Cylinder head re-fitted but have a few problems


killa_vtec said:
Thanks for the input everyone appreciate it :)

Gorbash thanks for the link mate, I need a crank pulley tool to get it off so I can make sure its in line with the markings behind it.

Im gonna go and see if I can do anything about the oil leaking through the head gasket, I can't do much about the timing without the crank pulley tool :(
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you don't need to remove the crank pulley at all unless your changing the belt as the crank iirc has a woodruff key on it meaning that it will only fit in the correct position so the white marking on the crank pulley pointing to the marking on the timing belt cover will always mark tdc. you don't need anything else to line up the bottom end.

killa_vtec said:
**Update**

I checked the timing and made sure the white mark on the crank pulley was in line with the marking on the cover.

I noticed that the cam pulleys were ever so slightly off TDC so I to the belt off and lined up the cam pulleys, I found the the up marks were facing up however the TDC groves ( as pictured up) were not lining up although the up marks were dead centre facing the sky...

I put the belt back on and tried starting the car, it DID start this time however it sounded very rough and then cut it self off after a few seconds...
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make sure that when you let the belt tensioner back down again that the cams and/or the bottom end don't move as it takes up the tension. took me a couple of goes to get it right.

have you checked and adjusted the valve clearances? that'd be my first port of call then carry out the compression test again and see what you get (should give you an idea of wether there is still a leakage problem.
try putting a very small amount of oil down the spark plug holes and see if this helps. and while the spark plugs are out give them a good clean and check the gaps

was their any unusual sucking noises when it started?? if so check for an air leak between the throttle body and the cylinder head

if the compression is fine check that your distributor is lined up correctly. (did you mark it's position before removing it? if not retard it's ignition as far back as possible and try to start the car while moving it a little bit at a time (if the engine isn't running a timing light is no use) usually the car will start regardless of where this is as it's adjustment range is quite small but it's worth a try.

hth
 
Its actually very easy to put the Headgasket on the wrong way as it does fit the wrong way round! If it sounds rough after setting up the timing correctly and starting then its possible the head gasket will be on the wrong way due to the oil feed holes being blocked/covered.
 
Im pretty sure I put the head gasket the correct way round, I know this because when looking your engine on the left hand side where the head joins the block you can see the marking on the head gasket..

I think the leak is down to the head bolts i've re-used my old ones so the torque must be out... Im in the process of undoing them slightly and then re-torque them..
 
killa_vtec said:
Im pretty sure I put the head gasket the correct way round, I know this because when looking your engine on the left hand side where the head joins the block you can see the marking on the head gasket..

I think the leak is down to the head bolts i've re-used my old ones so the torque must be out... Im in the process of undoing them slightly and then re-torque them..
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i thought they where stretch bolts? not a good idea re-using them anyway. did you replace the head gasket? if thats the case did you make sure that you cleaned out the head bolt threads i.e. no oil or coolant in the bottom of them to hydraulic and stop the bolt before it is fully tightened down?
 
Some good news finally :)

After grafting all day on the car it's now starting and running fine (hopefully) I even got the crank pulley bolt off so changed the timing belt, tensioner and water pump with some trusty Honda parts...

It seems the timing was out as thats what I made sure to check when putting it back after changing the belt.

I still need to do the valve clearances which should be sorted tommorow after I finish work.

I also checked the head bolt were torqued down properly which they were.

I'm going to see if the leaking stops over the next few days (maybe the head gasket needs to reach temperature for it to seal?) if not I guess I'll be ordering some new head studs.

I've been told that if I un-do the head bolts I would have to change the head gasket! is this true?

@Gorbash - Yes I did clean the threads on both the head bolts and the hole in which is goes down with a cloth and after spending the last few days searching on various different forums and sites the majority of people have said that Honda head bolts are stretch bolts and can't be re-used so this could be my problem? but saying that someone I know has re-used his head bolts and he didnt seem to have any problems... i'll keep an eye on it for the next few days and see if it stops if not like I said i'll purchase some new Honda bolts but need to know if I would need to change the head gasket again even though it's brand new!
 
every time the head comes off you should change the bolts and gasket. it's not a good idea to ever re-use a head gasket and not changing cylinder head stretch bolts is not a good idea. best getting yourself a set of arp's as that way they can be re-used time and again (tends to save money in the long run)

hth
 
I had the head skimmed and the block I just cleaned with a cloth...

I did a compression test earlier here are the results

Cylinder 1 - 210psi
Cylinder 2 200psi
Cylinder 3 230 psi
Cylinder 4 230 psi

I havent set the valve clearences yet, I noticed when on idle the engine was jumping almost as if it was misfiring :( could this be because of the valve clearence or maybe the timing has come out again?
 
Played around with the valve clearences setting them to .006 intake .007 exhaust startered her up and noticed it was a little tappety, did a compression test results were as follows

Cylinder 1 - 260 psi
cylinder 2 - 240psi
cylinder 3 - 270psi
cylinder 4 - 250psi

so setting the valve clearence it has incresed the compression, surely once the head gasket leak is sorted that should help the compression even more?
 
killa_vtec said:
Played around with the valve clearences setting them to .006 intake .007 exhaust startered her up and noticed it was a little tappety, did a compression test results were as follows

Cylinder 1 - 260 psi
cylinder 2 - 240psi
cylinder 3 - 270psi
cylinder 4 - 250psi

so setting the valve clearence it has incresed the compression, surely once the head gasket leak is sorted that should help the compression even more?
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wow 270 and 260 is high but yeah that looks better. guess it was just the valve clearances dropping the compression. give it a run then leave it overnight and re-do the clearances when it's totally cold in the morning that way any movement in the valves seating should be sorted.
if its just an oil leak it's unlikely to affect your compression. is it still leaking since you re-torqued the headbolts?? if so get some pictures up of where it's coming from
 
Ok guys just had a look at the bay and to my suprise the leak seems to have stopped! I clean the area where it was leaking last night with some brake cleaner and wipes it untill it was bone dry, so that I could see how much it was leaking.

Come outisde to check it and it's still dry! I do still have a leak down the cam pulley side but im pretty sure thats down to the cam seals as its dripping from around that area and not the head gasket side.... confused? yes so am I lol!

Im just in the process of flushing the coolant and i'll be monitoring if there is any oil mixture in the water system should I look out for any thing else?
 
You will not see a leak when its not running, check it after you run it up to temp.
 
where it was leaking from
2011-06-22183158.jpg

2011-06-22183216.jpg


Area suspected cam seal leak
2011-06-22183229.jpg
 
**Update**

Result 1
It seems the leaking has sorted it self out been a couple of days and it's not leaked

Result 2
Did the valve clearences again, and now im getting 250psi compression on all 4 cylinders

Result 3
The timing is now spot on starts and drives as it should

Problem 1
I noticed i'm getting a puff of clear white smoke on over run?
 
Still no leak :)

Not loosing any water and no over heating

The car pulls strong

Only issue now is the puff of white smoke any idea's?
 
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