Oil advice and recommendations here!


Basically,

1st number = viscosity when cold
2nd number = viscosity when hot

Basically the maximum protection oil you can ever get is 0W-40. All the lastest performance cars use this, period! Nothing less. Mugen's new oil is also 0W-40

5W-40
5W-30
10W-30

are the ones that I would use depending where I live in the world. It doesn't snow where I live, so I use 5W-40 and 0W-40.

we've been through these numbers before in the sticky thread
 
Why not many manufacturers sell 0W-40 is because its too expensive for the wide market.
 
How much oil does the EK9 take as they come in 2ltr bottles so will I need two of them?
 
Cheers Anto. P.S the civic looks well good in that colour:nice:
 
you should also flush it a bit before filling new oil. I always purchase 5Lt bottle.
 
You guys are all off on the oil viscosity.
The lower the #, the thinner the oil. So the a 5w would of course be a thinner oil than the 10w, and the first number is the cold weight of the oil. Oil gets thicker as it gets colder so a 5w-30 is recommend for year around use in the US because the motors can start easily in cold weather with the 5w vs. 10w (used for summer/hot climates).
The second number is the multi-viscosity part of the oil. Like other liquids, oil gets thinner as it gets hotter. A 5 weight oil will be so thin once it gets hot it would not provide protection at high temperature levels, so multi viscosity oils that are in all cars today have polymer chains that are wound up and let oil flow at low temperatures, but unwind with hotter temperatures to let a low weight oil thin out less than it normally would. So a 5w-30 oil is a 5 weight oil that only thins out as much as a heavy 30 weight oil would when it gets hot, giving it 30 weight oil properties at high temperature. So multi viscosity oil does not get thicker when hot to provide protection, it just thins out much less than a single weight oil.
Also, oil provides better protection by itself (as in, just oil), and the higher the range between the first and last number call for more polymers to bridge the gap (as with 0w-40). This means there’s less oil there to do its job. That’s why I recommend 10w-30 for hot climates and 5w-30 for colder climates, as there’s less polymers in these formulas. Race engines however may call for different grades, like a 10w-40.
 
but isnt it obvious to put it short, first number is thickness and 2nd number is also thickness or level of protection before breakdown. still nothing protects better than 0W-40
 
Dino-Spumoni said:
You guys are all off on the oil viscosity.
The lower the #, the thinner the oil. So the a 5w would of course be a thinner oil than the 10w, and the first number is the cold weight of the oil. Oil gets thicker as it gets colder so a 5w-30 is recommend for year around use in the US because the motors can start easily in cold weather with the 5w vs. 10w (used for summer/hot climates).
The second number is the multi-viscosity part of the oil. Like other liquids, oil gets thinner as it gets hotter. A 5 weight oil will be so thin once it gets hot it would not provide protection at high temperature levels, so multi viscosity oils that are in all cars today have polymer chains that are wound up and let oil flow at low temperatures, but unwind with hotter temperatures to let a low weight oil thin out less than it normally would. So a 5w-30 oil is a 5 weight oil that only thins out as much as a heavy 30 weight oil would when it gets hot, giving it 30 weight oil properties at high temperature. So multi viscosity oil does not get thicker when hot to provide protection, it just thins out much less than a single weight oil.
Also, oil provides better protection by itself (as in, just oil), and the higher the range between the first and last number call for more polymers to bridge the gap (as with 0w-40). This means there’s less oil there to do its job. That’s why I recommend 10w-30 for hot climates and 5w-30 for colder climates, as there’s less polymers in these formulas. Race engines however may call for different grades, like a 10w-40.
Click to expand...

First number means viscosity when COLD
Second number means Viscosity when HOT
(Oil normally becomes thinner as it gets hot, but dont forget it has additives to counter that)

All explained by Castrol

Thats why I think, nothing is better than 0W-40 or 0W-30. With these oils, you can drive off without having the warm up your car, because of its thin state when cold.


YouTube - Tech Talk on Engine Oil - with Castrol
 
alright guys, welcome onboard. i didnt know you werent members of the website otherwise i would have told you sooner :)

glad to see you with us! Superb service always from yourself and great advice and information.

and btw, incase your wondering who the random is :lol: . its me, Martin.
 
jugbugz said:
First number means viscosity when COLD
Second number means Viscosity when HOT
(Oil normally becomes thinner as it gets hot, but dont forget it has additives to counter that)

All explained by Castrol

Thats why I think, nothing is better than 0W-40 or 0W-30. With these oils, you can drive off without having the warm up your car, because of its thin state when cold.
Click to expand...
I can see what that video is trying to say, but they say it wrong and end up contracting themselves.

They said-
"The hotter the oil gets, the thinner it gets."
True. Oil gets thinner as it gets hotter, the additives do not counter this property completely, they just let the oil thin out less than it normally would, as I said before.

Then the video said-
"The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold, the second number is the viscosity when the oil is hot."
This is misleading. When you apply this to a oil, 5w-30 for instance, it makes one believe that the oil gets thicker as it gets hotter, because the 30 weight is a much higher viscosity than the 5 weight. What they should have said was "The first number is the viscosity of the oil when cold, the second number indicates what heavier oil properties that same oil will take as it thins out and gets hotter." I already explained that more in my first post.

Also, the higher the range between the numbers, the more additives in the oil. The more additives in the oil, the less actual oil there is to do its job. The more polymers in the oil to achieve a high viscosity range, the more prone it is to shearing and breaking down and causing deposits at high temperatures. Thats why I would not use 0w-40 because never do I experience the need for a 0 weight starting oil and 40 weight heat protection on the same day.
 
I do find the 0W-40 thinner when I pour it out. hmm, why would castrol say the 2nd number is the thickness of the oil when hot then?

Well, 0W-40 is supposed to protect your enigne once the moment its turned on, because oil is thicker when cold and it doesnt protect well when its thick n cold. It probally maintains that viscosity and level of protection onwards as it gets hot.

I'm not too sure now, maybe we should ask Castrol. Because it IS a new oil and all latest performance cars use 0W-40.

But I get what you mean. They also have a 5W-30 type and recommended for high revving 4cyl. :nice:
 
Castrol is just saying that when a multi-viscosity is hot (0w-40 for instance), it might as well be a 40 weight oil because at hot temperatures they will feel the same. They just said it too vaguely.
 
Well, we all know when does the most damages occur and thats when its under the normal operating temperatures. Once its warmed up to operatng temperatures, not much difference which oil you use as long as its not something like 20W-50 on a 4cyl.

My opinion is that since this is where all the damages occur then its also where 0W would work best. But I think in cold places or winter, 0W-30 or 5W-30 would be better.
 
Most wear occurs when cold and the oil is at its thickest then. The correct hot viscosity rating is important too. For your cars 30's and 40's, not 50's and 60's.

Cheers
 
since yours here Oilman...or others...

I am using Silkolene Pro S 5W40....and it is using a lot! i mean a lot! especially after hard drives...

question is, is it Because it is Fully Synthetic or should i try using Pro S 10W40?

might have to go back to Semi......

so whats the advice?
 
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