i recently did the engine swap i am still investigatin whats happening the tdc is in right spot but the dizzy points middle of 1 and 4. Also i rewired the iab and left the knock due to the jumper harness also redid the cfk by pass. Theres no fuel going into the cylinders the pistons look dry.the car wants to turn over but nothing happens it keeps turning doesnt start.
gsr into civic problem swap
- Thread starter dommob03
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Accessory Zone
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What ecu are you using. If it has an imobilizer then you'll need the key from the teg. Or need to get the Ecu imobilizer taken out. That could be the problem since your not getting any fuel but its turning over.
its a 95 gsr into a 97 civic si .. i can hear my pump priming i got fuel in the canister i donno if i have fuel going into the fuel rail but i got so much pressure wherre the fuel rail connects its starting to seep out. \
Dizzy - i had to switch the plug on the dizzy and i took it out and didnt think to mark it didnt think that would have so much play or etc. i took it out put it back in brought the number one piston to the tdc and the way the camshaft is placed the dizzy will only point to 4 and 2 well in between 4 and 1.
ckf -(is what i mean) i donno if i havfe it right but i spliced the 4 wires. it says to join the c1 and c4 but keep the yellow wiring goignj into the ecu which is c4. also c11 and c14 brought them together kept the c14 runninh thru which tricks the ecu to think it only has one crank flunctuation sensor.
injectors i have no clue if theyre evedn injecting becuz the pistions are so dry u dont even see them shine inside the block when u take off the sparkplugs.
i also wired up the iab brought it thru the fire wall and attached it to a17 for the gsr obd1 i didnt know how to pin it in the clip so i left it hooked up directly to the computer . the jumper harness runs from the obd2a it runs the iab on a26 and runs to the obd1 to a17 for the iab i checked all pin outs. So i figured i could jus hook it up there and i didnt kno where to hook up the black wire for a ignition switched +12 volts so i tried the power for my deck. maybe that could be the issue.
since i am gettin no gas to the pistons but i have pressure coming from the part where my fuel rail hooks up but no gas inside the engine how to i check the fuel rail for fuel or if the injectors are working. im gonna double check all grounds and resand surface for maybe a better contact and gonna double check the wiring for the injectors. thanks for the reply if u could reply back it would be much appreciated im in a stomp and the performance shops around here are goofs lol.. i hope one of them read this thanks for the info
Dizzy - i had to switch the plug on the dizzy and i took it out and didnt think to mark it didnt think that would have so much play or etc. i took it out put it back in brought the number one piston to the tdc and the way the camshaft is placed the dizzy will only point to 4 and 2 well in between 4 and 1.
ckf -(is what i mean) i donno if i havfe it right but i spliced the 4 wires. it says to join the c1 and c4 but keep the yellow wiring goignj into the ecu which is c4. also c11 and c14 brought them together kept the c14 runninh thru which tricks the ecu to think it only has one crank flunctuation sensor.
injectors i have no clue if theyre evedn injecting becuz the pistions are so dry u dont even see them shine inside the block when u take off the sparkplugs.
i also wired up the iab brought it thru the fire wall and attached it to a17 for the gsr obd1 i didnt know how to pin it in the clip so i left it hooked up directly to the computer . the jumper harness runs from the obd2a it runs the iab on a26 and runs to the obd1 to a17 for the iab i checked all pin outs. So i figured i could jus hook it up there and i didnt kno where to hook up the black wire for a ignition switched +12 volts so i tried the power for my deck. maybe that could be the issue.
since i am gettin no gas to the pistons but i have pressure coming from the part where my fuel rail hooks up but no gas inside the engine how to i check the fuel rail for fuel or if the injectors are working. im gonna double check all grounds and resand surface for maybe a better contact and gonna double check the wiring for the injectors. thanks for the reply if u could reply back it would be much appreciated im in a stomp and the performance shops around here are goofs lol.. i hope one of them read this thanks for the info
im using the p72 ecu for the gsr engine hooked up on the harness i figured the jumper did most of the work for me except for the cfk bypass and the intake air bypass.. im wondering becuz i already had a knock sensor and i jus cliped it in and didnt change where it runs i still checked the pins and the jumper goes from the obd1a d6 to d3 on the obd1.
