how much psi can i use?


adee-ek4

adee-ek4

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Question for blinx

i am looking to put a good turbo onto my car and i have noticed that that you said you should't go above 5-7 psi. is this on stock internal? can you go above this if you change your internals to aftermarket ones?

which turbo make do you recommemed that will give power right through the rev range because i remember you saying greddy kits dont give much power up top end.

thanks :nice::nice:
 
adee-ek4 said:
Question for blinx

i am looking to put a good turbo onto my car and i have noticed that that you said you should't go above 5-7 psi. is this on stock internal? can you go above this if you change your internals to aftermarket ones?
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i say this due to the high compression of the b16b, normally i dont put PSI limits on engines, its usually more related to horsepower production and tuning, for example on a regular usdm B18c1 engine most people are safe with about 300whp, it might take 9 psi from a large turbo to do it, it might take 14psi from a small turbo to make it, it dosent really matter too much. and yes this is all based on stock internals you certainly can go above this with aftermarket internals, about 450-475whp is the limit on forged internals with stock sleeves (notice how im rating the limit of the engine in hp and NOT psi).

a motor with forged internals and aftermarket sleeves is usually limited by the engine builder and tuner, if all is done correctly these motors have cranked out 800+whp at 45+PSI

adee-ek4 said:
which turbo make do you recommemed that will give power right through the rev range because i remember you saying greddy kits dont give much power up top end.

thanks
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well the greddy kit is not bad, in fact its a great kit as long as you can get it for the right price and its probably the best kit for anybody who wants less than 300whp. its a fast spooling turbo, it will hold power in the top end, now its not going to have insane top end power but it will give great low end tq which is perfect for fun street driving which is what most people do.

as far as making power through the whole revrange the greddy TD05H-18G turbo that comes with the kit is pretty good, even better would be a Garrett GT28RS turbo but thats a bit expensive, about $1200 for the GT28RS. both turbos are good for about 280whp with very quick spool up, anything bigger will spool later, for example i have a Garrett GT3076R which is much bigger, i spool at about 4500 RPM but i have GREAT top end power which suites my driving style so i love it!

feel free to ask any other questions.

see this thread for info on which greddy part number you need:

http://www.ek9.org/forum/forced-induction/3071-turbo-n-spending-money-max-4000-a.html
 
adee-ek4 said:
just to say its a b16a2 i am using :nice:
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if your using a b16a2 you should be a little safer due the slightly lower compression, this is from another thread i posted in:

blinx9900 said:
the turbo kit you need is Greddy part number 11550022 and comes with the TD05H-18G turbo NOT the 19T turbo listed by mad motors.

assuming you get the proper kit Greddy part number 11550022 i would have a custom 2.5" downpipe made for the kit instead of using the downpipe that comes with it adds about 15-20whp and the greddy downpipe probably wont fit cause its designed for USDM vehicles, everything else should fit, just make sure to make a custom downpipe, get the intercooler and you will be PERFECT!! id guess 260whp easily with that kit at 6psi.


also the price is very high on that website, is the price in pounds or euro? you should be able to get the kit for $2500 usd without the intercooler kit, the intercooler kit comes with 2 options, the 24V kit is $800usd and is part number 12050005, the 31v intercooler is about $600usd and is part number 12050007.
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i could lower the compression if i wanted to use more boost? am i correct?
 
what is the best website fir garrett turbo kits? or do you think it would be better making your own turbo ?
 
adee-ek4 said:
i could lower the compression if i wanted to use more boost? am i correct?
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yes, that is correct, changing pistons is the best way to change compression.

adee-ek4 said:
what is the best website fir garrett turbo kits? or do you think it would be better making your own turbo ?
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garrett does not make any turbo kits for hondas unfortunately so you would have to make your own kit if you plan on using a Garrett turbo or you go with a company that uses Garrett turbo's in there kits, the only 2 i know of are Edelbrock and HKS:

the edelbrock kit you would use is part number 1501 and it comes with the GT28RS turbo as well as:

* Garrett ball bearing Turbo preassembled with exhaust manifold and elbow, including coolant and oil lines.
* A new intake manifold preassembled with secondary fuel rail and four additional injectors
* Preassembled Russell fuel and oil lines with adapters
* Large bar and plate style intercooler with TIG welded cast aluminum end tanks.
* Edelbrock boost gauge by Auto Meter with A-pillar mount pod
* Ceramic coated Turbo piping and high flow air filter
* O-ring sealed compressor inlet/outlet pipe flanges
* All gaskets, adapters and instructions
* TiAL blow-off valve

the edelbrock kit comes with excellent parts, its a bit pricey but its well worth it!!

i cant find any information on the HKS kit, it may no longer be in production however Apexi makes a similar kit using an IHI turbo which is another EXCELLENT turbo for quick spool up, apexi kit is designed for the b16b engine but i cant find what it all includes or how much it is.
 
so what is the max psi you think you can use with 10:8 compretion? And internals?
 
like blinx said further up..... its not the ACTUAL psi. for example, if you ran a small turbo at 10psi and your car was tuned for that setup, if you then went and bolted a big turbo on and ran 10psi your car would most likely run lean and spit its guts out further down the road and thats just because the big turbo will flow a lot more at 10psi compared to the small 1.

