EK9 -> K20 swap


Dang it! Ok so the porting took a lot out of me last night and it's only now I noticed my IACV is mounted the WRONG way!:wow:

We're all human!

Thanks for the compliments guys!
 
Ok fixed before breakfast!

img1045l.jpg
 
Ok so the bolts Skunk2 provides for their 70mm throttle body are a little too long for the Hybrid-Racing throttle body adapter plate so.......follow me!
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
Hybrid-Racing adapter, the bolt bottoms out before the tb is even seated:

img1047j.jpg


img1048ka.jpg


Skunk2's bolt:

img1049g.jpg


Now I can't find a 12mm nut anywhere so:D......let's use this:

img1050hz.jpg


img1051dd.jpg


Have the misbehaving bolt stand and watch what I have to go through!

img1052g.jpg


Have that misbehaving bolt wear the "dunce cap" while I clean my hands!

img1053qb.jpg


Tools I'm gonna use to shorten the bolt:

img1054y.jpg


At this point you're probably wondering why I need a 12mm nut so bad huh!
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
I screw the nut onto the bolt as "insurance" if I screw up a little while I cut then as I back the nut off it'll straighten the threads, cleaning as well.

WD40 is always good to cool and lubricate the bolt and nut:

img1059mc.jpg


Clean cut!

img1057lc.jpg


I bolted the tb up and it seats perfect after the 1st cut so length is good, I'll just repeat the same length for the last 3:

img1061oz.jpg


It seemed like soap opera to me SO I took all the trimmed pieces put em with the 12mm nut that just saved the day and say "F-U Skunk2 bolts"

img1062xz.jpg


Thanks for watching!
 
Ok guys so listen to something that's really messed up my brother hands me the wrong bolts, the Skunk2 bolts work just fine with the Hybrid-Racing adapter its the Hybrid-Racing throttle body bolts provided in the adapter kit that are a little too long to use with the Skunk2 throttle body.

Skunk2 bolt on the left and my modified Hybrid-Racing bolt on the right:

img1064rm.jpg


I hope I amused at least 1 person with my pointless babble.....
 
Last edited:
Got some parts:

Used DC2 forks:

img1066im.jpg


Poly bushings:

img1068we.jpg


Skunk2 camber UCAs, I have plans to use another brand since a friend of mine told me about his ball joint trouble with these:

img1069xv.jpg


The company I got my motor/gearbox from didn't send me the intermediate shaft and pretty much doesn't care about looking on the RSX being scrapped. So I had to buy 1 used on Ebay:

img1070ys.jpg
 
nice progress bro, glad to see u putting in alot of time and effort!

keep it up!
 
Ok so here I am again, the wires for the sensors on the throttle body needed to be extended, TPS - IACV - MAP - IAT there was also a solenoid plug that I eliminated from the harness since it's not being used. I wanted to neaten the wires as well run them in a nice somewhat "tucked" way around the throttle body so here's my go at it, again i'm always open for ideas and suggestions.


This is what I want to get rid off!

img1080yf.jpg


This you see here is an old H22A harness I had from my brother's CD6 Accord H22A swap(He wanted to be cool like his lil bro's GTuned CD6 H22A:D), I'll need wires if i'm going to be making length adjustments:

img1077iq.jpg


img1078ar.jpg


All of this rubber isn't necessary in this case so let's "undress" it:

img1081gi.jpg


img1082km.jpg


img1083j.jpg


I haven't soldered in maybe 7yrs not bad:

img1085yx.jpg


Shrink 'em' up!

img1086aa.jpg


So I get an idea of what kinda length I'll need for each sensor in this case first up IACV:

img1090gl.jpg


IACV done!

img1092ki.jpg


I continue for the TPS - MAP -IAT
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
All finished!

MAP:

img1097je.jpg


TPS:

img1099i.jpg


IAT all I really did with this sensor was shorten and install the sleve since it was long enough:

img1107c.jpg


Everyone connected!

img1104vnq.jpg


img1099i.jpg


Thanks for watching!
 
Last edited:
Ok I installed the fuel pressure regulator, the way I like to feed any of my fuel rails is what I like to call "return less", "return less" in the sense that there is no return on the fuel rail only on the feed. The reason I do this is because when you have your return on the fuel rail, fuel enters one side and leaves on the other to go to the regulator then back to the tank what happens with this approach is the fuel sits in the rail waiting for the injectors to open so as the rail heats up it raises the temperature of the "anxious" fuel within it.

So! The fuel pressure regulator is installed between a single port on the rail and the fuel filter(supply), the fuel coming in is cool from the tank so the fuel in the rail gets used and right behind it is fuel at a lower temperature waiting to be burnt.

Again many don't do this its just something a friend of mine and myself have been trying, let's see how it goes on this build.

Regulator i'm installing! Edelbrock 1728

img1108vt.jpg


I'll mount it here:

img1115kk.jpg


Gotta open that middle mounting hole a little for a 10mm bolt:

img1109df.jpg


It fits after a liltte tlc:

img1111ha.jpg


Cut off what I don't need:

img1112yc.jpg


Port through which the rail will be fed:

img1126bd.jpg


Get an idea how much I'll need:

img1117q.jpg


Clean cut!

img1119fu.jpg


I bought this tool to help with assembling AN fittings onto steel braided hoses, what as waste!

img1127jvv.jpg


img1128hh.jpg


DOESN'T FIT!

img1129x.jpg


Oh well I guess back to the 'ole' school way sore fingers after:

img1120nu.jpg


Even more sore fingers:

img1123p.jpg


Finished the feed for the rail:

img1124oy.jpg


img1116gu.jpg


Return from the regulator:

img1130q.jpg


To tank:

img1132ds.jpg


Finished:

img1134fk.jpg


img1135wc.jpg


Thanks for watching!
 
Last edited:
Ok! Let's see what we can do with the a/c condenser and radiator. Chicks love a/c!:D

img1141gw.jpg


Wires that had to be extended were a/c dryer, condenser fan, radiator fan. What I did was run the extended wires through the oem wire tubing for that factory look.

Dryer connector(Left) a/c compressor connector(Right) notice the compressor connector on the Type Rs condenser is a female.

img1142x.jpg


K20Z1 compressor plug is also a female so I have to switch the compressor connector on the Type Rs condenser to male SO! I go to the Type R's compressor and take its male connector.

Type R a/c compressor:

img1143dk.jpg


Works perfect on the K20Z1's a/c compressor:

img1144f.jpg


Type R's radiator fan shroud was touching the IAC so I had to trim it:

img1149lx.jpg


Better:

img1150q.jpg


Representing HR!

img1140og.jpg


img1139tg.jpg


img1138f.jpg


Power steering cooler!

img1161v.jpg

v
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
All done! All I have to do is fabricate a bracket for the a/c condenser, custom a/c lines, for the radiator I gotta wait on the Karcepts bracket from Hybrid then just trim the hoses to suit.

img1155bk.jpg


img1156qm.jpg


Look at the factory harness in front of the radiator and condenser, you can even compare it to my older front end pics. You don't see where I passed the wires huh;)

img1158cj.jpg


Thanks for watching!
 
Last edited:
I "scienced" up a bracket for my radiator overflow reservoir.

Had to remove the bottom section since it won't be used in this case:

img1167dt.jpg


I straightened this a little bit since it had an angle, this is the section I'll be using:

img1162ug.jpg


I'll use the oem nut to the left:

img1168b.jpg


Bolted up:

img1169lok.jpg


Installed:

img1170xy.jpg
 
Back
Top