no need to rev higher.

To quote daz on the crx forums who built my engine and many other b20s
"If you have a B20 making less than a B18 I think your taking it to the wrong tuner"

Just to add, I was told a decat and 3" exhaust would have seen me make closer to 230bhp on my current setup.
Click to expand...
 
I think the thing to remember about this whole B18C or B20 debate is the fact that the B20 has to be modified to develop 200Hp... Where as the B18C is very close straight out of the factory..

alot of B18C's are now at and beyond 100,000 miles and still running very strong.. How many B20's are there that have even covered 30,000 miles ??? i mean that genuinely i don't know how many miles people have put on theirs.. be nice to see what ileage people have heard B20's doing... ??
 
nikolas-type rs said:
Guys this is what my b20 vtec will be-

Close ratio 3,4,5 (Going to speak with m-factory) ;);)
4.9 final drive by m factory ;);)

I'm open to advise from you guys to change or improve something.
Thanks all for your comments........
Click to expand...

Forget the gears. They're great for a high revving B16 but on a B20 they'll just slow you down.
 
Topher-EK9 said:
I think the thing to remember about this whole B18C or B20 debate is the fact that the B20 has to be modified to develop 200Hp... Where as the B18C is very close straight out of the factory..

alot of B18C's are now at and beyond 100,000 miles and still running very strong.. How many B20's are there that have even covered 30,000 miles ??? i mean that genuinely i don't know how many miles people have put on theirs.. be nice to see what ileage people have heard B20's doing... ??
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Fair comment this, and a real concern for anyone who has had a b20 built to their own spec myself included. B18,s are pretty much tried and trusted as we know.
All i can tell you is so far so good for me with minimal problems. Make sure you use a reputable builder and tuner and you should be ok.

As far as longevity of engines is concerned jump on the crx forum and you'll find plenty b20s that have been running a long time without fault as they were built right first time around.
It was for this reason i went b20 over b18 and still think i made the right choice.
 
Fair comment ZEN, wasn't questioning the reliability of the B20 i just simply didn't know lol and thought it best to ask as then others wandering the same can get educated along with myself.
I guess the comment of built right first time cannot be stressed enough ;)

Good to hear yours is still strong.. 221 Hp with all that tourque Jeeeeeeeeeeezsus !!! lol
 
Ok I will speak with the guys an m factory then so They advise me what's the best gearing then. Is the rest of the setup good for a 200 whp mark??? Well that's my aim around about tha mark
Kozy said:
Forget the gears. They're great for a high revving B16 but on a B20 they'll just slow you down.
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TBH I would stick with the stock gearing, maybe a 4.7 final at the most. If you did a 3/4/5 and 4.9 you'd be limiting the car to around 110mph without any great advantage on the way over a car with standard ratios.
 
Good point Topher.

If my b20 ain't reliable I'm all over a k swap, time will tell.
 
See the difference a shorter 5th gear made to my b20? Posted the vid in the thread
 
Topher-EK9 said:
Fair comment ZEN, wasn't questioning the reliability of the B20 i just simply didn't know lol and thought it best to ask as then others wandering the same can get educated along with myself.
I guess the comment of built right first time cannot be stressed enough ;)
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Too right. I did question the reliability of the B20 though as no way was i putting money into an fresh engine build for it to fail on me. This is my daily drive so I need this car 100%.

Do enough reading up and you'll find lots of failed b20's just like you will with b18's.

Only issue's I have had were oil leaks. It turns out these were due to excessive crankcase pressures and I needed a better breather setup.
All fixed now with no leaks but I'll be getting a modified rocker/oil catchcan installed shortly to make it perfect.


Good to hear yours is still strong.. 221 Hp with all that tourque Jeeeeeeeeeeezsus !!! lol
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I like to round up rather than down.
222bhp sounds better :):):)
 
I want to build it once and build it properly. I don't like cutting corners i want a reliable b20 vtec.I hope the stuff I have gathered up for my build are good enough for a reliable b20
 
DART Block , Dart Head , TWM ITBS , Hytech Header with SS Works straight pipe ! :D

B20 a non vtec non type r block .... a non vtec unblanaced crank , and you know about the non vtec sleeves how they will appear after some high comp runs ...

b18c original block with LA sleeves dude.

SuperLAP CY's DART Block with SCAT Crank.

293amtv.jpg


Wiiiii
 
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Well... when Honda deside to make a 2 liter type R engine, they create K20.
But.... i think they bonus (not accidently) all b16-b18 engines with the advantance to built a b20 vtec type R engine!:naughty:
So you can built a (poor mans b20 vtec ) with a few $$$ or you can built a (monster) b20 vtec turbo or NA engine with plenty of $$$ equal power with a modified k20 engine.
Good luck with your choise!:woot:
 
B20VTEC with balance rotating assembly.

Should run a lot smoother.

Also look into aftermarket crank girdles (GE, ERL etc), will need align honing after fitted so the caps sit cock on.
 
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