B18c4/c1/c GSR if you want cheap power, B18C5/6/C if you got more money and want more power. The both fit, plug and play. Same engine mounts etc. Only thing that might differ is the ECU interface; you might have to get a conversion harness to put between your loom and ECU.
Things to watch out for:
- Make sure you have the right tools to replace the timing belt. Air hammer or this tool:
Make SURE you got one, don't expect you can just ask on a forum for someone to lend it; I made this mistake and it set me back a whole week.
- If you want to place any oil sensors, this is the time to put an adapter plate between your engine and oil filter! 5 minutes work with the engine out, at least 10 fold if you're unexperienced with fidling with cars.
- If you don't have a car lift or something like that, make sure you have a jack that goes at least 45cm into the air and enough stands. I dont like working under my car on only stands so I have 6 and 2 jacks
I would recommend at least 4, as you need to replace the shift linkage and for that you need to be under the center of your car. That requires of you that you lift all 4 wheels into the air.
- Make sure that you have all the stuff you want to replace or still have to buy when you begin swapping:
Timing belt
Waterpump
Tensioner
Other belts (PS, alternator etc)
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires *
Slave clutch cilinder and brake fluid for the hydraulic clutch *
Clutch *
Engine oil
Oil filter
Gearbox oil
Coolant
Assuming you're gonna swap brakes too, brake fluid
* Means that if you're absolutely sure they're alright you dont need to replace them, but if not, better to replace it and buy it together with the other parts.
Try to get all this before beginning with the swap.
1.) Everything in one buy means you only need to spend 1 or 2 trips of your time to the shop to get everything. I went at least 7 times to the parts shop and that has costed me a lot of time
2.) With that much to order, possible discount will be higher
- Make sure you have lots of WD40
Spray possible problematic bolts a day before you begin.
- Try to have some kind of rod or something for your ratchet. One of my engine mount bolts was REALLY tight, my 50cm ratchet wasn't enough. So I put the 1,5meter rod of my jack on it
It worked
- Gear linkage: on an EK you can also put EK9 linkage, has a better shifter. Get PU bushings for it while you're at it, costs next to nothing but give the whole shifting thing a tighter feel, as if you are directly with your shifter in the box.
- Try to find/download a workplace manual. Print everything you think you'll need for the conversion. I printed the timing belt replacement part and the engine removal/installation part. Especially the last one is very handy, when removing and installing you can tick off every step.
- Clean your engine if you want to. It's waaaay easier than when it's in (kinda obvious but you never know)
- Take at least a couple of days to do everything if this is your first time. And make sure you've got a roof over your head. Or wait untill summer
- Make sure you've got EVERYTHING with the engine; every sensor, valve, hose etc. If not, order together with the other needed parts.
- If you got an engine lift, but no balancer (or whatever it's called) take into account that if you connect it to 2 sides of the engine, it might tilt forwards or backwards. You can prevent this by tieing some rope to the intake and exhaust manifold to keep it in balance.
- You need 2 people for:
Taking the hood off
Installing the new engine (taking it out can be done by your own)
Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system and brakes
The rest can be done pretty much by yourself
