Rybeans street/track Ek4
- Thread starter Rybean
- Start date
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- Aug 11, 2012
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Gearbox Time!
Out comes the box.
Did another at the same time, Jacks Eg6 from Civiclife, he complained of a slipping clutch and this is why.
Out comes the box.
- Remove air intake
- Remove starter motor
- Remove clutch slave cylinder
- Remove wheels
- Disconnect hub assembly
- Remove drive shaft on gearbox side, I ended up doing both in the end.
- Loosen gearbox bolts around bell housing
- Start loosening engine mounts AND support engine with Jack, never get under the engine WITHOUT someone else present.
- Lower engine down and slowly.
- I DO NOT RECCOMEND THIS BUT ITS HOW IVE DONE IT IN THE PAST AND I TRUST MY FRIEND AND I KNOW IM STRONG ENOUGH FOR IT
- Have someone strong support the top of the gearbox
- Support gearbox underneath on your chest so you can bench the box
- Slowly start to tease the box from the engine
- Once loose have the top person support the full weight of the box, two people if needed
- Wriggle out from under the box and have the top person slowly lower it onto the floor
- Wriggle it free from under the car
- Done, took around an hour or so to get it free.
Did another at the same time, Jacks Eg6 from Civiclife, he complained of a slipping clutch and this is why.
- How to properly destroy a clutch
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Posadita666
New Member
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- Dec 22, 2012
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This is a really inspiring post! love your car! 
keep the updates coming!
keep the updates coming!
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This is a really inspiring post! love your car!
Thanks for the kind comment. I will keep them coming.
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Sent box off to the only people I trust, Brosport. Synchros fitted and box checked over and re-sealed and ready for pick up the next day.
Always buy a new set of driveshaft seals when doing this job, either you will catch the seal with the shaft on re-fitting or they will be rubbish unless already been done in the past. Plus its just worth doing whilst here.
Always buy a new set of driveshaft seals when doing this job, either you will catch the seal with the shaft on re-fitting or they will be rubbish unless already been done in the past. Plus its just worth doing whilst here.
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wow the last time i seen this thread was on the start of page two some difference now il be turboin my next setup so il be followin this closely also if i sent u a rocker cover in the future some stage would u paint somethin cool on it id pay ya obviously haha
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Some more pics and a break down of the setup for you guys, weld porn ftw
Not the best quality pics but I'll be getting more through the build progress.
Alex is slow so has been a long wait lol but the quality speaks for itself. Thanks Alex @ Sheepey Built
Not the best quality pics but I'll be getting more through the build progress.
Alex is slow so has been a long wait lol but the quality speaks for itself. Thanks Alex @ Sheepey Built
- Sheepey Built Bottom Mount Vband Manifold
- Sheepey 3" Downpipe
- Screamer/Dumptube
- Precision 5558 Turbo and Ported Compressor Housing
- ID1000 injectors and Pigtails
- Turbosmart Hyper Gate 45 Wastegate
- Turbosmart Raceport BoV
- Sheepey 550hp Garret Core Intercooler plus Piping
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- Aug 11, 2012
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Wouldnt be worth the posting fee's from Ireland mate, have a go yourself just take your time, sure you could do something just as cool!
hehe both be boosting soon!
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- Aug 11, 2012
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300whp on the b16 and 450whp on the built b18 next summer, or on this b16 if I build it.
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- Aug 11, 2012
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- 663
Yeah, youre probably right. Been looking at similliar setups but as you said most are in the US. Romain is going to talk to me tomorrow so I can run through it all with him. The Turbo is more than capable of getting that power around 8-12psi, only time will tell!