So if you can give info on what turbo you are talking about running, then it would be easier to give an answer.

Cheers,

Bri
 
crazybri said:
like blinx said further up..... its not the ACTUAL psi. for example, if you ran a small turbo at 10psi and your car was tuned for that setup, if you then went and bolted a big turbo on and ran 10psi your car would most likely run lean and spit its guts out further down the road and thats just because the big turbo will flow a lot more at 10psi compared to the small 1.

So if you can give info on what turbo you are talking about running, then it would be easier to give an answer.

Cheers,

Bri
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Ok well its not really a turbo at all its a electric supercharger. and before you say it i no that there a bit on the dodgey side but am fairy sure its gona b one of the good ones. For example have a look at this vid:
YouTube - Force Flow electric supercharger turbo comparison
I'v showed the guy who is getting it for me this video an he explain its from e-bay an if its not n e good i dont have to pay 4 it. We're just tryin it out then doing a few dino runs.
I just want to be sure that it wont damage n e thing after putting one on.
 
lol all you will damage with that is your power, by making your car go slower. do you realise how fast a turbo spins to give you say 4psi? a turbo generally spins anywhere between 10,000 to 200,000rpm or so, what does that electric 1 do? 10,000 revs per week? lol
 
FF 4.0 Electric Supercharger Information

The Force Flow 4.0 base unit uses a super high powered custom Cobalt magnet brushed electric motor to drive its impellor rotor. At a typical vehicles electrical system operating voltage of 13.9v, the motor will typically draw close to 60 amps. However, by the use of electronic components, we have restricted the voltage received by the motor to its optimum operating voltage of 11.5 volts, where the motor draws 46 amps. At this voltage, the impellor will spin at 27500 rpm. This restriction is done as a safety measure for the longevity of the motor, if the vehicles alternator is faulty and creates too higher voltage, it is important to limit the risk of the motor fusing. Under normal operating conditions of the Force Flow Electric Intake Supercharger, there will never be a problem with unusual wearing of the motor or all of its electronic components.
 
FF X4 Brushless Electronic Supercharger Information

The X4 Electronic controlled brushless electric supercharger is the first of its kind in the world.

Working on the same principle as any forced induction system , to ram mass amounts of air into the vehicles air intake system. This mass of airflow is measured safely by your vehicles air metering system, the ECU responds accordingly with the correct amount of fuel to match the airflow with the optimum air/fuel ratio.

Increase of air + fuel = increased power output

In most cases, this system is a bolt on application requiring no modifications or extra parts to your vehicle. By far, the best way to get HP gains with going to the extreme of fitting expensive turbo or belt driven supercharger systems.

* High power custom brushless motor spins at 43000 rpm, 60% faster than any other system available.
* Draws 60 amps intermittently from your battery, easily catered for by any vehicles electrical system.
* Brushless motor means no maintenance, longer life and extended running times.
* Free spinning impellor causes atomizing of air to create cleaner combustion and better fuel economy.
* Completely safe for use with LPG.
* Adapts to any engine, petrol, diesel or duel fuel, 4, 6 or 8 cylinder.
* Up to 12% HP gain in overall power output and torque.
* Perfect application for vehicles requiring extra torque and acceleration response, especially in the bottom to mid range.
* Quality parts and construction. Developed and built by Force Flow in Australia.
* Sold as full kit with all parts needed for easy installation, instructions included.
* 1 year warranty
 
Seriously say it will give 1 - 3 psi will a stock b16b run ok and still b reliable?
 
electronic supercharger woudl be an absolute waste of time it will draw more power than it will produce,, save your money for proper engine mods,,
 
olly ek9 said:
electronic supercharger woudl be an absolute waste of time it will draw more power than it will produce,, save your money for proper engine mods,,
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correct, i think it would be best to stay NA instead of buying that electric supercharger, they are indeed garbage...
 
yes a perfect EK9 should not be ruined buy bolting crap like electric supercharger gimics to it!!
 
Just to follow up the charger was GASH!
It was a rip of product from e-bay in the end that resembled the e-ram unit from america.
We fanny'd around making it fit for about an hour then as soon as we turned it on i couldn't stop laughing at it. Ma birds hair dryer sounds more zippy. Worse than the bildge pump rip off. Defo not a quality products like a force flow.
N e way we did a dino run n e way an the car lost 1-2bhp.
 
lol, so i guess our warning was not good enough huh? its ok, i know some things you just have to do to find out on your own :nice:
 
yer well it dint cost n e thing an filled an afternoon with a bit of entertainment. The surch is not over though. Gona look into where to get the real thing an possibly do the same again.
 
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