D16z6 swap help!!

[Nikster199]

5. The charcoal canister has this pipe coming off but im not sure where it connect to I cant see any where for it to go

 

[TheBooosh...!]

Well we didn't get the engine to run we got it in and started wiring.
We had to change 2 engine mounts and modify the d14 power steering pump to fit the d16. Hopefully have it running tomorrow

OK well at least you got the engine in.

You had to changed 2 of the mounts for what reason? were they damaged? because the z6 should be a straight onto your original mounts, or do you mean because the EG mounts were still on there?

I do need some help on these few things
1. where do these plugs go

That plug looks like its just an extra from the 1.4 which isn't need on the z6. Just tape up out of the way.

And this

This is for the original intake air temp sensor (IAT) that comes on the 1.4 on the intake pipe, I'm pretty sure this isn't needed BUT might be worth getting a Honda round style plug and extend the wire for it to plug into the IAT sensor which is located on the back of the z6 intake manifold, its white. I would see how it runs first. OR depending what intake you are using this might already have a hole for the sensor to go, you will just have to pull it out of the 1.4 intake pipe.

2. Cant figure out which wires go to the purge and the whatever the other sensor is

There should be a plug on the loom that looks pretty similar to the one above that plugs into this, like you say its for the EVAP system, but isn't required.

3. Do these hoses look like there going to the right places?

Yep, looks good to me.

4. Where and what do these connect to?
On the throttle body

4. On the inlet manifold, pretty sure its a water outlet

These two will need to be joined together using some hose, this is for water to circulate around the TB to help with idle, the on on the other side of the TB will need to be connected to the IAVC and the other nipple on the IAVC is to be connected to the hard water pipe at the back of the block.

5. The charcoal canister has this pipe coming off but im not sure where it connect to I cant see any where for it to go

See the attached image for how this runs.

Regards

Ben

 

[Nikster199]

Thank you very much I havent made a lot of progress today but ive started to figure out thr wiring

 

[Nikster199]

OK well at least you got the engine in.

You had to changed 2 of the mounts for what reason? were they damaged? because the z6 should be a straight onto your original mounts, or do you mean because the EG mounts were still on there?



That plug looks like its just an extra from the 1.4 which isn't need on the z6. Just tape up out of the way.



This is for the original intake air temp sensor (IAT) that comes on the 1.4 on the intake pipe, I'm pretty sure this isn't needed BUT might be worth getting a Honda round style plug and extend the wire for it to plug into the IAT sensor which is located on the back of the z6 intake manifold, its white. I would see how it runs first. OR depending what intake you are using this might already have a hole for the sensor to go, you will just have to pull it out of the 1.4 intake pipe.



There should be a plug on the loom that looks pretty similar to the one above that plugs into this, like you say its for the EVAP system, but isn't required.



Yep, looks good to me.





These two will need to be joined together using some hose, this is for water to circulate around the TB to help with idle, the on on the other side of the TB will need to be connected to the IAVC and the other nipple on the IAVC is to be connected to the hard water pipe at the back of the block.



See the attached image for how this runs.

View attachment 31604

Regards

Ben

The mount on the passenger side was different and the rear mount was a bit to long it was out of a del sol I believe

 

[Nikster199]

This pipe had been blocked off, do I need to connect it?

 

[Nikster199]

I have this plug still should I cut it and connect it to the purge solenoid with a round connector? If so how do I know whats the positive and negitive?

 

[Nikster199]

We tried to turn it over bit there was no spark so I guess its cause of the distributor plugs I checked the wires and they seem to match the diagram below, so im confused now
Tried to swap distributors but the mounts are slightly different andcthe bolts don't line up

 

[Nikster199]

D16z6 Distributor plug

 

[Nikster199]

D14z2 harness plug

 

[Nikster199]

Hi Nik,

OK if it is OBD2b then the following will need to be done to your loom.

At the ecu plug 'B' move pin B6 to the empty B23 location. Then un-pin B15 and tape it up out of the way, this wont be needed, but the pin itself could be useful so this may need cutting off.
I'm not sure if you have any spare plugs that you will be using for the extra loom sections needed but if not spade connectors would do.

On your original IAVC plug it will have 3 wires and the plug will be an oval shape, you need to unpin the wires from it and tape the orange one up out the way as this wont be needed. If you do have a round style plug for the vtec IAVC then you will need to pin the other two wires into it, the yellow and black wire will need to be at the top (where the release is on the plug)

Next up is the vtec wires.
Knock sensor will be first, on the ecu plug 'C' you will need to put a pin into location C3 then with a length of wire put it through the bulk head and either connect or original Honda round style plug (if you have spares) or use a spade connector and connect it the the knock sensor which is loacted at the top of the block slightly to the left just above the water hard pipe.

Nect is vtec pressure switch (this will only need to be done if your vtec solenoid has a round style connector on the side of it.
As per the knock sensor, on the ecu plug 'C' you will need to put a pin into location C10 and again running the wire through the bulk head and again if you have an original Honda round style plug attach it to this or your spade connector, the vtec pressure switch will also need to be earthed (i usually do it to where the original earth is on the gearbox but it is entirely up to you where it goes. Again I think the positive from the ecu will need to be at the top of the plug (where the release is) and the earth on the bottom but not 100% sure on this but trial and error is the way, if vtec doesn't work try swapping them over.

Next is the vtec solenoid.
On the ecu plug 'B' you will need to put a pin into location B12 and as before run it through the bulk head and to the vtec solenoid, like the knock sensor this is only one wire so pretty simple.

If you do all this and the car doesn't start (which it should if ecu is from a UK car) then you will need to switch the pins on ecu plug 'A' for the fuel pump relay. Swap the pin from location A16 to A15, this will solve your problem.

I have attached this image to make things easier for you.
View attachment 31580

If you need any more help just let me know.

Regards

Ben

Also my d14 ecu plugs didn't have a pin for the knock sensor so I used another plug I had under the inlet manifold (thought it was a knock sensor) to use as a vtec wire (i used a multimeter to check it was the right pin)

 

[Nikster199]

Okay got it to run by switching the d16z6 distributor internal with my old d14z2 (not as hard as I thought it would be) and runs okayish.
Main problem is the idle is iradic between 1500rpm and 2000rpm (even in gears, it shakes the car) its fine everywhere else in the Rev range and vtec works fine.
I cleaned the fast idle valve, made hardly any difference and I put the white screw part all the way back. I did Clean the Iacv before the engine went. Any one have any ideas?
Engine management light is on as well
Ill try to upload a video

 

[Nikster199]

Bad video but ignore the tapping I haven't adjusted the valve clearances you can hear the idle at the beginning, ill get a better video tomorrow

 

[Nikster199]

My friend was following me to the petrol station and said it sometimes sparks out the exhaust (could it be the cat?) and its smoking (exhaust is black)???