Buddy club p1 camber adjusters


J700OCK

----JOHN----
Joined
Jan 22, 2008
Messages
2,558
Hey .

been offered the above for front and back camber adjustment . just wondering if anyone has previos expeirience with these .

worth the buy ???
 
i have the front ones in my car. they seam to be a good job bit hard to get at the top allen bolts with a tourqe rench when there in apart from that there gr8
 
You'll find that most camber adjustment arms (either front or rear) are of relatively the same design. For the rear use any arm that has the correct locking bolts etc, thats made from strong material. Try and avoid using anything that uses shims.

For the front I found Skunk2 the best. Not because they are lighter or use different materials than any other brand, but because they have the locking nuts on the bottom of the adjustment plate, making it easy to adjust them (and get to the bolts) when they're in the car. Having the bolts on the bottom of the adjustment plate also means you get slightly more clearance than other brands.

I'm pretty sure that there will be other brands out there that have the bolts on the bottom of the adjustment plates, I just have yet to see any.

Remember to swap them (use the right on the left and left on the right) for added castor (great if your using them on a track car).
 
I would say they will suffice as far as camber adjusters go, but if you adjust the settings more than a couple of times you will tend to see that the allen bolt heads will begin to 'round-off'.

I have the 'Hard-Race' front camber adjusters and they come with 12mm bolt heads - that are less likely to become damaged and still have a very good overall build quality.

Josh..
 
^^^^

or use the proper size allen key!

I have been using my camber arms now for more than four years, and adjust the camber every time I hit the track, and after five or six events a year are still like new.

Taking appropriate care would be the "key" I think (please excuse the pun).
 
^^^^
agreed i have never had any problems with the allen keys on mine

but i did here that the hard race ones are a good job
 
I have the front buddyclub ones on my 9 mate and they have been ace so far!! :) CLCM set my car up for me and he was impressed by them! :)
 
Ive had them on the car a while now, they are fantastic quality and do the job perfectly.
 
there is alot of brands, if you take your car to the track, you should need more negative camber so you can install a good brand, mines are buddy club too
 
i bought them . will have them fitted and get the car setup properly :p
 
Here's a bit of a tip:

If you have a mate who does wheel alignments, get him to set it to zero and mark it on the arm (no-one sees it anyway), and again at -1deg, -2deg, etc. With a scriber is best, although I've seen it done with a punch. Drilling is not recommended :lol:

Then you can adjust it yourself. I got the marks machined into the arms (very shallow grooves of course) so now I can adjust the camber with a jack and an allen key ;) Remember you'll need to put marks on the top of the ball joint to line up with the marks on the arm!

Essential for a race car!
 
Here's a bit of a tip:

If you have a mate who does wheel alignments, get him to set it to zero and mark it on the arm (no-one sees it anyway), and again at -1deg, -2deg, etc. With a scriber is best, although I've seen it done with a punch. Drilling is not recommended :lol:

Then you can adjust it yourself. I got the marks machined into the arms (very shallow grooves of course) so now I can adjust the camber with a jack and an allen key ;) Remember you'll need to put marks on the top of the ball joint to line up with the marks on the arm!

Essential for a race car!

got to say that is a very hand tip there buddy . il be having that done for sure . :thanks:
 
Here's a bit of a tip:

If you have a mate who does wheel alignments, get him to set it to zero and mark it on the arm (no-one sees it anyway), and again at -1deg, -2deg, etc. With a scriber is best, although I've seen it done with a punch. Drilling is not recommended :lol:

Then you can adjust it yourself. I got the marks machined into the arms (very shallow grooves of course) so now I can adjust the camber with a jack and an allen key ;) Remember you'll need to put marks on the top of the ball joint to line up with the marks on the arm!

Essential for a race car!

Don't forget to adjust your Toe afterwards it will be affected by camber changes. :nice:
 
Don't forget to adjust your Toe afterwards it will be affected by camber changes. :nice:

it will all be getting done by a company anyway . i will get the info off stevenek9 as to what he has his set at as when i was out in his it handles like theres no tommorow .

i also have toe adjusters anyway .
 
it will all be getting done by a company anyway . i will get the info off stevenek9 as to what he has his set at as when i was out in his it handles like theres no tommorow .

i also have toe adjusters anyway .

good choice John!:nice: Get it done by CLCM in edinburgh, they are best!!:clap:
 
Star performacne are also VERY good for wheel alignment, their machine is the proper laser one with printouts etc, close to you too

As for the comment somewhere in the first page about Skunk 2 arms being the best, this is not true, eibach/spc ones are the crem de la crem.... Huge forged aluminium arms with adjustment via a huge 26mm steel locknut, also have castor adjustment too, although they're about double the price of others haha

Tip for you though, the upper arms are offset slightly, fit the arms to the wrong sides as in the n/s arm on the o/s and o/s arm on the n/s

The offset of the arms allows for a little bit of extra castor if you do this and improves turn in and feel a bit. this trick works best with dc2s though as their arms have more offset (can also split and space the front lower arms on DC2s to do this, if only the ek9 lower arms were 2 piece!!!! :(( ) although every little helps! I've got my spc arms set to full extra positive castor :nice:

Fitted buddyclub arms to my mates dc2 and they are good quality though :)
 
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