Mr Windscreen
Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2008
- Messages
- 129
I,m looking to fit a A/F Ratio and Oil pressure gauge. Has anyone any experience of fitting these? How hard is it and where do I connect them up?
Gauge Fitting
- Thread starter Mr Windscreen
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2008
- Messages
- 3,206
- Car(s)
- 1997 Ek9,1996 ek4 siR, 1972 b18c4 mini
its easy to fit both of them, afr gauge just requires a lug welding on the colector before the cat and a couple of wires, aem do a nice afr gauge, oil pressure is easy as well, you need to put a t piece in where the oil pressure switch (for the light) goes in the block then put the switch in the t piece and put the sender(if its an electric gauge) or the adaptor(mechinical type gauge) in the t piece as well and run the wire/pipe in to the car to the gauge, and then just a couple of wires for the lights in the gauge.
JDM Performance - AEM Wideband UEGO Controller
JDM Performance - AEM Wideband UEGO Controller
First I would ask... do you really need the oilpressure-guage?
You need a 1/8"BSPT male to 1/8"BSPT female adaptor with one or two 1/8" NPT female fittings. You remove the factory oil-pressure switch wire (pulls off) then use a 19mm spanner (or 21mm I dont recall which) or deep well socket. its located to the left of your oil filter.
Fit the adaptor into where the oil pressure switch was using a suitable grade Loctite, DONT use PTFE on the BSPT fittings as tapered fittings dont require tape.
Fit the oem sensor on the back of the fitting and if theres TWO 1/8" NPT ports on the sides then you need to buy a 1/8" NPT plug (tapered) otherwise if you cant get a tapered one use PTFE tape on these fittings. Always wrap the tape clockwise. twice round max and firmly.
Next your oil-pressure guage will have either a sensor to fit OR if its the mechanical kind then itll have a fitting and a nylon or other line thatll go to the guage, each kits diff so observe the gauges manual on this if your not familyer with these fittings. Just to the left of your battery tray theres a blank rubber grommet, carefully pop it out and puncture a hole just beig enough to feed the line through, you can decide where to route the lines yourself., just make sure its not kinked, against a sharpe surface or other non-logical routing. Small cables ties or electrical tape is cheap. BTW. that rubber grommet comes out behind the black AC condensor box, you can reach up there with your fingers.
you splice switched illumination from the ashtray light its easiest
A/F guage is a diff kettle of fish... you have the guage, a controller, a wideband sensor, a wideband output, a narrowband output.
So replace factory sensor with that, the factory sensors wiring needs to be modified for a couple of reasons.. you need to feed the narrowband signal back into it (so youd chop the OEM connector off and solder it into the signal wire and blank the ground off. Then youd put a 1K-ohm resister over the heater wires as the ecu HEATS your O2 sensor, if this is unplugged or no/incorrect resistance then the factory ecu with throw an error code "heated-O2 sensor" then te wideband signal wouldnt need to be used unless you get aftermarket ecu eventually. Youd also have to source switched live from the under-dash fusebox to power it and fuse it. also good earth. Some like PLX devices M300 require you to install signal filtering capacitors across the wide and narrow band signal wires and ground. This is to stop electrical interference.
THEn youve still got to decide how and where your putting your guage.
Otherwise you could have another fitting welded to your exhaust or test pipe suitably tapped for the O2 sensor. Then youd just use the guage as a plug and play and give it power.
Remember though, touching the oiling system when its not required is not the smartest thing you can do.
Even in my car I only have 4x guages, Ex-temp, boost/vac, Oil pressure & AFR.
All of which are essential to monitoring such a car. And if you do fit an oil pressure guage, makesure you build-oil pressure before you fire it up while somones under (car on ramp or axle stands) to check for leaks!! no oil pressure = no engine! =
You need a 1/8"BSPT male to 1/8"BSPT female adaptor with one or two 1/8" NPT female fittings. You remove the factory oil-pressure switch wire (pulls off) then use a 19mm spanner (or 21mm I dont recall which) or deep well socket. its located to the left of your oil filter.
Fit the adaptor into where the oil pressure switch was using a suitable grade Loctite, DONT use PTFE on the BSPT fittings as tapered fittings dont require tape.
Fit the oem sensor on the back of the fitting and if theres TWO 1/8" NPT ports on the sides then you need to buy a 1/8" NPT plug (tapered) otherwise if you cant get a tapered one use PTFE tape on these fittings. Always wrap the tape clockwise. twice round max and firmly.
Next your oil-pressure guage will have either a sensor to fit OR if its the mechanical kind then itll have a fitting and a nylon or other line thatll go to the guage, each kits diff so observe the gauges manual on this if your not familyer with these fittings. Just to the left of your battery tray theres a blank rubber grommet, carefully pop it out and puncture a hole just beig enough to feed the line through, you can decide where to route the lines yourself., just make sure its not kinked, against a sharpe surface or other non-logical routing. Small cables ties or electrical tape is cheap. BTW. that rubber grommet comes out behind the black AC condensor box, you can reach up there with your fingers.
you splice switched illumination from the ashtray light its easiestA/F guage is a diff kettle of fish... you have the guage, a controller, a wideband sensor, a wideband output, a narrowband output.
So replace factory sensor with that, the factory sensors wiring needs to be modified for a couple of reasons.. you need to feed the narrowband signal back into it (so youd chop the OEM connector off and solder it into the signal wire and blank the ground off. Then youd put a 1K-ohm resister over the heater wires as the ecu HEATS your O2 sensor, if this is unplugged or no/incorrect resistance then the factory ecu with throw an error code "heated-O2 sensor" then te wideband signal wouldnt need to be used unless you get aftermarket ecu eventually. Youd also have to source switched live from the under-dash fusebox to power it and fuse it. also good earth. Some like PLX devices M300 require you to install signal filtering capacitors across the wide and narrow band signal wires and ground. This is to stop electrical interference.
THEn youve still got to decide how and where your putting your guage.
Otherwise you could have another fitting welded to your exhaust or test pipe suitably tapped for the O2 sensor. Then youd just use the guage as a plug and play and give it power.
Remember though, touching the oiling system when its not required is not the smartest thing you can do.
Even in my car I only have 4x guages, Ex-temp, boost/vac, Oil pressure & AFR.
All of which are essential to monitoring such a car. And if you do fit an oil pressure guage, makesure you build-oil pressure before you fire it up while somones under (car on ramp or axle stands) to check for leaks!! no oil pressure = no engine! =
- Joined
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- Messages
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