Spoon stroker kit


Blinx Couldnt Agree More M8 !!!

Skunk2 = AWSOME !!! I opted for many of there parts on my ek9. Intake Manifold, TB, Cams, Valvetrain, Suspention Components.

And many people seem to dislike the AEM Intake, I think its the muts nuts !! I have the facelift bumper, I removed the little vent thing on the bumper thats moulded in and voila the filter sits right behind the hole !! MAX cold air intake !! Sounds amazing and top end power was seriously increased !!

Just My Opinion - Cheers

Andy
 
for parts in ireland try the uk... tokyo express do the kit.... least u know where it comes from and can call locally . spoon europe also gives list of dealers about.

AS SAID BEFORE>>>> SPOON = RELIABLE
 
Stock JDM B18C crankshaft comes fully balanced, thats why its the best. SPOON crankshaft is same as OEM except they further balance it or something, can't remember.
 
thats crap, 2400 for used rods pistons and crank? thats crap crap crap, just buy a b18c shortblock and put it on :nice:

I with blinx on this one... to anybody who would actually buy this and install it in an engine...

nelsonHaHa.jpg


On the other hand, if you were to put it on display - I could maybe justify that .... or not... :p

Here's a vid, I shared with Jugs in PM:
http://www.definitivedriving.com/images/camberwear3/Run5.wmv

right click save as please!

I ran against some wheelie pulling domestic that would scare the **** out of a Tyrannosaurus Rex as it left the line - which is why I sat on the starting line for a full 2 seconds before launching myself

http://www.definitivedriving.com/images/camberwear3/timesliplarge.jpg

dynosheet:
http://www.definitivedriving.com/images/camberwear3/091104-4sae.jpg

IIRC, the motor is a Spoon B18C shortblock with a ported head from a local shop A&J Racing. It was fitted with Spoon cams and had a J's intake, Spoon header, Vision catback and a custom Ti-muffler. Other note worthy mods were Spoon camgears (forgot the settings), Spoon engine mounts. The car had a custom chip written with Techtom hardware for it. The car weighed 2270lbs or 2410 with me in it.

This is essentially what most could expect from the Spoon stroker kit for the 16B. Close gears 3-4-5 were also fitted though. Tires were A048s medium compound at around 15psi. This was over 4 years go as well. The motor has since been rebuilt with Mahle pistons and other new goodies :p
 
thats crap, 2400 for used rods pistons and crank? thats crap crap crap, just buy a b18c shortblock and put it on :nice:

Actually its RM 2400 Malaysian currency not USD, anyway i did't bought it. thanks for your opinion...:)
 
I with blinx on this one... to anybody who would actually buy this and install it in an engine...

nelsonHaHa.jpg


On the other hand, if you were to put it on display - I could maybe justify that .... or not... :p

Here's a vid, I shared with Jugs in PM:
http://www.definitivedriving.com/images/camberwear3/Run5.wmv

right click save as please!

I ran against some wheelie pulling domestic that would scare the **** out of a Tyrannosaurus Rex as it left the line - which is why I sat on the starting line for a full 2 seconds before launching myself

http://www.definitivedriving.com/images/camberwear3/timesliplarge.jpg

dynosheet:
http://www.definitivedriving.com/images/camberwear3/091104-4sae.jpg

IIRC, the motor is a Spoon B18C shortblock with a ported head from a local shop A&J Racing. It was fitted with Spoon cams and had a J's intake, Spoon header, Vision catback and a custom Ti-muffler. Other note worthy mods were Spoon camgears (forgot the settings), Spoon engine mounts. The car had a custom chip written with Techtom hardware for it. The car weighed 2270lbs or 2410 with me in it.

