Cool cheers for that. Practicality isn't too big an issue as I only have folk in the back once a week for football and for work I just have a laptop bag to lug about!
An S has come up at a bargain price from a mate who was going to sell it to we-buy-any-car but MOT and tax is up in April so was considering getting it and keeping it for a few months and selling it on for a bit of profit all being well. I can get it looked at by my mechanic before purchase to make sure there are no gremlins of course. He's after circa £3.5k for it but I'm reckoning it's probably worth somewhere nearer £5k realistically so factoring in £500 for MOT, tax and a service still have about a grand in hand.
As for the '9 I'm loving it just now (and have bought a few bits and pieces lately!) and it's costing me peanuts to run but knowing I was planning on selling mid 2012 and looking at the way prices are going I'm trying to assess whether the Mini would make an acceptable stop gap to shied me from losing too much cash in the mean time.
Flip side is the Mini isn't a very 'me' car but they can look ok and it seems feasible to get up to 200bhp with a few fairly easy modifications. Seem to get rave reviews everywhere.
never ever ever look at a R50-R53 mini and think £500 will fix it.. it just never does. they are expensive to repair and generally have gremlins everywhere. if he wants 3.5k for it and mini dealerships won't buy it (a good few buy for cash) then i wouldn't touch it with a bargepole.
common problems.
steering column bearings wear out very quickly
steering pump -leaks or catches fire (melts it's own wiring) £500 and a battery +ve cable if it's melted.
gearboxes made of swiss cheese on the earlier models.. £1000+ for a lsd box
dual mass flywheel leaks grease out and screws up clutch £500+ labour
rear top mounts wear out. front top mounts wear out very quickly and generally if the car has hit a pothole the turret will have domed. (bodyshop job)
gearbox selector arm seizes up (admittedly simple but not cheap part)
radiator rots at lower N/s corner if it hasn't got air-con (weirdly the air-con models don't :S)
thermostat if it hasn't had one it will probably need one
sump gaskets always leak
rocker cover gaskets almost always leak
track rod ends tend not to last more than 20k miles
power steering pipes generally leak after 2 years
O/S engine mount bursts pretty frequently
wheelbearings extremely common (they are rover parts after all)
rear callipers and handbrake cables are very prone to seizing up
exhausts rot very quickly and cost a fortune to replace
backbox brackets generally won't last more than a year and a half
flexi section on exhaust manifold tears pretty often
water leaks galore and when they reach the footwell module (BC1 it's silly money to fix)
seat frames and runner mecahnisms are prone to problems
water leaks galore into the boot swimming pools around the battery in the boot floor are especially common. catch it early no damage.. late and you'll need a whole new battery safety cable +Ve cable that runs the length of the underside to the engine bay
brake pipes if they haven't been done will most likely be rotten by now.
lower armbushes will be split if not already done. (subframe down)
especially prone to window motors burning out when the regulators seize up.
door check straps are always seizing up (can replace with the self greasing later types)
door lock gremlins where the window won't drop when the outer door handle is pulled also very common and require a new door lock unit (pricey)
theres more but tbh i think you get the picture.. not worth it in the slightest. find one that has been truly cherished and keep on top of it's problems and sure it'll be a great car.. but one thats a possible wbac car... i'd recommend sticking well clear of.
plus the performance of the earlier 163bhp models is pretty poor they don't feel as powerful as that
as for people in the back.. unless your 5 foot nothing and your friends are dwarves the back seat is a glorified parcel shelf