Althought the knocksensor wires should be red and yellow of such if im correct and it is plugged into the back of the block. im wondering if a problem, could occur if i used the air intake temperature thing that connects into the intake manifold and used it and rewired it for the one for the gsr ontop of the manifold maybe that needed a different clipping? even tho i was looking thru both models and it said the gsr had an iat that was ontop of the mani so i rewired it there.
in all said im wondering where the lines for the head go. considering theres one steel tubing attached to another. The bottom one goes into coolant the top one is attached to the head with a rubber tubing connectin to the top and jus a steel end. is that for a vacuum or coolant maybe the head isnt gettin a vacuum and wont start it isnt hoked up becuz i wantewd to see what comes out of it a vacuum or antifreeze. maybe that could be my simple fix any info would be appreciated thank u all..
if that could be a problem what does it hook up too and if i should maybe take out the cannister out of the gsr and replace it in the civic thanks all any info would be thankful its my daily runner.been without the baby for three weeks already
95 eclipse full exhaust cat back, headers, 4 12s 10 000 watt amp customized box, wide body kit, 19" konig,32" flat screen, carbon fyber buckets,greedy turbo intake and intercooler. etc
Althought the knocksensor wires should be red and yellow of such if im correct and it is plugged into the back of the block. im wondering if a problem, could occur if i used the air intake temperature thing that connects into the intake manifold and used it and rewired it for the one for the gsr ontop of the manifold maybe that needed a different clipping? even tho i was looking thru both models and it said the gsr had an iat that was ontop of the mani so i rewired it there.
in all said im wondering where the lines for the head go. considering theres one steel tubing attached to another. The bottom one goes into coolant the top one is attached to the head with a rubber tubing connectin to the top and jus a steel end. is that for a vacuum or coolant maybe the head isnt gettin a vacuum and wont start it isnt hoked up becuz i wantewd to see what comes out of it a vacuum or antifreeze. maybe that could be my simple fix any info would be appreciated thank u all..
if that could be a problem what does it hook up too and if i should maybe take out the cannister out of the gsr and replace it in the civic thanks all any info would be thankful its my daily runner.been without the baby for three weeks already
95 eclipse full exhaust cat back, headers, 4 12s 10 000 watt amp customized box, wide body kit, 19" konig,32" flat screen, carbon fyber buckets,greedy turbo intake and intercooler. etc
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Accessory Zone
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Do you know if your getting any spark yet though. Best to check this before you go trying to find out why your not getting fuel. If you have spark then at least that rules the dizzy and imobilizer out.
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i think you bought a blown
if your getting gas pressure, spark and the motor turns over that motor must have jumped timing before
if your getting gas pressure, spark and the motor turns over that motor must have jumped timing before
well i actually bought it from the owner that i personallly kno and it was in an integra which i drove recently before doing the motor swap to its destination even started it to bring it in the garage.. im jus wondering becuz i have an ecu which is labelled p72 c01 tthat would make it canadian. In regards to that the ecu looks for an 1) evap 2)b 16 oil pump or b18c and 3)vtec oil pressure switch which is obviously not on a jdm engine? IF this would be the truth would i have to put all these parts in some how or just get the jdm computer. considering it doesnt look for the "evap 5th plug on the fuel injection section." Also the crank fluctuation sensor and the vtec pressure switch. are those my only two ways around this or is there some type of trick. I double checked all my wiring to where it all goes and everything was install right. " map, tps,iacv,iat,knock sensor rewired the iab to a17 pink wire and black to a +12 volt source at my deck. could the canadian ecu b the problem For my 95 jdm engine ?
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Even tho the same ecu and same engine were runing together in a 95 integra.. please any info is good info also the gsr driver side shaft doesnt fit its too long on the stock driver side suspension components by an inch any idea? whats up with that sounds like a nightmare of a swap to me loll...
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which wiring harness are you using?
im using the wiring harness for the 97 civic si the integra one was able to be seperated it was hooked up directly to the fuse box and wired into the car it woulda been a mess to rewire all that so i rewired some of the plugs for etc the idle control vavle on the back of the mani fold i reused the iat and extended it to the top of the manifold i also rewired the fuel injectors and im about to rewire the o2s's today do i jus run the wires from the front of the car where the it hoooked up the exhaust manifold and wire them up to the one on the exhaust im almost about to send it into the shop any info is good info asap. I also rewired the dizzy and alt.
ps - i took out a d15bm out of my 97 civic si and put in a 95 gsr obd1 into the shell. driver side axel is too long about an inch i cant get lower ball jioint to get in thru the control arm. do i need a new shaft or do i need to use the suspension from the integra on the civic i doubt it but any info is good info 2-3 days away from shippin it to the performance shop for finals.
ps - i took out a d15bm out of my 97 civic si and put in a 95 gsr obd1 into the shell. driver side axel is too long about an inch i cant get lower ball jioint to get in thru the control arm. do i need a new shaft or do i need to use the suspension from the integra on the civic i doubt it but any info is good info 2-3 days away from shippin it to the performance shop for finals.