This is essentially what most could expect from the Spoon stroker kit for the 16B. Close gears 3-4-5 were also fitted though. Tires were A048s medium compound at around 15psi. This was over 4 years go as well. The motor has since been rebuilt with Mahle pistons and other new goodies :p

Cool....:nice:
 
i personally am 100% against stroking the b16b. you ruin its excellent rs ratio. i would (if staying all motor) spend 650-700 and get blox b's with there springs and retainers. with the extra $ get it dyno tuned with a chipped p28 or get a basemap from Phearable.net - Electronic Fuel Injection Tuning Solutions - Hondata, Neptune, Crome, Uberdata, Ectune, AEM, Honda Tuning, Widebands, Fuel Pumps, Intercoolers, Turbos, LS/VTEC, ECU Chipping, Chipped Ecus, P28 this will make more or the same hp as a stroker kit and you will keep your rs ratio and be able to rev to 9500+ reliably.

and there is a replacement for displacement: vtec, boost, efficiency, and rpm.

i will be using all four for my b16b look for a write up comming soon boost + b16b + 9000rpm.

are blox b's are a type of cam then? never heard of them before in the uk, any links to suppliers websites or anything?:)
 
B18C is a great all-round motor. B16B has excellent revving capabilities.

either way, you'll still be happy. Its personal choice really.

B18C
-more torque
-more hp
-satifaction

B16B
-needs more work
-rev fanatic
-add cams and you'll be up the top of the 1.6L class
-surprise enthusiasts that its only a 1.6L
 
Raging angel: as said, that motor has some damn potential running SPOON cams and Mfactory gears.
 
Hi! I'm going to use B18C crankshaft and B16B rods, this instalation requare shorter pistons (4.9mm less from top) like K-Tech, but i can't find any info about ...
My be somebody have same experience?
 
You would need to get a custom piston.

It would be easier to get the proper length connecting rod and an off the shelf piston.

Otherwise, you will need to know the exact specs and send it to the manufacturer who will process your order and it can take anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months. Cost is usually $100.00 more per piston IIRC (but don't hold me to that)
 
You would need to get a custom piston.

It would be easier to get the proper length connecting rod and an off the shelf piston.

Otherwise, you will need to know the exact specs and send it to the manufacturer who will process your order and it can take anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months. Cost is usually $100.00 more per piston IIRC (but don't hold me to that)

Ok, thanks, may be more easy to use stok rods from B18C,
Reason to use B16B rods is : the B18's cannot rev as high compared to the B16A, due to a larger angle created between the connecting rod and the crankshaft (called the "rod angle")as the piston travels. Higher rod angles increase wear damage and vibration due to increased piston sideloading on the cylinder walls. Rev too high and you can push a piston through a cylinder wall into the coolant jacket.
Exaple of stroker kit from K-Tech:
K-TECH ENGINE SERVICE
 
correct...the whole rod stroke ratio thing is important if you really want to rev to the moon :p

K-TECH, they work exclusively with Seeker I believe...great motors...!
 
ok read the whole way through this but got no answer

what are the pros of the stroker kit from SPOON and what are the cons.?
and what crank will be best used and rods too?
will this work on a daily driven car?
and prices for the spoon kit?
 
pros: selectively balanced.
Spoon has literally hundreds of pistons and rods they order up from Honda and one guy spends all day finding out how much each one weighs and then writes down the weight on the tops of the pistons and then groups them together to form "balanced sets."

cons:
For the price you're paying, many would rather get forged pieces since the Spoon bits are just Honda OEM.

Yes it will work on a daily driven car because it's just buying the guts out of an 18C motor.

Spoon Sports Product Catalogue
 
say you were to use this spoon stroker kit woudl you reccomend upping a size and getting teh block rebored? as with the new setup the piston woudl be moving down into previously un worn bore, due to teh longer stroke, or woudl you just reccomend a light hone with a flex hone? or nothing at all and go for teh stock size setup!?!?
 
say you were to use this spoon stroker kit woudl you reccomend upping a size and getting teh block rebored? as with the new setup the piston woudl be moving down into previously un worn bore, due to teh longer stroke, or woudl you just reccomend a light hone with a flex hone? or nothing at all and go for teh stock size setup!?!?

i personally always always always overbore when changing pistons, its just not worth it. if your currently 81mm go up to 81.25
 
How it is done properly is having the block overbored to accept 81.25mm (unless it is damaged and then you should go 81.5mm)

However, some have gotten away with just going with a flex hone as they find the condition of the cylinder wall acceptable. They actually take bore gauges to determine this as it is detailed in the service manual how to do this procedure properly.

Ultimately, for peace of mind, it would probably be best to have it measured and then decide what to do.
 
Back
Top