Stroke me baby


koruptEK9

koruptEK9

New Member
Joined
May 31, 2007
Messages
444
Right, after MUCH research into turbo's, chargers, ITB's etc, i have decided that when the cash becomes available. i will get a spoon stroker kit. Right so with that SET in stone, heres the questions:

1. Will i need an ECU upgrade (powerfc, hondata etc)
2. will Vtec still be as agressive
3. how much of the kit should i use (someone said leave stock pistons??)
4. can i still have vtec @ 6200rpm and a 8.5-9krpm rev limit
5. i have j's intake, 4-2-1 stainless with 2.5" collector, Decat & exhaust, what other NECESSARY things do i need to make it a good/successfull installation?

Thanks

Craig:drive:
 
1. yes
2. yes even more agressive
3. which pistons you use depends on your desired compression ratio, you will be 12.75 with ctr pistons and 11.32 with the ITR pistons this is assuming you keep the stock headgasket.
4. yes but you may want to lower it a few hundred rpm's its all in the tune and the tuner will know best.
5. thats all you really need, if your clutch is old upgrade that, perhaps a clutchmasters stage III :nice:
 
blinx, your a leg-end LOL, ummm the dumb bit, is a higher comp bad..please explain:nice:
 
How about the throttle body?

I think the B16B has a smaller throttle body 2mm less.
 
SpoonCTR said:
How about the throttle body?

I think the B16B has a smaller throttle body 2mm less.
Click to expand...

good point, i forget about that, im sure the b16b TB will be ok for now, but something like a 65 or 68 would be a nice choice, professional products TB'r are excellent and can be found for about $125

koruptEK9 said:
blinx, your a leg-end LOL, ummm the dumb bit, is a higher comp bad..please explain:nice:
Click to expand...

it depends how good your tuner is and what octane fuel you prefer to use regularly.. higher compression is harder to tune, puts more stress on the engine, requires higher octane fuel but makes more power.
 
Just get a B18C and sell the B16B. Much easier because you have to take out the engine anyway. And you'll end up paying just for the labour. Much cheaper.

Also another note is, SPOON stroker kit is no longer available. Whoever selling it to you might not be honest. SPOON uses OEM B18C parts which are fully balanced from factory.
 
What is your budget, and what is it specifically you are trying to achieve (bhp bragging rights, acceleration, speed etc etc)?

It just comes down to what you want, and, as a community, we can help you to make a better informed decision whilst at the same time saving you money if you provide us with these details.

I'm sure most people on here will know my take on the "best modifications" side of things, but I'm not biased (honestly :p).
 
MFactory said:
What is your budget, and what is it specifically you are trying to achieve (bhp bragging rights, acceleration, speed etc etc)?

It just comes down to what you want, and, as a community, we can help you to make a better informed decision whilst at the same time saving you money if you provide us with these details.

I'm sure most people on here will know my take on the "best modifications" side of things, but I'm not biased (honestly :p).
Click to expand...

I want,

1. to keep the B16B (B18 Engine swap is out of the Q)
2. REAL accelration whilst maintaining a half decent top speed (135-140+mph)
3. dont really need to brag HP if i decimate all
4. that said 200Hp + would be nice LOL
5. Reliability
 
1) No need to touch your engine
2) REAL Acceleration guaranteed, with top speed approx. 133mph @ 8400 rpm in 5th Gear
3) Your bhp will remain the same, but DC2's, DC5's and EP3's will have a very hard time keeping up, and you will decimate a stock EK4/EK9.
4) In the real world, 200hp is not that much different from 185hp. It's the torque that counts.
5) No modifications done at all to your engine. Reliability will actually be increased.

The main question is, can you handle doing 4400rpm @ 70mph (stock is around 3800rpm)?
 
jugbugz said:
Also another note is, SPOON stroker kit is no longer available. Whoever selling it to you might not be honest. SPOON uses OEM B18C parts which are fully balanced from factory.
Click to expand...

thats right, but... our sister company called "u save auto" imports OEM parts direct from Japan once a week so we can still supply some of the parts needed :nice:
 
Thats nice to know :) How would the costs compare to the discontinued Spoon kit though?
 
MFactory said:
4) In the real world, 200hp is not that much different from 185hp. It's the torque that counts.

The main question is, can you handle doing 4400rpm @ 70mph (stock is around 3800rpm)?
Click to expand...

Good point, thats why he wants to stroke the motor for more torque.

What gears are you suggesting?
 
Don't need to touch the engine to get more torque, as long as he can stay within his requirements, which is 130ish mph top speed, and is achievable with a 1.000 5th Gear. For 3rd/4th, again, just depends on his requirements.

A Close Gear Set + Installation = A LOT cheaper than a Stroker Kit + Accessories + Installation

A B16B + Close Gear Set = A LOT faster acceleration than a B16B + Stroker Kit

However, a B16B + Stroker Kit + Close Gear Set is even better :)
 
Faster than B18C????!! You joking?

hmmm, I'm interested. Could you fill in on more details and pricing?

I've got 4.785FD atm with stock gears. Still have my 4.4 in the box.

Sorry if I hi-jacked this thread... :)
 
A lot of our customers had done a lot of NA modifications to their vehicles (Cams, Pistons, ITB's, Headers, Exhausts etc etc) as well as installing a Close Ratio Gear set, and all of them state that if they had to do it all again, they wouldn't even bother touching the engine again as the gears alone offer bigger performance improvement over all the rest of the modifications combined. And cheaper to boot :)

If you don't mind the lower top speed, 4.785 works extremely well with the close gear set.
 
Yes I don't mind. What top speed you suggesting it'd go down to? There isn't much difference with 4.7 and 4.4 top speed anyway. Like 5-10kmph?

I did think about using taller 1st and 2nd gearing, but that might slow down the 0-100kmph acceleration.

So, what have you got in mind for me?
 
213km/h vs 196km/h

If you do standing starts (be it Drag, Track or Traffic Lights), a longer 1st gear is a good idea as it brings 1st and 2nd closer together.

With a close ratio gear set, not only do you get the benefits of torque multiplication, but you also stay in the powerband due to lower rpm drops between shifting.

Please feel free to play around with our Gearing Calculator to get a feel for the different ratios and settings :)
 
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